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Topic: Cab AC  (Read 1726 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Cab AC

Reply #25 –
Miz Dani
Thank you for communicating exactly the way I feel about getting a professional to fix the a/c. MOT, FT, Bern'd and Byer supposedly all knowledgeable and capable of fixing a FT a/c; failed and yet I am without a/c and over $3000 less in my pocket. There  seems to be a industry attitude of screw the customer. Rework due to failure of work preformed is REPAY again. Not one of the entity involved has ever offered to fix it on their dime. It is not just a female thing, it is the way they do business. Standing behind your work does not exist in the repair industry especially when it relates to FT.
John
1998 U270 34'

Re: Cab AC

Reply #26 –
97 and 98 had 17k btu dash air.  99 and up had larger(27k?) dash ac. 

My dash air keeps the front seats ok until the low 90's outside with the gen and roof airs.

My thermostat is reachable from the drivers seat.

So I leave the control panel set for a/c and the fans on auto and the front and rear temps are where I want them to be.

When needed I turn the gen on and give it a minute to connect and then reach back and power on the control.

2 minute delay the compressors come on,

When turning off the system reverse the steps.  Load off first.  Then the gen
 
"Riding and rejoicing"
Bob
1997 U320 40' Mid entry, build 5132,  wtbi ce27, 4th owner
2007 Solara convertible
2 prodeco tech outlaw ss electric bikes

1095 watts solar
08 Ls 460 and a sc430
2000 Ford F-250 superduty 4x4

Re: Cab AC

Reply #27 –
On my 96 coach, I ended up replacing everything but the condenser to get all the leaks repaired and the unit operating properly. This included all the hoses.  When my 2005 coach started losing refrigerant, we disassembled every connection and replaced the rubber seals. Only after that were we able draw a vacuum down to 500 microns.  We serviced with refrigerant to the proper sub cooling and superheat.  I can now run the dash air to cool the entire coach by running the exhaust fans in the back.  Of course this will not preclude running the roof air in Texas in August. 

I have found most automobile a/c technicians still use just a set of gauges and only get the a/c to cool.  They never attempt to get it to produce the maximum possible.  Getting it correct makes a significant difference.

I have not coated my windshield with the clear 3M sheets yet, but know someone who had his Fleetwood done and he was impressed with the reduction in heat. 
Steve DeLange
2005 U320T 40'
Pearland, Texas

Re: Cab AC

Reply #28 –
Mine works well, however, I have to add a can of refrigerant every few months. Check the oil, check the tires, add a can of R-134 and we're good to go. I spent a bunch on the automotive A/C in my previous coach but it never did work great. Probably the only way to get there is do like Steve and go through the whole system end to end.
jor
93 225
95 300
97 270
99 320

Re: Cab AC

Reply #29 –
Have tried a leak stop called "Red Angel" with good results,can get it on Amazon.
96 U270 BUILD 4810
85 380SL
Drummonds TN.

Re: Cab AC

Reply #30 –
Quote from: craneman –
Wonder where they picked up the additional 6,000 from my '99?
The claimed capacity may have increased, but I suspect the actual capacity didn't really increase. The Sanden compressor that is used in many applications (including our 95 U320) is capable of producing only about 24,000 BTU when operated at the speed it operates in our coaches (given the engine RPM and pulley diameters). It would be interesting to know which compressor Foretravel used in 2002.
David and Carolyn Osborn
1995 U320C SE 40' Build 4726 Feb 1995
FMCA 147762
Motorcade 17186

Re: Cab AC

Reply #31 –
The 99's had a different dash ac box as far as my research into my dash airs lack of desert type cooling.  DIfferent assembly.

Foretravel tended to order 2 years worth of parts spread out over the two years.

Probably a year in they got enough feedback to know what needed changing and to engineer the changes and build the parts then test and install.  Problem is the test and install is probably at the same time.
"Riding and rejoicing"
Bob
1997 U320 40' Mid entry, build 5132,  wtbi ce27, 4th owner
2007 Solara convertible
2 prodeco tech outlaw ss electric bikes

1095 watts solar
08 Ls 460 and a sc430
2000 Ford F-250 superduty 4x4

Re: Cab AC

Reply #32 –
Quote
Have tried a leak stop called "Red Angel" with good results,can get it on Amazon.

