Skip to main content ↑ ↓
Topic: Steer axel wheel stud question  (Read 954 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Steer axel wheel stud question

Reply #20 –
The reason in my reply that they must tighten up to be good, comes from previous posts where the pulling force from the larger diameter lug nut actually pulled the threads out of the inner nut or inside threads of the stud. The stud's in question are all in a row and must be addressed. Your original posts states that the inner nuts tightened up, but because he knocked them back in I would make sure they are not stripped by torquing them.

Re: Steer axel wheel stud question

Reply #21 –

Somehow, maybe by checking a new replacement stud, find the overall length of a new stud.  Then measure the overall length of your studs.  If your studs are longer than they used to be, bin them and replace them with new.  Once you stretch the studs, you are into a no-man's land of guesswork, where the only thing certain is that the studs no longer have the strength they originally had.

On torque to yield bolts, when measuring the length, a micrometer is used.  When that can't be done, so many degrees of rotation after an initial torque value is reached.  Either way, torque to yield fasteners are one time only fasteners.

Re: Steer axel wheel stud question

Reply #22 –
Quote from: Old Toolmaker –
Somehow, maybe by checking a new replacement stud, find the overall length of a new stud.  Then measure the overall length of your studs.  If your studs are longer than they used to be, bin them and replace them with new.  Once you stretch the studs, you are into a no-man's land of guesswork, where the only thing certain is that the studs no longer have the strength they originally had.

On torque to yield bolts, when measuring the length, a micrometer is used.  When that can't be done, so many degrees of rotation after an initial torque value is reached.  Either way, torque to yield fasteners are one time only fasteners.

From other posts these studs strip the studs or nuts on the inside of the hub, before stretching.

Re: Steer axel wheel stud question

Reply #23 –
Maybe loctite some new retainer nuts.  For some odd reason, it seems as tho the tq value for the outer nut is higher then the inner retainer nut.
  If the outer is over torqued then they will pull out.
 Also  ** if your bus has left hand threads , make sure that the tech knows that fact... 

Re: Steer axel wheel stud question

Reply #24 –
Maybe someone mentioned this, but my stretched studs were discovered when they could not torque them to 450 foot-pounds. 

George

Re: Steer axel wheel stud question

Reply #25 –
Quote from: George Hatfield –
Maybe someone mentioned this, but my stretched studs were discovered when they could not torque them to 450 foot-pounds. 

George
George, were they stretched, or did they pull through the nuts?

Re: Steer axel wheel stud question

Reply #27 –
Craneman... good question and I really don't know the answer.  I remember they are not easy to get out, that is for sure.  Does the photo of the stud in my post show anything?  When looking at that pic keep in mind that some damage may have been done in the process of removing the damaged stud.

George

Re: Steer axel wheel stud question

Reply #28 –
hdff,
 Pardon my French, but there's no way in hell the stud, top left, in the OP pic stretched that much. The back nut and/or stud are stripped, the stud is broken (unlikely), or the nut backed off. Take the nuts off the proud studs and inspect the threads of the nuts and studs. If the nuts are stripped, but studs are good, replace the nuts. If the studs are stripped or broken, get out your wallet. Either way, torque the back nuts to the proper spec. Watch "mechanic" like a hawk or, better yet, do it yourself. JMO

 Whatever it takes to make it right. This is not an area to do a questionable "fix" on.

Re: Steer axel wheel stud question

Reply #29 –
Quote from: George Hatfield –
Craneman... good question and I really don't know the answer.  I remember they are not easy to get out, that is for sure.  Does the photo of the stud in my post show anything?  When looking at that pic keep in mind that some damage may have been done in the process of removing the damaged stud.

George
Your picture shows the stud stripped.

Re: Steer axel wheel stud question

Reply #30 –
The inner nuts are 250#, the wheel nuts are 350 -400 or  a little less greased.  450 or more with a nasty impact should pull the inner threads,every time. IMHO. 400# with a torque wrench should be the upper limit .
  The splines only reduce the turning of the stud. 

Re: Steer axel wheel stud question

Reply #31 –
Quote from: Protech Racing –
  The splines only reduce the turning of the stud. 
The splines are a manufacturing "cheat."  Precision is expensive and both sides, the hole and the stud are less expensive to manufacture using splines to insure a press fit.
 

Re: Steer axel wheel stud question

Reply #32 –
In this case, the shank of the stud has a straight knurl. Somewhat similar in appearance to splines. Splines are (normally) machined and/or ground. Knurling is a forming process (metal displacement), used for a variety of reasons. In the case of our wheel studs, the reasons given in the 2 previous post are correct, except that the knurl is intended to prevent the stud from rotating.