Skip to main content
Topic: Lets talk Alternators  (Read 711 times) previous topic - next topic

Lets talk Alternators

On my way to get my living room bladder fixed the check engine light came on a few times and went of. Almost to my destination I get check engine watning, shut down warning, ABS warning and start to lose my gauges. Alternator was at about 10.5 most the way and then it dropped to 6 and to 0.

I have an Elvac E102200 model. Is there another one I can track down? To swap it out with? Anyone familiar with this one? Found one on ebay for about 150$ shipped.. or should I just buy that one.. I think I ate up my 2 yellow optima batteries I just got a month ago for the chassis..

2nd note .. is it possible that on my last trip that I lost a battery it could have overcharged it (on the house side)?

thanks

Re: Lets talk Alternators

Reply #1
All the alarms sound like low battery Start generator and put on boost switch to charge batteries assp. ( if plugged in just turn on boost switch if charger portion of investor is on) Once chassis batteries are charged you can drive a long way to get your alternator fixed
Tim Fiedler    2025 LTV Unity MBL on Order
2000 Chevy Tracker 2 Door Convertible 4WD Now lifted 4.5"
1985 Citroen 2CV6 Charleston
Murphy Rebel on wheels with 175HP Titan
Cessna P337
1980 48' Westport MY (!/4 Share)

Re: Lets talk Alternators

Reply #2
All the alarms sound like low battery Start generator and put on boost switch to charge batteries assp. ( if plugged in just turn on boost switch if charger portion of investor is on) Once chassis batteries are charged you can drive a long way to get your alternator fixed
had the boost on all the way and I was 5 miles from the rv place I was headed... hooked up the battery charger trying to get it to crank and it wouldnt turn over after charging for about an hour and a half.. went and bought 2 new yelow tops and drove the rest of the way... stuck on the I-15 for 2hrs is no fun

Re: Lets talk Alternators

Reply #3
To follow up on Tim's excellent suggestion, do NOT attempt to drive with chassis battery voltage (dash gauge) below 12.0 VDC.  You have way too many computer-controlled things (little things like engine and transmission to start with) that are in harm's way on low voltage.

And, boost on without generator running (to power the inverter/charger) will not keep the batteries up if the alternator is not working.

A more permanent short term fix (ya, I know, that sounds funny) is to mechanically connect the batteries when using the generator/inverter-charger to keep up the batteries.  The battery isolator is a good place to do this, as is the boost solenoid.  Just mark and then remove the cable going to one set of batteries and ADD them to the lug with cable going to the other set of batteries.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Lets talk Alternators

Reply #4
Boost should have worked
Tim Fiedler    2025 LTV Unity MBL on Order
2000 Chevy Tracker 2 Door Convertible 4WD Now lifted 4.5"
1985 Citroen 2CV6 Charleston
Murphy Rebel on wheels with 175HP Titan
Cessna P337
1980 48' Westport MY (!/4 Share)

Re: Lets talk Alternators

Reply #5

What I am thinking is that the alternator put a hurting on the batteries last outing... batteries died and wouldnt fully keep a charge and they gave up.. sound about right?

I read about Leece Neville alternators.. are they the same? I seen a write up in the forum about those.. would I be able to use that same method for replacement?

Re: Lets talk Alternators

Reply #6

A more permanent short term fix (ya, I know, that sounds funny) is to mechanically connect the batteries when using the generator/inverter-charger to keep up the batteries.  The battery isolator is a good place to do this, as is the boost solenoid.  Just mark and then remove the cable going to one set of batteries and ADD them to the lug with cable going to the other set of batteries.

Now that is thinking outside the box... that one never dawned on me.. Great suggestion

Re: Lets talk Alternators

Reply #7
So this morning I started the coach (after charging the new batteries all night to a full charge.. the Volt gauge red like 10.5v (charge or charging) (not sure). How can I tell if its the alternator or the voltage regulator or if its actually the alternator itself?

Also Question still remains if anyone knows if I can swap the alternator with another brand (type) .. like in the other forum topics

help! broken down! Alternator Issues reply #136

I also rigged up a battery charger to run while I drive.. I think the settings are 2. 10. 25.
should be ok to run on 25 with genny? since the genny needs to be on for the air anyway..

Re: Lets talk Alternators

Reply #8
Your alternator should be putting 13.8 v or more to the start batteries through your OEM diode based isolator.  On the alternator side it should be about 1 volt higher.

If your new batteries charged properly over night and they are reading 10.5 v after starting then you are probably getting nothing from the alternator.  It could be the alternator or the isolator and any of many possible bad connections. Best to find out what is going on before throwing money at it.  Put the batteries back on the charger. 10.5 v is not good.

