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Topic: Steering (Read 2332 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Steering

Reply #25 –
How do I post a 40 second behind the wheel video here?  Smugmug wants a membership.  No,
"Riding and rejoicing"
Bob
1997 U320 40' Mid entry, build 5132,  wtbi ce27, 4th owner
2007 Solara convertible
2 prodeco tech outlaw ss electric bikes

1095 watts solar
08 Ls 460 and a sc430
2000 Ford F-250 superduty 4x4

Re: Steering

Reply #26 –
Quote from: Caflashbob –
How do I post a 40 second behind the wheel video here?  Smugmug wants a membership.  No,
I am not sure, I have had a smugmug account to about 15 years.
Steve

1997 U270 36' build 5179
Motorcade #18147
1980 CJ5

Re: Steering

Reply #27 –
Quote from: Caflashbob –
How do I post a 40 second behind the wheel video here?  Smugmug wants a membership.  No,


Post on YouTube?  40 seconds of steering wheel movement might go viral and make you the next YouTube influencer.

And it's free.

Yes I'm feeling great today, I have the Rockwood cleaned up and listed for sale.  Now I can get back to working on my Foretravel.

Sample:  Brother's Shell Trim Diana Sullivan - YouTube
1992 Foretravel Grand Villa
U225 SBID Build No. 4134
1986 Rockwood Driftwood
1968 S.I.A.T.A. Spring
1962 Studebaker Lark
1986 Honda VF700C
1983 Honda VF750C
Charlie, the Dog was broken out of jail 24 Oct 2023
N1RPN
AA1OH (H)e who must be obeyed.

Re: Steering

Reply #28 –
Quote from: Chuck Pearson –
Give it a try.    You'll need to look at the track bar and see which direction  to turn it.  The goal is to get the  front of the tires closer together the rear of the tires spread apart.  As I recall, looking at the end of the track bar from passenger side, you would rotate it clockwise but verify this.  It's been years since I did it, possibly others can comment. 

Chuck are you talking about the track bar (aka panhard rod) or the tie rod that connects left to right steering knuckles?
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Steering

Reply #29 –
We are having the same issue with our 1997 rig! Glad to see all this info!
Think we will see what we can check and possibly have it checked out somewhere on this years East Coast travels...
Christine & Jimmy
Nomadic, Full-time Life in Progress...
1997 U295/36/C8.3
600 AH BB-LiFePo/1080 Watts Solar
2020 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk
** Social media: curiosity-in-motion

The cure for boredom is curiosity. There is no cure for curiosity. ~Dorothy Parker~

Re: Steering

Reply #30 –
Quote from: wolfe10 –
Chuck are you talking about the track bar (aka panhard rod) or the tie rod that connects left to right steering knuckles?

My apologies, it appears my terminology is incorrect.  It is the tie rod that connects the steering knuckles.  It is the aftmost suspension component, approximately 6 feet long that connects right and left steering knuckles.  It is located behind, and parallel to the I beam axle.
"Not so  long ago we were a nation of risk takers, riding five million pounds of  thrust straight into space."  Joe Gresh
Chuck Pearson
1996 U295
2018 Can Am X3 TurboRS

Re: Steering

Reply #31 –
Quote from: Chuck Pearson –
My apologies, it appears my terminology is incorrect.  It is the tie rod that connects the steering knuckles.  It is the aftmost suspension component, approximately 6 feet long that connects right and left steering knuckles.  It is located behind, and parallel to the I beam axle.

Yup, and easy to measure toe-in and adjust the tie rod length.

Raise front tires off ground.  Use a nail installed at an angle into a piece of 2X4 to scribe a line on the tire as you rotate it one revolution. Return tires to fully loaded position.

Use a tape measure, long stick or other "tool" to measure both front and back of the tire-- as close to1/2 way up the tire as possible-- same height on both front and back. 

Set toe to 1/8" toe- IN (back dimension 1/8" LONGER than front).

