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Topic: Shopping for New Inverter (Read 1385 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Shopping for New Inverter

Reply #25 –
Kent and Craig and others all bring up important points.

When I said I wanted a simple "swap new for old" installation, I wondered about the placement of the original inverter.  My coach is just like Kent's - batteries behind the rear wheels, and inverter up in the forward storage bay behind the entry steps.  So I also have a long cable run from batteries to inverter.  If I want to use the existing wiring, I'm stuck with this location.  If I wanted to relocate the inverter, I could possibly shorten the input cables, but would have to reroute the output cables.  I'm not clear where they actually tie into the coach wiring system, so would have to figure that out.  (PS: I'm no electrician - only know enough to be dangerous)

I'm not sure where else I would be able to mount a inverter.  Forward of the batteries is the rear wheels, then the wet bay, then my big center storage bay.  If I moved the inverter to the center bay, it might shorten the input cables by about 5'.  Is that enough to justify the hassle of installing new cables and rerouting the output wiring?  The (new) inverter might fit in the "electrical box" under the bed platform, but there is no ventilation there, plus close to engine heat.  I suppose the inverter could go somewhere underneath the rear end of the coach, but would need a custom mounting shelf and protection from the elements.  Are they weather resistant?

We are presently controlling the inverter manually, using the simple inverter panel next to the kitchen sink.  When I disconnect from shore power, I turn the inverter on to power the residential fridge.  If we want to use the microwave on the road, I turn the inverter off, and start the generator.  When done with generator, I shut it down and turn inverter back on.  When we stop for the night (with hookups), I turn the inverter off and plug into shore power.  I don't have any problem doing things this way, so I would like to retain the same type manual control with the new inverter.  The Samlex has a nice (extra cost) remote control panel that I could mount in place of the OEM panel.  Since my inverter is only "on" when I need it, I am not too worried about no-load idle current draw.

Many things to ponder...  Good thing it's not a emergency, and I have lots of time to figure it out!
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: Shopping for New Inverter

Reply #26 –

Have you looked at the Victron inverters? They offer a pretty wide range of inverter-only pure sine wave type.

I have a 180W pure sine wave Victron inverter. It is very well built.

I also have a Victron battery monitor and also a solar charge controller.

Lately it seems when I'm researching products Victron keeps coming up as the cutting edge, reliable choice. It's a Netherlands company that has been designing and building commercial and marine products for 30 + years.

Might be worth checking out.
2003 GV320 4010

Re: Shopping for New Inverter

Reply #27 –
Quote from: cajk –
When I said I wanted a simple "swap new for old" installation, I wondered about the placement of the original inverter.  My coach is just like Kent's - batteries behind the rear wheels, and inverter up in the forward storage bay behind the entry steps.  So I also have a long cable run from batteries to inverter.  If I want to use the existing wiring, I'm stuck with this location.  If I wanted to relocate the inverter, I could possibly shorten the input cables, but would have to reroute the output cables.  I'm not clear where they actually tie into the coach wiring system, so would have to figure that out.  (PS: I'm no electrician - only know enough to be dangerous)
If your coach is like ours, there is an AC circuit breaker box under the forward end of your bed. That's where the AC ties into the coach's 120vac circuits. So it's quite likely that you could put the inverter in the area under your bed with a short run to the batteries. At least, *I* could do that. But my batteries are located just aft of the mid-entry door so my inverter (along with all the solar stuff) is right above it in what was formerly the home of the build-in vacuum cleaner system.

There are lots of advantages to mounting a "pass through" inverter under the bed; short run to the circuit breakers, easy tie-in to the shore power system, close (in your case) to the batteries.

Craig

1993 U225 36' Unihome GV with PACBRAKE exhaust retarder, Banks Stinger and Solar Panels.
Toad: 1999 Jeep Wrangler 2-door soft-top.

"No one has ever had to evacuate a city because the solar panels broke."

Re: Shopping for New Inverter

Reply #28 –
Morningstar Sure Sine 300 @ +/- $200.00 
Should do the job, unless you need 2.  pc
S/W Houston 95" U320C SE/40' 
Build #4778  Cummins M11
Repairs & Covered RV Parking (BAO)
PPL is close..

Re: Shopping for New Inverter

Reply #29 –
I just went out and looked over my inverter location and mounting.  I was incorrect when I estimated the cable length reduction if I mounted a new inverter in the big center storage bay.  It would actually reduce the cable length (from batteries to inverter) by 50% or more.  That might be worth the extra work!  It looks like the input and output cables all travel through the storage bay cable pan, so it should be possible to simply cut them at the halfway point and make a new connection to the new inverter.  I could make a shelf for the inverter to sit on, which would keep it up out of the way and allow good ventilation.

I'd rather avoid putting the inverter under the bed.  If it makes any noise, it might disturb the sleep of my DW, which would be a bad thing (for me).
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"
 

Re: Shopping for New Inverter

Reply #30 –
Quote from: cajk –
I just went out and looked over my inverter location and mounting.  I was incorrect when I estimated the cable length reduction if I mounted a new inverter in the big center storage bay.  It would actually reduce the cable length (from batteries to inverter) by 50% or more.  That might be worth the extra work!  It looks like the input and output cables all travel through the storage bay cable pan, so it should be possible to simply cut them at the halfway point and make a new connection to the new inverter.  I could make a shelf for the inverter to sit on, which would keep it up out of the way and allow good ventilation.

I'd rather avoid putting the inverter under the bed.  If it makes any noise at all, it might disturb the sleep of my DW, which would be a bad thing (for me).

The layout of your coach will dictate what the best solution is. In my 1993 U235,  there is a closet directly over the battery compartment. I mounted the solar controller and inverter in the closet, then ran the wires from the solar panels straight down to the controller, then straight down from the controller to the batteries. Then I ran the 12 volt supply wires straight up to the inverter and hooked the 110 volt wires coming from the inverter directly to the AC circuit under the closet floor. I, of course, disconnected that AC circuit in the AC panel under the bed.
1993 U225 Build #: 4285
500 Watts Solar
Honda CRV AWD
Former 1981 Foretravel Travco
Retired, Full Time Off Grid Snowbird