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Topic: Refrigerator lp gas solenoid valve (Read 738 times) previous topic - next topic

Refrigerator lp gas solenoid valve

Hello all,
I was wondering if anyone could comment on the refrigerator propane valve.  Ours is the dometic side by side though the model escapes me.  Original.  Sitting in my office I heard the propane alarm going off.  I entered the coach and there was a noticeable odor.  Fantastic fan was already running so I shut off propane at the tank and left it to air out.  Eventually I rubbed a few brain cells together to realize I turned off the fridge a few hours earlier in order to diagnose an unknown current draw (air levelling compressor was doing what it was supposed to).  Fridge has been running happily for months on end in a/c mode with no propane odors to speak of.  I remember we had something similar happen once before but I didn't connect the dots.  I wouldn't think this would be possible.  I'd think the solenoid would be spring loaded closed when the fridge is off and powered open when gas flow is requested.  So.

1) Does anyone know if the propane solenoid is ENERGIZED closed (versus just using spring pressure) when the fridge is on but propane isn't requested.  Should be easy enough to measure but I am curious if anyone has any comments on the subject.
2) Has anyone replaced the solenoid valve before?  It's quite expensive but I am more curious how hard the job is.  On the surface it looks easy but who knows how that will go.

Thanks!

Re: Refrigerator lp gas solenoid valve

Reply #1 –
From a Dometic 1282 manual;

TESTING LP GAS SAFETY SHUTOFF The gas safety shutoff must be tested after the refrigerator is connected to LP gas supply. To test the gas safety shutoff, proceed as follows:  Start the refrigerator according to the instructions, and switch to GAS mode. (See start up instructions).  Check that the gas flame is lit and the GAS mode indicator lamp (C) is on. Close the manual gas shutoff valve at the back of the refrigerator. (See FIG. 1).  Wait for one minute. The CHECK indicator lamp (D) should be on and the GAS mode indicator lamp (C) should be off.  Remove protection cover (see FIG. 1) and open the manual gas shutoff valve. Do not change any button positions on the control panel. Apply a non-corrosive commercial bubble solution to the burner jet orifice.  No bubbles should appear at the opening of the burner jet orifice. The presence of bubbles indicates a defective gas safety shutoff, and service is required.  If no bubbles were present at the burner jet orifice, it should be rinsed with fresh water. Be careful not to damage the burner jet orifice. Replace cover and press the main power ON/OFF button (1) OFF and back ON. Normal operation of the burner should return.  Allow the burner to operate for a minimum of five minutes.

Re: Refrigerator lp gas solenoid valve

Reply #2 –
I did indeed find 0.11amp when the fridge burner was on and 0.06 when off.  I'll have to figure out how to take apart the burner area.  Have to go to battle with some wasps first.  Thanks!

Re: Refrigerator lp gas solenoid valve

Reply #3 –
I think I get it.  Why would the propane leak only when the fridge is off?  Answer: it doesn't.  It leaks all the time.  The difference is that when the fridge is on a/c mode the updraft through the burner tube caused by the electric element ventillates the propane out the top.  When it's off and cools down the propane just sinks downwards.  I still have to do the testing to confirm that it just leaks all the time but it sounds good to me.

Re: Refrigerator lp gas solenoid valve

Reply #4 –
Quote from: Mark D –
Hello all,
I was wondering if anyone could comment on the refrigerator propane valve.  Ours is the dometic side by side though the model escapes me.  Original.  Sitting in my office I heard the propane alarm going off.  I entered the coach and there was a noticeable odor.  Fantastic fan was already running so I shut off propane at the tank and left it to air out.  Eventually I rubbed a few brain cells together to realize I turned off the fridge a few hours earlier in order to diagnose an unknown current draw (air levelling compressor was doing what it was supposed to).  Fridge has been running happily for months on end in a/c mode with no propane odors to speak of.  I remember we had something similar happen once before but I didn't connect the dots.  I wouldn't think this would be possible.  I'd think the solenoid would be spring loaded closed when the fridge is off and powered open when gas flow is requested.  So.

1) Does anyone know if the propane solenoid is ENERGIZED closed (versus just using spring pressure) when the fridge is on but propane isn't requested.  Should be easy enough to measure but I am curious if anyone has any comments on the subject.
2) Has anyone replaced the solenoid valve before?  It's quite expensive but I am more curious how hard the job is.  On the surface it looks easy but who knows how that will go.

Thanks!
My MTI Industries, Safe T Alert  model 70 742 R KIT with mfg date of 2013, I will replace this May in 2019.  I called them to see what model to order to replace, as it is over 5 years old (necessary, by their recommendation) .  They told me to use the same model and I had to replace both the solenoid and the unit together which comes in the kit.  I am not confident this system as installed is even working ( I will explain after I test and replace in May) with the solenoid and unit in kit form.  (I do have a copy of a bill showing both were installed by a local reputable Foretravel listed repair facility in Eugene, OR. 5 years ago.  I will follow your post and update  in May of 2019.

