Re: Torque rod bushings Reply #26 – August 30, 2016, 11:29:41 pm Can you use a come-along to move the axle? Quote Selected
Re: Torque rod bushings Reply #27 – August 30, 2016, 11:32:02 pm The bolt length is not the problem - he can't get the bolt holes in the bracket and in one end of the rod to line up. Quote Selected
Re: Torque rod bushings Reply #28 – August 31, 2016, 01:58:45 am You can put a hydraulic bottle jack on the H frame near the rear air spring on the side where the trailing arm holes don't line up with the mounting points. When the jack pushes down on the rear of the H frame, it will rotate the carrier so that the trailing link gets pushed towards the front of the coach. I used this technique when I needed to push the bulkhead joint together while doing my bulkhead/basement rebuild. Think of the H frame as a sort of teeter totter. You could do the same thing if you could add air to just one of a pair of air springs (or let air out of just one of a pair) at each end of the axle. In case it isn't self explanatory, what I am calling the H frame is the steel framing that carries the axle and has the lower attachment points for the air springs and shocks, and is a unique property of the 8 outboard air spring design that was invented by Foretravel. There is corresponding framing above that is part of the structure of the coach chassis and is where the bottle jack can push against.Don Quote Selected 2 Likes
Re: Torque rod bushings Reply #29 – September 09, 2016, 03:20:04 pm Finally finished the 3 rear bottom torque rods,will post pictures of old bushings.Had to cut 2 bolts twice to remove one rod.Hadto use ratchet strap to reassemble.Anyone attempting this please contact me will walk you thru procedure.Got all parts fromForetravel.1/2 " impact and sawzall a must. Quote Selected
Re: Torque rod bushings Reply #30 – October 24, 2016, 05:02:26 am Drove to Foretravel and back with the 3 bottom rear tube bushings installed seemed a little tighter.Picked up a few spare bushings and bolts,starting the front now,did mention what I was doing to James Triana,said it wouldprobably track better. Quote Selected 2 Likes
Re: Torque rod bushings Reply #31 – October 27, 2016, 01:02:27 pm Finished 3 more front rod bushing sets,had to raise and lower coach to get bolts back in,rods move quite a bit as coach goes upand down,you can really check the play on the rod when one end is loose,4 more to go,2 rear 2 front. Quote Selected 1 Likes
Re: Torque rod bushings Reply #32 – November 05, 2016, 07:08:12 pm Finished all front torque rods,will take coach to Disney World after Thanksgiving should be tighter in front as all old bushings wereworn.Will do the 2 rear uppers in Jan. Quote Selected 1 Likes
Re: Torque rod bushings Reply #33 – November 06, 2016, 12:14:25 am Glad to hear your project worked out. Now the road test. Let us know Quote Selected
Re: Torque rod bushings Reply #34 – November 06, 2016, 10:52:41 am Looks like another project for my list. I replaced original rubber stabilizer bar and steering bushings on my '96 Safari with polypropylene ones and it really tightened up the suspension. Did Foretravel use rubber or synthetic material? Quote Selected
Re: Torque rod bushings Reply #35 – November 06, 2016, 11:22:25 am Looks like rubber,is black and shiney,seems like a cross between rubber and polypropylene.A impact and 1 1/2 inch wrench andsockets a must. Quote Selected 1 Likes
Re: Torque rod bushings Reply #36 – December 03, 2016, 08:20:54 am Update on front torque rod bushings after 2500 miles,coach did ride a little tighter and less side swaying.Different coaches withdifferent amounts of wear on the bushings will probably have different results.To the posters who have gotton their steering boxredone and the front bearing set and still think they have a sway or looseness,it may be the torque rods.Anytime you can replaceworn rubber on a moving part it has to help.Bushings cost about $15 per rod and there are 10 rods on the coach.I used 4 newbolt and spacer and nut sets but that will vary on your coach. Quote Selected 6 Likes
Re: Torque rod bushings Reply #37 – December 04, 2016, 02:35:54 pm Look at the bush end to note any movement (a little is normal.) If the torque tube can be moved because the bushing is falling to pieces, it time for some work. Rent a commercial bushing tool if access to an arbor is out of the question. Always replace the nut and bolt (do not grease the sleeve or bolt.) BTW: I have very seldom needed to replace torque rod bushings unless you are cursing on some very rough roads.Logging trucks or oil field gear comes to mind.Check w/MOOG for replacement bushing (they make them for everybody.) Call them direct... pc Quote Selected
Re: Torque rod bushings Reply #38 – December 04, 2016, 03:32:36 pm Don't think these are the ones you are used to,you do not need any kind of bushing tool and I reused most of the old nuts and bolts and spacers,(you had to use a impact to the last thread coming and going)I cleaned mine with a 1" flapper wheel and painted the spacer and bolt and coated with anti seize.I would say the bushings on these old coaches fail mostly from rubberbeing 20 years old.Don't forget the rods move somewhat as the airbags go up and down.When I was looking for parts I did seesome other styles but stuck with the 2 piece from Foretravel , they have the lip on the outer part that fits between the frameand the spacer,so you tighten until the bolt stops at the spacer and that leaves the washer looking lip between the frame andtorque rod. Quote Selected
Re: Torque rod bushings Reply #39 – December 04, 2016, 07:38:25 pm I'm doing things in lieu attorneys that will pin your butt to the floor if you use anything but new hardware for legal reasons.For personal use, I have no issues with old fasteners.. pc Quote Selected
Topic: Torque rod bushings