I recently swapped my Leece Neville alternator out for a 240 amp Delco Remy Brushless alternator.  Massive improvement.

Delco 40si 240 Amp Alternator, Sterling ProSplitR Installation
Roger Engdahl and Susan Green
2001 U320 3610 #5879 (Home2) - 2014 Jeep Cherokee or 2018 F150
Hastings, MN

Re: Lets talk Alternators

Reply #9

And, boost on without generator running (to power the inverter/charger) will not keep the batteries up if the alternator is not working.

plus boost on without generator running (or shore power plugged in and charging) will drain down both sets of batteries.
Learn every day, but especially from the experiences of others. It's cheaper!  - John C. Bogle

2000 U320 36' non-slide / WildEBeest Rescue
2003 U320

Re: Lets talk Alternators

Reply #10
Had a similar problem last month before trip.One of the red top start batteries had a weak cell.Replaced both start batteries.
96 U270 BUILD 4810
85 380SL
Drummonds TN.

Re: Lets talk Alternators

Reply #11

"I think I ate up my 2 yellow optima batteries I just got a month ago for the chassis."

My understanding is that all 320 units used 3 batteries, whats up with the 2 here ? or is this the NEW Foretravel practice like the small engined coaches ?

Re: Lets talk Alternators

Reply #12
"I think I ate up my 2 yellow optima batteries I just got a month ago for the chassis."

My understanding is that all 320 units used 3 batteries, whats up with the 2 here ? or is this the NEW Foretravel practice like the small engined coaches ?


Mine had 3 deep cell batteries when I got it.. I put in 2 yellow tops and they worked great..then they started lagging when I tried starting the last couple times.. so I think this alternator has been a problem for a little while

Re: Lets talk Alternators

Reply #13
A good alternator is cheaper by far than a set of batteries.  Find out what is going on before you cook any more.
Roger Engdahl and Susan Green
2001 U320 3610 #5879 (Home2) - 2014 Jeep Cherokee or 2018 F150
Hastings, MN

Re: Lets talk Alternators

Reply #14
Mine had 3 deep cell batteries when I got it.. I put in 2 yellow tops and they worked great..then they started lagging when I tried starting the last couple times.. so I think this alternator has been a problem for a little while

An  m11 requires 2200 CCA's I remember reading.  Two batteries are a little less than that I think.

Cold weather starts might be harder
"Riding and rejoicing"
Bob
1997 U320 40' Mid entry, build 5132,  wtbi ce27, 4th owner
2007 Solara convertible
2 prodeco tech outlaw ss electric bikes

1095 watts solar
08 Ls 460 and a sc430
2000 Ford F-250 superduty 4x4

Re: Lets talk Alternators

Reply #15
An  m11 requires 2200 CCA's I remember reading.  Two batteries are a little less than that I think.

Cold weather starts might be harder


Yep, two start batteries will only give about 1600 amps for starting. Cummins wanted 2200, that's why the M11 engined coaches came with three batteries.
John Duld
1995 U320C SE 40'

 

Re: Lets talk Alternators

Reply #16
I did not replace my LN as the system as designed and sold seems to have a very reliable long life.

I think it was mentioned that 13.6 volts while not the technical limit of the batteries ability to take power into them for recharging tends to maybe not damage the batteries over long drives.

My guru buddy does install three stage voltage regulators for the alternator changing which then matches the inverter/chargers profile.

My dash gauge shows lower than the Audit or silverleaf which are at 13.6-13.7 normally.

Seen many Rv batteries overcharged in the old Rv days so I hesitate to push our systems alternator charging voltage too high.

the 1/5 C (capacity)charge rate seems pretty std around the boat and Rv industry and matches what Foretravel installed.

A fourth 8g8d would have me increase the alternators output by 25% although.

Engine batteries are rarely down much and my buddy installed a 20amp automatic non weather proof but sealed battery charging  crossover system to charge them anytime the solar panels are inputting power to the house side.

because of a small wire from the refer to the house batteries there is a one volt drop from the panels controller to the house batteries.

Works out as it results in 13.6 volts charging.

As was posted here and repeated many times more voltage to the batteries is readily available but so far my uses and battery quantity and condition and type has not had me think of a higher voltage charging setting in the system. 



"Riding and rejoicing"
Bob
1997 U320 40' Mid entry, build 5132,  wtbi ce27, 4th owner
2007 Solara convertible
2 prodeco tech outlaw ss electric bikes

1095 watts solar
08 Ls 460 and a sc430
2000 Ford F-250 superduty 4x4