The instructions for this model say it will quit working 5 years after it is first installed and turned on.  It will go in to continuous alarm mode and at that point can be re set for 30 days only. 
97 U295 40, Build #5040, 6C8.3 325 HP
Oregon Continuous Traveler
Samsung Residential #RF20HFENBSR,
Xantrex SW2012, (3)AGM8D Hse, (2)AGM Grp24 Eng, Victron BMV-712, 1800w Solar 4 LG & 2 Sunpower
Extreme Full Body Pt w/hdlmps, new furn/floor, 4 down Lexus 2004 GX470 AWD curb weight 4,740 lbs
Prev: 1990 Barth, 10L 300 2 yrs; 91&92 Monaco Signature, 10 yrs, 10L C 300 &  6C8.3 300; 1997 ForeT 6C8.3 325 since May 2017.  Employed by Guaranty RV 14+ yrs.  Former VW New Car Dlr/Service Dlr, Sales Mgr, Rv Sales, and Service Adviser from 1968-2017
"Don't criticize what you can't understand" Bob Dylan

Re: Refrigerator lp gas solenoid valve

Reply #5 –
Propane alarm went nuts at 5am.  Now I am zeroing in on no actual propane leak at all and a failing propane leak detector.  The valve was off at the tank.  The odor I smelled in the original post was decidedly not propane like.  Probably a slightly leaking air admittance valve.  I'll still go through the effort of testing the solenoid safety shutoff.

Re: Refrigerator lp gas solenoid valve

Reply #6 –
The plot thickens.  The propane alarm was likely functioning properly.  The odor I smelled was likely hydrogen gas/sulfuric acid as one of the batteries is swollen.  Now that I see the battery the smell does smell sulfur like.  That battery turned out to be quite hot.  That's 2 out of 3 dead so it's new coach battery time.  I guess the lesson is to run down all the systems when something weird is going on.  This all started with unexpected current draw showing on the prosine panel.  I don't think I killed it.. The panel showed mid 13's float voltage but I have to verify things eventually. 

Now I'm trying to figure out what to do about it.  Despite disconnecting the charger the battery is still very hot likely due to the other battery still feeding it.  I'm afraid to disconnect it due to the potential for a hydrogen explosion.

Re: Refrigerator lp gas solenoid valve

Reply #7 –
I got brave and disconnected it.  :o  My assessment of shorted cell is correct.  It's down to 11.6 volts.  I am using the docking lights to bring it down to a safer voltage and hopefully the explosion risk will diminish.  On the plus side O'Reilly is really fast and will have new AGM's for me tomorrow ;)

Re: Refrigerator lp gas solenoid valve

Reply #8 –
Mark,

Can you disconnect that one battery from its "friends"?

If not, might just turn off breaker to inverter/charger so it doesn't try to charge the house bank.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Refrigerator lp gas solenoid valve

Reply #9 –
3 new 8D AGM's from O'Reilly.  Check me off as another satisfied customer.  All 3 batteries were marked november 2018 (as in just made) and all 3 were the same voltage to the hundredths.  Those things are beastly heavy.  On our normal tvs computers, etc draw I calculate we can run about 9 hours now before we'd be at 50% discharge.  We got maybe 4 hours before with the 2 out of 3 functional gels. 

Re: Refrigerator lp gas solenoid valve

Reply #10 –
Quote from: Mark D –
I got brave and disconnected it.  :o  My assessment of shorted cell is correct.  It's down to 11.6 volts.  I am using the docking lights to bring it down to a safer voltage and hopefully the explosion risk will diminish.  On the plus side O'Reilly is really fast and will have new AGM's for me tomorrow ;)
Was your charger set for AGM's
Chris and Tammy White  CDA Idaho
Previous owners 1997 U295 36' 3126 Cat 300 HP Build # 4998
Former Foretravel tech & RVIA certified tech
Former owner Custom Satellite home/RV satellites 
Former owner Vans LTD  van conversions
Unemployed, panhandler, drag racer NHRA #6348
 

Re: Refrigerator lp gas solenoid valve

Reply #11 –
Quote from: gracerace –
Was your charger set for AGM's

I've researched this before getting the batteries.  We have the prosine 2.5 and it was set for gel.  The temperature sensor is broken so I manually set the temperature to "HOT" on the advanced control panel.  In the last week when it cooled off I changed it to warm which likely helped the problem battery along.  The temperature setting mainly affects the bulk/absorb voltage from what I've noticed.  I've left the panel set to GEL for the new batteries.  I'm not convinced they will be chronically undercharged with the gel profile but I'm not sure.

http://www.eastpenn-deka.com/assets/base/0139.pdf

That document details the voltages for Deka AGM's and GEL's.  The charge voltage with the AGM is higher.  More like a regular lead acid battery.  But I am not convinced that the batteries won't recharge fine at the lower voltage if slower.  Once I get the temperature sensor fixed I may change the setting to flooded and see if the voltages look good compared to the chart.  The alternator charge voltage was always a little high for gel.

Oh also the way the voltage dropped in the problem battery it had at least 2 shorted cells.