I'm gonna get me some of that stuff. Thanks for the tip.
jor
93 225
95 300
97 270
99 320

Re: Cab AC

Reply #33 –
Anybody can replace parts....but in my experience only 5-10% of "experienced techs" can troubleshoot correctly.  This is everywhere: RV's, cars, plumbing, electrical work, IT, space shuttle, ships, power plants, airplanes.
1998 U270 34'

Re: Cab AC

Reply #34 –
   We have a 2002 U270 and the dash air works great without the roof air on until the return temp in the coach starts to warm up above 78 degrees. We then crank the generator and roof air units and my wife travels with a blanket on her its so cold.
  Recently though while on I-10 west the road was so rough that a damper swapped over on its own and now the air only comes out of the defrost and floor vents. I cannot get it to swap back over. Anyone know how to access the damper system in the dash?

Re: Cab AC

Reply #35 –
Allen,

Welcome to the ForeForum.

Sounds like it might be a vacuum issue.  Default condition when no vacuum present is defrost.  If most is coming out the defrost vents, and only a little out the floor, that is where I would start.

You have a 12 VDC vacuum pump OR air powered vacuum pump (depends on year model) up front that generates vacuum.  Start by tracing the vacuum line to the dash HVAC selector.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Cab AC

Reply #36 –
Allen,

On my coach, FOT installed an air driven vacuum pump when it was built.  If yours is original, it should be the same. It is located behind the fold down outside step curtain.  I ended up replacing it with an electric pump when it failed.  The original vacuum canister is just a tin can.  Mine was pretty rusted and I replaced it with a plastic canister.  All available through NAPA.  More info on the forum if you search.

All the vacuum solenoids are located in the center of the dash behind the storage compartment and under the drawer.  I did a post a number of years ago about how to disassemble the dash and access them.

Rich

Dash Removal
Rich and Peggy Bowman
2002 U270 3610 WTFS, build #5939--"Freedom"
2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee Summit 4xe
SMI AirForceOne brake system
PakCanoe 15

Re: Cab AC

Reply #37 –
Quote from: Allen Singleton –
  We have a 2002 U270 and the dash air works great without the roof air on until the return temp in the coach starts to warm up above 78 degrees. We then crank the generator and roof air units and my wife travels with a blanket on her its so cold.
  Recently though while on I-10 west the road was so rough that a damper swapped over on its own and now the air only comes out of the defrost and floor vents. I cannot get it to swap back over. Anyone know how to access the damper system in the dash?

Allen,

Also check the position of the rotary switch on the magazine rack to the right of the passenger seat.  IIRC it controls the vents that blow towards the passenger.
Learn every day, but especially from the experiences of others. It's cheaper!  - John C. Bogle

2000 U320 36' non-slide / WildEBeest Rescue
2003 U320

Re: Cab AC

Reply #38 –
Allen,

The vacuum solenoids I referenced above control the flaps that direct the air.  You can spot them by all the small black tubes that distribute the vacuum.  I replaced one last year when a flap quick working.  Each flap also has a vacuum driven actuator.

Rich
Rich and Peggy Bowman
2002 U270 3610 WTFS, build #5939--"Freedom"
2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee Summit 4xe
SMI AirForceOne brake system
PakCanoe 15
 

Re: Cab AC

Reply #39 –
Eye-opening thread for me.  1992 U225, purchased in 2002; 1st service was by FT and included topping off the R12 for dash A/C and it worked OK.  Short time later prepping for a trip - no cooling.  Had system charged again, same thing. MOT worked on it with same results, Freon gone a few months later. Through 2017 spent between $3k and $4k , everything from converting to R134a, new clutch and compressor, multiple checks for leaks and replacing fittings. Finally gave up - R12 and R134a both would never stay in it.
For 2 years  now I have a 1995 U240 with no cooling at all, and I have been afraid to even try to have it fixed. End result - for 17 years of driving FT I have never had success with dash air and no longer count on it.  Use the generator and roof air.
This thread has eased my worry over it - I never before realized that's just the way it is.
Thanks to all contributors.
Doyle
95 U240 #4650
06 Honda CRV