Skip to main content ↑ ↓
Topic: Removing PolyGlo and heavy oxidation (Read 1438 times) previous topic - next topic

Removing PolyGlo and heavy oxidation

I'm doing a major job on the gelcoat and exterior of our coach to bring it up cosmetically.

We purchased our coach last Nov. We selected this one because of PO's maintenance history, but the PO had used PolyGlo a few years back and the coach had a lot of oxidation. The front cap was worse because of how it was stored: covered but the front exposed.

I tried to hire professionals to restore her to proper shine, but I felt faint when I got the bids. They started at $3k and others were double that. I decided to tackle the job myself.

So yesterday I finished my 2nd weekend on nothing but the front cap. I figure I've got 15 labor hours on it, and that number might be low. The steps I followed were: remove PolyGlo, compound, polish then sealant. I've now got it where the Gelcoat shines like a new yacht, but dang, this is real work! I haven't worked like this since I worked construction in college, way back in the stone age.

The rest of the coach should go faster as it's not so heavily oxidized. Also I've progressed on my learning curve, especially on how to remove that PolyGlo "stuff".


Re: Removing PolyGlo and heavy oxidation

Reply #1 –
Pics would be good.. I would be interested

Re: Removing PolyGlo and heavy oxidation

Reply #2 –
Please tell us the process.

Re: Removing PolyGlo and heavy oxidation

Reply #3 –
AND that's one big elephant to clean !

Re: Removing PolyGlo and heavy oxidation

Reply #4 –
Try "zainobros.com" been using their products for years you don't need a sealant.

Re: Removing PolyGlo and heavy oxidation

Reply #5 –
PolyGlow: I'm using PolyPrep as it seems to work faster than Zep Floor Stripper. Warm water seems to work best when diluting it. Wet 2x2 area with a 1qt sprayer. Don't let it drip! That will just add work. Wait 5 mins. Then run the Porter Cable over it with orange pad, soaked in PolyPrep. Wipe often.  Tape off gaskets and similar.

Did I mention I loathe PolyGlo?

Rest: I'm following Cindy's instructions and products to the letter in Beamalarm.com.

Re: Removing PolyGlo and heavy oxidation

Reply #7 –
Our gelcoat was shot and nothing seemed to work. Finally, I bought a HF jitterbug for about $25, plugged it into air, used a light spray from a plastic Hudson Sprayer and then 3000 wet or dry sandpaper. It comes out like glass but is also a LOT of work. Really tough to get the high spots where the decals down even with the rest of the gelcoat. I'm about 2/3 done now.

Pierce

Re: Removing PolyGlo and heavy oxidation

Reply #8 –
Did you start with the 3000 grit, or work your way up?
 
What did you use after sandpaper and water?
 
Thanks,
 
Trent

Re: Removing PolyGlo and heavy oxidation

Reply #9 –
Quote from: TulsaTrent –
Did you start with the 3000 grit, or work your way up?
 What did you use after sandpaper and water?
 Thanks,
 Trent
One side was quite a bit worse so I think I started with 1500 and experimented. Just a carnauba wax after that. The nose takes a beating going down the road so needs it again.

Sometimes we get a deal on Imron paint at the hanger so I would like to shoot the whole thing panel by panel. Think it's Ford Thunderbird white as I remember.

Pierce

Re: Removing PolyGlo and heavy oxidation

Reply #10 –
Polyglow is bascially floor wax, so it should remove chemically. I use it on my redboat gelcoat (it's just a bandaid, but lasts a season!). I wet sanded before putting the poliglow on.

If the gelcoat is really oxidized, just skip to wet sanding. Gelcoat is usually pretty thick.

Re: Removing PolyGlo and heavy oxidation

Reply #11 –
Gosh, been using PolyGlo for about seven years and never had any trouble. Just go over the whole coach every couple of years.

Re: Removing PolyGlo and heavy oxidation

Reply #12 –
Quote from: lgshoup –
Gosh, been using PolyGlo for about seven years and never had any trouble. Just go over the whole coach every couple of years.
I use it too, Larry, but you never want to admit to the fact on most RV Forums (including this one).  You will receive a few hard knocks from the members who believe in more traditional methods of surface restoration and preservation.

I think the biggest concern is not while you are using it, and it looks good.  The problem arises when it is not maintained, and starts to look bad.  Then it can be a chore to remove, as described above.  If a person buys a coach coated with old, decomposing PolyGlo that is starting to flake off and looks really nasty, as in the case of the OP, then they will understandably have a very poor opinion of the product.
 

Re: Removing PolyGlo and heavy oxidation

Reply #13 –
I can see your point. Just polishing and sealing every six months is a big job. I can understand wanting to avoid it.

If you do not maintain the PolyGlo, stripping it off is a horrible mess.