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Topic: Yacht Fridge VS Residential Fridge (Read 1952 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Yacht Fridge VS Residential Fridge

Reply #25 –
From Peter..."I looked up the Vitrifrigo DP2600 on Bay Marine Supply and the rated power consumption is 65 watts..." And at 8.1 cu ft is is smaller than the Dometic we had and less than 1/2 of the size of the Samsung.

When we had our coach inspected they said the AGS did not work, but it does.  If I am concerned about power I turn it on when we go to bed.  Sometimes it will start at six AM or so.  Often it does not.

Paul the auto gen start is nice.  If you,are normally at places where you are  plugged in then the res refrig is a great addition. You do need to watch power levels.  A really good power monitoring system (apoer in and out and state of charge) is worth investing in as well.
Roger Engdahl and Susan Green
2001 U320 3610 #5879 (Home2) - 2014 Jeep Cherokee or 2018 F150
Hastings, MN

Re: Yacht Fridge VS Residential Fridge

Reply #26 –
Not many answers to the original question. Some good info I'm sure for some though.
Dave W. (AKA Toyman )
'03, 270, 36', Build 6095, Pulling whatever I hook it to.

"Don't cry because it's over. Smile because it happened."
Dr Seuss

Re: Yacht Fridge VS Residential Fridge

Reply #27 –
Original question ....

Quote from: toyman –
I see the thread about yacht type refers, and as I am considering installing a residential type in my FT..... What (besides the 12V operation) are the pluses and minuses of either ? I have had a boat, yet didn't think of using that type of refer. I have a feeling that the yacht type MAY be better constructed to handle the motion? Looks like a good alternative to me.

"Not many answers to the original question. Some good info I'm sure for some though."

Residential Refrigerators use more power than an LP refrgierator. Just a little bit more than a marine refrig.  Most Residential refrigerators are much bigger than Marine refrigerators. Residential refrigerators weigh 1/2 of what the LP refrigerator weighs. Either of these have almost no chance of a fire.  Residential refrigerators have been used in coaches for a long time.  Buy an extended warranty if you are worried.  Residential refrigerators are about 1/2 to cost or less of a marine refrigerator.

Either is a great choice.  Your needs for space, price, power will make the decision for you.

All of this has been in earlier posts, what other questions do you have? 
Roger Engdahl and Susan Green
2001 U320 3610 #5879 (Home2) - 2014 Jeep Cherokee or 2018 F150
Hastings, MN

Re: Yacht Fridge VS Residential Fridge

Reply #28 –
Quote from: Roger & Susan in Home2 –
Original question ....

"Not many answers to the original question. Some good info I'm sure for some though."

 Residential refrigerators have been used in coaches for a long time.  Buy an extended warranty if you are worried.  Residential refrigerators are about 1/2 to cost or less of a marine refrigerator.

Either is a great choice.  Your needs for space, price, power will make the decision for you.

All of this has been in earlier posts, what other questions do you have?

I have mentioned before Foretravel put a residential refrigerator in my 1981 from the factory. I used it for 18 years with no problems. They have been in motorhomes for a very long time.
1999 40 ft. U-320 wtfe build 5563 Chuck & Lynda's "Rollin' Inn"  2030 watts solar
prev. mh's 71 GMC 5 yrs. 73 Pace Setter 1 yr. 78 Vogue 5 yrs 81 FTX 40ft all electric 18 yrs. 1996 Monaco Signature 3 yrs.
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland
Dream as if you will live forever. Live as if you will die today.  James Dean

Re: Yacht Fridge VS Residential Fridge

Reply #29 –
Quote from: toyman –
Not many answers to the original question. Some good info I'm sure for some though.
Dave,

You asked for the "...pluses and minuses..." of both type fridges.  Seems, to me, like you have gotten many excellent answers to your question.  There are more replies pertaining to residential models, because there are more of them in service.  Those with the marine type units have tried to point out the differences, and advantages of that choice.  If you are looking for a direct, side-by-side comparison, I don't think you will find it here.  But you should now have a good understanding of why some members picked one type over the other.  Like so many other things, it will ultimately be a personal choice based on your unique needs and wants (and the size of your discretionary fund).

