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Topic: Water Hose Drip (and More) (Read 765 times) previous topic - next topic

Water Hose Drip (and More)

I've searched the Forum for info about owners who have had a leak in their utility bay.  It appears (?) to generally be an issue with a back flow or check valve?  This thread seemed the most helpful:  fresh water check valve (back flow preventer), for Newbies

Presumably this what is allowing water to continue to flow into our hose. I'm assuming this leak is also what is causing our water pump to "burp" periodically, when we aren't connected to city water.  Whatever . . . has flooded the bay (we put a one-quart ZipLoc bag on the end of the hose.  It filled and overflowed in 3-4 days).  I assume the water also is going down into the rear beam area (Brett Wolfe's post here).

So, the question:  I'd like to schedule time with Oregon Motorcoach, the closest shop, to have whatever valve is causing this replaced, along with the hose (ours is 18 years old and pretty ratty looking).  Any special warnings or tips before we do this?

With thanks always for the knowledge on this Forum!

Re: Water Hose Drip (and More)

Reply #2 –
Put shutoff on end of hose from Home Depot till you get it in and fixed

Re: Water Hose Drip (and More)

Reply #3 –
My solution is a ball valve. I open it when I fill and shut it off when finished and if the sucker leaks it is externally mounted so easy to change out.

Roland

Re: Water Hose Drip (and More)

Reply #4 –
Here is a photo of the ball valve shutoff I am using to replace the check valve. Replaced the check valve once too many times. No more leaks with this setup.

Roland

Re: Water Hose Drip (and More)

Reply #5 –
Quote from: LookingWest –
So, the question:  I'd like to schedule time with Oregon Motorcoach, the closest shop, to have whatever valve is causing this replaced, along with the hose (ours is 18 years old and pretty ratty looking).  Any special warnings or tips before we do this?
You have already found the solution to the leaky check valve: install a 1/4 turn ball valve in the water line.  Have them place it so it is easy to reach.  You linked to the thread where I posted a photo of my add-on "fill valve".  Roland's solution (above) is also very handy.

Do you have a water hose reel?  If so, one thing to look at when you have your water hose replaced: the mounting bolts and backing plate (or plates).  Look under the coach where the water hose reel is mounted - see if there is any kind of reinforcement plate(s) on the mounting bolts.  If so, they are probably pretty rusty.  Either have them cleaned up and painted with some rust preventative coating, or replace them with new.  If you don't have any plates, add some!  They help to spread the load of the reel mounting bolts to prevent strain on the fiberglass bottom skin.  Replace the mounting bolts if they are rusty or damaged.

Water Hose Replacement

Re: Water Hose Drip (and More)

Reply #6 –
Thanks, everyone, for good advice — as always!

Yes, we do have a hose reel, so checking the mounting boats is a good idea.  We'll recommend the backing plate to the shop.  Wish a lot of this work were something I could do, but Susan & I both work full time, and my mechanical ability is almost non-existent anyway.  Some days I question the wisdom of having purchased a coach, but the Forum has been wonderful — thank all of you!

Re: Water Hose Drip (and More)

Reply #7 –
Actually, four 4X4X1/8" aluminum plated, each drilled on center to allow the through bolt to go through is all you need.

Bed them in a good polysulfide.

Should take less than a half hour total and other than drilling the holes, non technical.

Re: Water Hose Drip (and More)

Reply #8 –
Richard,  putting a valve on the hose is OK but make sure it is not leaking where the hose reel connects to the water line feeding to the fill valve. 

As far as mechanical skills are concerned almost any of us can do what needs to be done.  Start with the simple things, one step at a time.  None of us knew what we were doing when we started, we all had to learn. And we are still learning.  We are here to help - at least with what we know.

Re: Water Hose Drip (and More)

Reply #9 –
"None of us knew what we were doing when we started, we all had to learn." Some of us still don't know what we are doing, but we're having fun anyway.

I had small leaks that were a pain to chase down, but easy to fix. The first one was the check valve at the fill. I replaced it and the problem was solved. It took longer to get to it than to fix it.


Second one was the nylon (?) plug on the hot water heater. They only last a couple of years and then start leaking. Just remember to turn the hot water heater OFF and leave it alone for a few hours before you take the plug out. Also, don't change it when it is below freezing, as you will create a nice ice patch.

Third one was the ball valve on the fill line. That was my introduction to Shark Bite fittings. Why didn't they have those things 50 years ago?

Re: Water Hose Drip (and More)

Reply #10 –
Quote from: wolfe10 –
Actually, four 4X4X1/8" aluminum plated, each drilled on center to allow the through bolt to go through is all you need.
Bed them in a good polysulfide.
Brett,

I have done this for my hose reels. I am now replacing my cockpit seats. My recollection is they had large steel washers on the bottom.

Would large aluminum pads be better there, too, or is that area already reinforced?

Thanks,

Trent
 

Re: Water Hose Drip (and More)

Reply #11 –
Trent,

I have never seen any sign of cracking around the seat bolts/washers. 

Hose reels, Joey beds, etc if not properly backed up with plates can allow the thin FG bottom of the coach to crack, allowing water into the basement structure.