Since camber can't be changed without bending the axle and caster is set by metal shims so unlikely to change toe-in is normally all that needs to be checked on a front end alignment on a solid axle coach.

Yes, ride height, tire pressure, wheel bearing play, etc are also important.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Steering

Reply #32 –
And, irregardless of what suspension one haves, if one corner is in poor shape--not supporting or rebounding the same as the other side, your coach will "jump" all over the road.
We found out the hard way. The deterioration of our passenger front spring was quite gradual until we bottomed badly at 45 MPH on our way to TX in 2017. When coming home the recoil of the front end of our coach made steering very, very, nerve wracking. (we have leaf springs by the way)
Replaced both front springs and now the coach drives like our Cadillac Eldorado did.
Check your heights just before launching. If sides vary, something might be wrong.
Nitehawk,  Demolition Lady, & our NEW master, Zippy the speeding BB cat.
1989 Grand Villa 36' ORED
Oshkosh chassis, 8.2 DD V8
2006 Saturn Vue AWD

Re: Steering

Reply #33 –
Quote from: nitehawk –

Check your heights just before launching. If sides vary, something might be wrong.

Yes, with leaf suspension, side to side on both axles should have the same "ride height".  Adding a leaf, adding a shim, shifting weight, all work to relevel.  Of course if the spring has lost its "spring" replacement is the correct answer.

For air suspensions, it IS DIFFERENT.

Start in the rear.  There are two ride height valves in back.  Get ride height to spec. 

BUT (large but) there is only one ride height valve in front, so you want the "average" to be on-spec.  If more than 1/2" different, yes, you can fudge by adjusting one side in back, say 1/8" above spec and the other side 1/8" below spec to transfer weight side to side in front.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Steering

Reply #34 –
Per Brett for setting some toe. Remeasure with wheels  on the ground. 1/8 in to 1/4 in toe in may be changed with the wheels on th ground due to the usual slop , flex of all of the pieces involved. 
 
FWIW the older Oshkosh has a slack adjuster  bolt on the steering box. The 3/4in  lock nut is left hand thread on mine, the center bolt is 1/4 allen .
 

Re: Steering

Reply #35 –
I think Mike with  Protech Racing put it well, I'm pasting his response from an older thread.

 The reality is that you should use a little toe in as possible.  If the customer complains about wander you add a little , simple as that.  The high value  is 1/2 in  total toe . The low value is 0.
  My Oshkosh was zero when I got it and it drove fine on small ,high pressure tires.  I changed tires to the 295 and now it likes 1/4 toe in , measured  with toe plates  across the entire tire. Just above the bottom rubber bump.  Some can measure across the tire tread section that runs  straight 360*.
It does not matter how you measure toe as long as you use the same method each time. The mission is to have a bus that tracks well for the driver,  while using as little toe in as possible . Too much toe slows it down/burns fuel/ wears tires.
 Every vehicle has a tolerance stack  that affects tracking. Ball joint not new but inside of specs, kingpins, tie rods, wheel bearings ,  trailing links, etc, all can be in factory spec ranges , yet  all have some affect on tracking . Adding toe in can take up the total slack  in these items and produce the best compromise between driver and tire wear.

 If you get aligned at a shop,  ask to see that chart for your chassis, baring that, look for another bus that has the same front axle and start with those values. If it tracks poorly , ask for another twist of toe. Measure it post adjustment and use that value and measurement method for the future.  (end of Mike's post.)

My coach drove best running Michelin tires, with slightly more than 1/4" toe in, measured at edges of tire.  I've got Toyos now and will reset it till it feels right for them.  I also found that a safe-t-plus stabilizer added an additional margin of stability.
"Not so  long ago we were a nation of risk takers, riding five million pounds of  thrust straight into space."  Joe Gresh
Chuck Pearson
1996 U295
2018 Can Am X3 TurboRS