Skip to main content
Topic: Changing engine door cylinders (Read 737 times) previous topic - next topic

Changing engine door cylinders

Does anyone know the trick to replacing engine door hyd. Cylinders.  They need to be compressed approx. 1 in.  Just curious if anyone has changed these before.
Jerry & Nanci
1999 U270 34'WTFI
2011 Malibu
A smart man knows what to say, a wise man knows when to say it.

Re: Changing engine door cylinders

Reply #1
There are posts before on this do a search. The use of a ratchet tie down is the tool most used.
1999 40 ft. U-320 wtfe build 5563 Chuck & Lynda's "Rollin' Inn"  2030 watts solar
prev. mh's 71 GMC 5 yrs. 73 Pace Setter 1 yr. 78 Vogue 5 yrs 81 FTX 40ft all electric 18 yrs. 1996 Monaco Signature 3 yrs.
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland
Dream as if you will live forever. Live as if you will die today.  James Dean

Re: Changing engine door cylinders

Reply #2
Thanks craneman.
Jerry & Nanci
1999 U270 34'WTFI
2011 Malibu
A smart man knows what to say, a wise man knows when to say it.

Re: Changing engine door cylinders

Reply #3
The ratchet tie downs worked great.  Thanks.
Jerry & Nanci
1999 U270 34'WTFI
2011 Malibu
A smart man knows what to say, a wise man knows when to say it.

Re: Changing engine door cylinders

Reply #4
I did it last year.  I agree that a ratchet tie down is necessary.  Be sure to brace the door in the up position - it is really heavy and one strut will not hold it up.
2000 U320 mid entry  #5688
2006 Jeep Liberty


USMCR retired
SDFD retired
FEMA US&R TF8

 

Re: Changing engine door cylinders

Reply #5
These 300 lb 26.3 were easy to install.  I first put a pair on my bed (I have a very heavy Serta thick memory foam mattress).  I could raise the engine cover up enough to install, they are working perfectly.  I used A PAIR(2) 26.3 in Gas Strut Shock Spring prop rod lift 300 lb.

Ordered a second pair for the rear engine outside opening.  These seemed impossible to install as they were an inch to long.  I tore a couple ratchet tie straps.  Then I used the following by drilling out a little bit on each end to hold the strut steady.  Then I helped collapse the bar clamp with a ratchet tie strap to compress the strut.  It worked perfectly.  Next summer I will replace these with approx 225 to 250 lb units as the 300 make the rear door too hard to close.  The factory struts were 170 lbs.  https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-36-in-Heavy-Duty-Bar-Clamp-DWHT83269/303115029
97 U295 40, Build #5040, 6C8.3 325 HP
Oregon Continuous Traveler
Samsung Residential #RF20HFENBSR,
Xantrex SW2012, (3)AGM8D Hse, (2)AGM Grp24 Eng, Victron BMV-712, 1800w Solar 4 LG & 2 Sunpower
Extreme Full Body Pt w/hdlmps, new furn/floor, 4 down Lexus 2004 GX470 AWD curb weight 4,740 lbs
Prev: 1990 Barth, 10L 300 2 yrs; 91&92 Monaco Signature, 10 yrs, 10L C 300 &  6C8.3 300; 1997 ForeT 6C8.3 325 since May 2017.  Employed by Guaranty RV 14+ yrs.  Former VW New Car Dlr/Service Dlr, Sales Mgr, Rv Sales, and Service Adviser from 1968-2017
"Don't criticize what you can't understand" Bob Dylan