Re: Electric motor runs often in main bay... Reply #25 – September 19, 2015, 03:51:07 pm Quote from: Roger & Susan in Home2 – September 19, 2015, 11:22:51 amMoisture collects in the plastic bowl above. As I recall when the pump shuts off the 12v solonoid valve opens and any water collected spits out. Another 12 v thing that is on all the time. It gets hot.It's a N/O (normally open) solenoid, so I think 12V should only be applied it needs to CLOSE, i.e. when the compressor is running. Perhaps, depending on how the fuse or switch is wired in, it may be on whenever the HWH brain commands the compressor to run. In other words, pulling a fuse or turning the switch off may only cut the power to the compressor, but not the signal/power to that purge solenoid. Quote Selected
Re: Electric motor runs often in main bay... Reply #26 – September 19, 2015, 07:32:48 pm Fiddler,Please remember to have power to that compressor when moving slide to deflate slide seal before retracting/extending. I ruined a 18month old slide seal, after growing tired of the noise of compressor. $3600 mistake. AUX compressor must have power before moving that slide!! I now disconnect the wire from compressor, "lower red one" . I stay level for weeks at a time, and just haven't taken time to track down leak. My compressor would always it seemed to come on for several minutes between 2-4 am Grrr David Quote Selected
Re: Electric motor runs often in main bay... Reply #27 – September 19, 2015, 08:58:47 pm Michelle is most likely correct. The 12v closes the solenoid spitter valve when the pump is on. It still gets hot. The 2003 aux pump setup and plumbing is different from the 2001. I will have to crawl into the basement when it is not full to verify.In the 2001 version (not all years work the same way) if the engine air is pressurized (engine on) it will help with the airflow needed to deflate the bladder. When we stop I usually leave the engine run while we pull out the power cord (if needed), turn the key to deflate the bladder and level the coach. When the light comes on I visually check to ensure that the bladder has retracted and then extend the room. It only takes a few minutes. Then turn off the engine. This works whether the aux pump is on or not. I try to remember to engage my user installed on/off switch, most of the time I do. Retracting is sort of the opposite but I do a better job of turning on the pump. Start engine, turn key to deflate, light on, visually check, retract, key off, disconnect power if connected and stow the cord. Double check the tow lights. Ready to go. With no engine air then you must have the aux air pump functioning.We had a valve problem that made it very slow to deflate and then not all the way. HWH said that if there were areas that were not clear that a soapy water spray would lubricate it and reduce the drag on the seal. It worked until we got to HWH to get it fixed. Quote Selected 1 Likes
Re: Electric motor runs often in main bay... Reply #28 – September 20, 2015, 12:52:33 pm Just a short note to add that when I disconnected 12v to the aux pump and then turned the key to test if the bladder would deflate...it did not; but I forgot to say that despite the bladder not deflated, the yellow light nevertheless illuminated. Drew the conclusion that the yellow light just signals that the locks have disengaged. Yes it's important to always check that the bladder is deflated B4 extending. Sorry to hear of your $3,600 painful learning experience, David My next task is to see if there's any leaks around the pump; bowl? lines; solenoid ? BTW where's the power feed to that element that's heating up?On the road to the outer banks bluegrass festival; I'll check that purge solenoid and try to resume this project when I get back. Quote Selected
Re: Electric motor runs often in main bay... Reply #29 – September 20, 2015, 04:48:57 pm On your version the yellow light is on a timer but on the next version it is based on vacuum. Yes if you have the 12 volt off you can not deflate the bladders. Quote Selected
Re: Electric motor runs often in main bay... Reply #30 – September 21, 2015, 12:31:19 am Fiddler, our coach was built about same time as you and Roger. Send me pm if want to talk, i have too much experience with the aux compressor. Couple comments...I think the venturi to deflate the slide bladder may come from the third air tank, not directly from the aux compressor running. You can find a thread i began about how to work around the aux compressor if it does fail to be putting air into that third air tank. Good to know in an emergency if the aux totally failed. Maybe others can correct me on how that air flows to create the venturi.You and i have an older, smaller aux compressor that coachs built nit ling after our models, It is not intended to run a long time. Mine usually will build third tank pressure back to normal in no more than five minutes. In recent trip that time became very extended, to about three run times of five minutes. I suspect a leak. I avoided overheating by turning off via my added switch, much better for me than pulling the fuse.I had a failure of a check valve that caused my aux compressor to try to air up the two main brake air tanks. That caused it to run so long as would probably cause it to fail. I could tell it was misbehaving when i noticed the two dash air gauges very slowly adding psi as the aux ran (coach parked).i think you have gotten what you need by all the responses in this thread but if still need to talk to me or others , send pm.MikeMike Quote Selected
Topic: Electric motor runs often in main bay...