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Topic: High output alternator - Leece Neville (Read 1289 times) previous topic - next topic

High output alternator - Leece Neville

I'm in the process of upgrading my electrical system.
Part of my upgrade is the addition of solar panels and a new battery bank.
I would like to upgrade my current 160 amp Leece Neville alternator to a higher output version to help recharge my battery bank ( 6- L16 lifeline AGM 6V 215ah) I also like the idea of possibly running my front roof air unit off it while driving along with my residential refrigerator.
A local alternator shop has a Leece Neville 320amp alternator for sale at a attractive price. I read more good things about the Delco alternators than the Leece.
Advice needed on the Leece purchase. Alternator shop says the local Fire dept and emergency vehicles swear by them.

He also advised against the DUVAC system saying nobody uses them any more.

I would need to change the isolator. In doing some searches I see good reviews from members here on the Blue Sea 500amp. ML-ACR unit.
The alternator for sale is NOT DUVAC, Can this type of alternator be used and if so, what type of isolator would work?
Would my combine switch still be functional with a different type of isolator ?
1995 U320C SE 40'
Jeep 4x4 Commander - Limited - Hemi
"The Pack"  Yogi and Diesel our Airedales -  Charlie our Boxer/Akita mix. Gone but NEVER forgotten Jake our yellow Lab.
NRA Law Enforcement Firearms instructor - Handgun/shotgun
Regional Firearms instructor for national Armored Transp. Co.

Re: High output alternator - Leece Neville

Reply #1 –
Without DUVAC, you can not use an isolator. Either combine all batteries or use the Perko type A,B, All switch. Or anything similar.
1994 U280, Build 4490
Deming, NM.

Re: High output alternator - Leece Neville

Reply #2 –
Lon,
Before you buy that big alternator make sure it will fit without a lot of modifications.
John Duld
1995 U320C SE 40'

Re: High output alternator - Leece Neville

Reply #3 –
Quote from: Twig –
Without DUVAC, you can not use an isolator. Either combine all batteries or use the Perko type A,B, All switch. Or anything similar.

While a firm believer (KISS theory) in a Perko switch, I would NOT use an A/B/All/OFF switch (not aware of an A/B switch that doesn't also have an OFF.  Turning the B+ OF, even accidentally with the engine running will kill the diodes in the alternator.

Instead, use a simple ON-OFF switch.  B+ and chassis battery to one lug. House battery to the other.  Been there, done that.  LOTS of advantages:

You re not working the alternator harder to then turn that extra output into HEAT (that is why the diode-based isolators have all those big fins-- to get rid of the HEAT they produce.

If going from CG with shore power to another one tonight, why OVER-charge an already fully charged house battery bank all day (yes, paying diesel do do it and working the alternator harder).

An excellent solid mechanical boost switch/combine switch for starting or for charging the chassis batteries from the house bank charging source.

SO, left OFF, alternator always charges the chassis battery.
If ON, both chassis and house banks charged.

Another more "automatic"/more complex/more expensive option with non-DUVAC alternator would be a smart battery combiner.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: High output alternator - Leece Neville

Reply #4 –
If you want to get rid of the isolater couldn't you connect the alternator B+ and engine batteries to one side of the boost solenoid and leave the house batteries connected to the other side of the boost solenoid, then you could turn the house batteries on and off from the cockpit.
John Duld
1995 U320C SE 40'

Re: High output alternator - Leece Neville

Reply #5 –
Quote from: John Duld –
If you want to get rid of the isolater couldn't you connect the alternator B+ and engine batteries to one side of the boost solenoid and leave the house batteries connected to the other side of the boost solenoid, then you could turn the house batteries on and off from the cockpit.

Yes, that is an option.  But the boost solenoid has a higher failure rate than a simple mechanical switch. With the mechanical switch, the boost switch serves as a backup.

Even the "medium duty" Perko ON-OFF switch is rated at 250 amps continuous: PERKO Inc. - Catalog - Battery Switches - Medium Duty Battery Disconnect...

Their heavy duty (probably overkill) is rated at 450 continuous, 1,200 intermittent. PERKO Inc. - Catalog - Battery Switches - Heavy Duty Battery Disconnect...
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: High output alternator - Leece Neville

Reply #6 –
FWIW I serviced an old 6V DD and the owner complained that the boat sank too often . Pumped it out ,started it back up changed the oils etc.  Some PM was to vent the fuel tanks  up the flag mast .  He told me that when he bought it  the only visible thing was the mast . 
 Removed the generator and  engineered two standard 120 amp delco alternators  on the nose. One spun the opposite of the other. They  each drove drove a stand alone battery pack  and a few bilge pumps .  I think that there were 4 big batterys and 4 or more pumps.
 I used 2 little side marker lamps for volt indicator. The preflight was to check the oil, fire it up, check that both lamps were bright .  40ft canal boat in Rochester NY .
 Maybe you could use 2 stand alone systems and some of the newer kickass GM alternators. 

Re: High output alternator - Leece Neville

Reply #7 –
I think the failure rate of the boost solenoids is low enough that the convience of a switch in the cockpit versus getting out to flip a switch makes the cockpit switch very desirable. And if it fails your not stuck. Start the generator and charge that house batteries. Change the solenoid in the morning if it comes to that.
Isolaters do seem to cause problems. Setting up this way would eliminate those problems but then it would be up to you to monitor the house battery charge and flip the switch when charging is nessary. If you allow a big house battery bank to get real low that would demand a lot out of the alternator. Maybe under that situation it would be better to start the generator and let the battery charger do the bulk charge,then allow the alternator to top it off going down the road.
John Duld
1995 U320C SE 40'

Re: High output alternator - Leece Neville

Reply #8 –
There are lots of ways to do it......but by FAR the cheapest and easiest is to have the new alternator modified for DUVAC. Then you touch nothing.
1994 U280, Build 4490
Deming, NM.

Re: High output alternator - Leece Neville

Reply #9 –
If duvac alternator is not available, ditch isolator and buy simple 2 wire alternator and one of these.
ML-ACRs - Blue Sea Systems
Jim C.
coachfree, previous 1997, 1999, 2000, and 2003 Foretravels.
 

Re: High output alternator - Leece Neville

Reply #10 –
Quote from: jcus –
If duvac alternator is not available, ditch isolator and buy simple 2 wire alternator and one of these.
ML-ACRs - Blue Sea Systems

That is the unit I have been thinking of.
1995 U320C SE 40'
Jeep 4x4 Commander - Limited - Hemi
"The Pack"  Yogi and Diesel our Airedales -  Charlie our Boxer/Akita mix. Gone but NEVER forgotten Jake our yellow Lab.
NRA Law Enforcement Firearms instructor - Handgun/shotgun
Regional Firearms instructor for national Armored Transp. Co.