The residential model is popular, simply because it works so well.  Depending on your handy man skills, it can also be relatively inexpensive.  With so many units already successfully surviving in RVs, I don't think questions of reliability should trouble you.

If you are a "Tekkie", then the marine type technology might call to you.  Several members are reporting total satisfaction with these models, so once again it appears to be a safe choice.  Pure 12 volt power seems, to me, much more logical if you intend to spend a lot of time dry camping.  Without a shore connection, battery conservation assumes greater importance.  Why run 12 volt through a expensive inverter simply to power a fridge, when you can just as easily power the fridge directly off the battery?

Bottom line: both types of fridge keep stuff cold, so just pick the one that works for you.
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: Yacht Fridge VS Residential Fridge

Reply #30 –
Not related to the exact question posted but the heart interface manual mentions running the batteries between 50% to 90% as the gen run time is prohibitively expensive and noisy for most to get from 90% to 100%.

For the longer cycle life I opted for mk gels.

I think the agms are ten percent roughly higher capacity than the gels with a bit less low temp power and 1/2 the cycle life.

As the batteries age the extra initial capacity should match the gels in a few years?

The gels would seem to be able to stay closer to their new specs in hard use for longer.

Mk's engineer mentioned the latest gels might have double the cycle life shown. 

Minimum of four 8d's and/or a lot of solar for any electric refer. 

And a more effecient inverter?

Original  systems were not designed for this much draw and to be able to dry camp for a few days on internal capacities without running the gen.

All changes with double the electrical draw. 

Unless like a lot you do not mind the gen or camp pole to pole.








"Riding and rejoicing"
Bob
1997 U320 40' Mid entry, build 5132,  wtbi ce27, 4th owner
2007 Solara convertible
2 prodeco tech outlaw ss electric bikes

1095 watts solar
08 Ls 460 and a sc430
2000 Ford F-250 superduty 4x4

Re: Yacht Fridge VS Residential Fridge

Reply #31 –
I went out and clamped a DC clamp-on Amp meter onto the wires going to my two compressors.  This is a custom built Sea Freeze unit with a compressor for the refrigerator and a compressor for the freezer.

The refrigerator compressor was running at the time, drawing 4.5A, nominally 54 Watts at 12 Volts.  This would be double had both compressors been running.  I don't know the duty cycles, but the freezer compressor rarely runs and the refrigerator compressor fairly often runs. 

I believe this compares favorably with a residential refrigerator, even with a very efficient inverter.
Tom Lang K6PG (originally  KC6UEC)
and Diane Lang
2003 38 U295 build 6209
2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee Summit Ecodiesel
still have tow-ready 2006 Acura MDX 
Temple City, California
Motorcade 16681 California Chapter President
SKP 16663 member of SKP Park of the Sierra, Coarsegold California
FMCA F071251
Retired electrical and electronic engineer
 

Re: Yacht Fridge VS Residential Fridge

Reply #32 –
Thanks Tom, I have been using 12.5 volts as a nominal, more in the typlcal voltage range.  Do you have a battery monitor system like a Victron or one like it.  With the batteries charged and not other power input and "everything" off including the refrigerator (but cold) it will tell you the voltage and the amp-hrs pulled from the battery.  Turn on just the refrigerator and nothing else.  Come back several hours later, maybe a day and see how many amp-hrs have been pulled.  The difference gives you a pretty good idea of the average power consumption over time. Exactly what we need to make a good marine refrig to Residential refrig comparison. 

We need someone to do the same with an Lp refrig at steady state to see what 12v power it uses.

Duty cycle is important.  I can see very small differences in power usage during the day compared to overnight when it is cooler.
Roger Engdahl and Susan Green
2001 U320 3610 #5879 (Home2) - 2014 Jeep Cherokee or 2018 F150
Hastings, MN