Wyatt's Rear Bulkhead Horror:
Even though I torque tested all Rolok bolts on the rear bulkhead according to a Foretravel bulletin, and even though I was visually inspecting the rear bulkhead on a regular basis, the last inspection on 2014 August 25th revealed that twelve of the seventeen rear bulkhead Rolok bolts had failed. There was a one inch gap between the angle iron and the body at the driver side rear suspension mount and a half inch gap at the passenger side rear suspension mount. The angle iron had been morphed from straight into a serpentine track. The rear bulkhead joint was about to fail completely. I spent the next four days replacing all 5/16 Rolok bolts with 3/8 Grade five bolts with nuts (and washers). I followed Brett Wolfe's procedure but did drill the 1 3/8 access holes closer to the 1.5 inch square tubing then Brett suggested. I was able, with considerable effort/time, to remove all rusted Rolok bolts and did not drill any new holes.
I will soon be doing the same replacements on the front bulkhead because I no longer trust the ability of the 5/16 Rolok bolts to hold for many years in such an unfriendly and dynamic environment.
Ramblings of a mechanical mind.
Here are some thoughts from a Professional Mechanical Engineer. Some folks have indicated that they believe using a Grade 8 bolt in the bulkhead is better than using a Grade 5 bolt. I do not agree with this, even though a Grade 8 bolt is clearly stronger than a Grade 5 bolt. I believe 3/8 inch Grade 5 bolts are the best choice for replacing the 5/16 inch Rolok bolts because: a 3/8 Grade 5 bolt is stronger and provides more clamping force than the 5/16 Rolok; a Grade 5 bolt will permanently deform at 135% of working tension while a Grade 8 bolt will permanently deform at 115% of working tension, so a Grade 5 bolt will better tolerate jerk loads, a Grade 8 bolt will suffer hydrogen embrittlement (leading to a brittle break) much faster than a Grade 5 bolt; applying higher (grade 
clamping forces to the 1.5 inch square tubing may cause the tube to permanently deform (see testing below).
Here is some testing that I did!
I did some testing with a piece of 1.5 inch square tubing in a vise using a 3/8inch Grade 8 bolt with a flared nut, a 3/8 washer, a thick 1/2 inch washer (1.375 OD). I drilled a 3/8 inch hole through the square tube, then lubricated the threads and tightened the bolt to 23 ftlb, 25 ftlb, 30 ftlb and finally 35 foot pounds. After each torque value, I disassembled and examined the square tubing for damage. There was no evidence of permanent deformation at 23 ftlb (3/8 grade 5), or at 25 ftlb, however, at 30 ftlb the sides of the tube were permanently concaved by 2/1000 inch, and at 35 ftlb (3/8 grade concaved by 7/1000 inch.
I removed the aluminum sheet which was badly corroded due to galvanic corrosion. After removing the Rolok bolts, I drilled the 5/16 holes out to 3/8 inch and installed 3/8-16 all thread bolts which were 3 inches long. I tried 2.5 inch bolts but there was only one thread sticking out of the nut. I lubricated the threads and tightened to 250 inch pounds, even though the recommended torque for lubricated 3/8 course thread Grade 5 bolts is 276 inch pounds (23 ftlb).
Note that the recommended torque for a 5/16 Rolok bolt is 21 ftlb dry, while dry torque for a 3/8 grade 5 bolt is 30 ftlb.
Rust jacking was not the cause of the failure of my rear bulkhead. There was little more than surface rust on the angle iron and the square tubing. Two of the Rolok bolts were missing and I presume had fallen out on the road. The heads were broken off other bolts such that five bolts were holding the bulkhead together, three on the passenger side which had previously installed, one in the center and one on the outer driver side. I managed to remove two Rolok bolts without damaging them. I attempted to torque them to 250 inlb but they both just kept turning. The diameter of the Rolok was smaller at the inside wall of the square tubing, perhaps rust had damaged the threads which were no longer capable of tolerating 250 inlb.
Removing the rusted, broken Rolok bolts involved drilling a 9/64 hole in the broken end of the bolts and inserting a broken bolt remover tool. I drilled out the hole in the angle iron with a 3/8 bit and kept drilling until the end of the broken bolt had a center mark. I then drilled into the bolt a quarter inch with a hard bit (expensive). I threaded a 6mm nut onto the inside end of the Rolok and tightened until the rusted threads broke free. I then removed the nut by holding with the easy out. One nut was so tight that I had to cut it with a Dremel to get it off. If the end of the Rolok was very rusty, a 5/16 nut worked, however, if the end of the Rolok was clean, a 5/16 nut did not work. Double nutting also did not work.
Topic: Wyatt's Rear Bulkhead Horror: