Re: Paradox Development VMSpc
Reply #1 –
Mike,
I am glad this is all up and running for you. The info from VMSpc is what I use to operate the coach. I rarely look at the dash.
All of this looks OK to me. All of the gauges that have indicator lights can be set by the user to change color to yellow or red at high or low settings. These are set now pretty conservatively. You can adjust these in the Parameter Editor for each gauge. When they are all green just a quick glance lets you know all is OK. A yellow light gets your attention and maybe some adjustment. A red light should get you to do something pretty soon.
For your drive train 1400 rpm at 65 mph in 6th is correct.
At 100% load your boost will be close to or near max. Your's is about right.
Retarder temps climb quickly and are use dependent. Under normal driving conditions 225 is common. At 235 my yellow light is on. At 250 the red light comes on. With synthetic oil in the transmission you can probably go higher but by 250° it needs to get some relief. The retarder temp and transmission temp will go down quicker if you gear down a notch (rpms go up). I drive with the switch on but no joystick. With the joystick pulled back everytime you take your foot off the throttle the retarder is on. Some like that, it is just more work for the retarder.
Oil pressure on the ISM11 drops to low 20's when it is warmed up and I come up to a stop. That is normal according to Cummins. I have my warning light change to yellow at 22 just so I pay attention. If you get to a stop sign and it is going to be a while shift into N, RPMs will go up, a bit more cooling, a bit less load on the transmission.
Start battery voltage at 14.7 volts is about as high as it should be any more and your voltage might be set high on the LN alternator. Once the battery is fully charged the voltage should be down in the 13.8-14.0 range even with headlights and dash AC on.
Coolant is right where it should be. It will go up to as much as 195 when it is really hot or you are doing some mountain driving. A but less load, a bit slower and a lower gear in the mountains will add cooling and reduce temps. 188-190 is not uncommon going uphill. We just went through Raton Pass in NM, I think 190° Was about as high as it got going up.
Gear, RPMs, boost pressure and temps are all interative. Slow down a bit going up hill, drop range down to 5th or 4th gear, rpms go up, more cooling, boost goes down, engine load goes down. Less stress on everything including the driver.
Transmission temps are usually about 10° warmer than coolant. Oil temps are normally about 190°. I think I set the yellow light to come on at 200°. I am not sure where that should be exactly. I see it occasionally under load. I think that is a conservative point just to get your attention. Mine hits 200 occasionally and then goes down. The yellow light lets me know I have reached a high temp in what my normal experience has been.
Manifold temp should be near ambient temp or just above. Air comes in through the turbo and gets hot. It then goes through the charge air cooler which is like a big radiator for air and then to the intake manifold. If everything is working well then the hugh pressure air coming into the intake manifold should be about ambient temp and so should your intake manifold. Looks like you are OK.
There is a lot on that screen now. When we stop for the day or for fuel or at our destination I write down the miles and the total fuel reported. This is what the engine computer thinks is correct. Total fuel is what has been put into the engine. It does not include AH or generator use. When you think you need 100 gallons and it takes 110 to fill the tank that is a pretty good estimate of what you have used for the AH and Genset.
Let me know if you want some help adjusting things. There is remote support software installed so I can help directly when you want it.
Topic: Paradox Development VMSpc