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Topic: Residential Refrigerator Insulation and Venting (Read 749 times) previous topic - next topic

Residential Refrigerator Insulation and Venting

Planning to remove our Dometic NDR1492 this weekend and install a 17.5 cu ft French Door Samsung.

I have seen a few different sets of installation pictures. The new frig is narrower than the old one. I may build a slim cabinet on the side like Roger did. Should I add foam board insulation on the space the frig will slide into? If I do but leave the roof vent open, what good is the Insulation? So, should I seal the roof opening and the side vent cover? (I think I will seal the side vent area, but not sure about the roof.) It looks like the Samsung will vent on the bottom. I saw one post that said they cut a vent into the basement, sounds like a good idea.

Thank you for your comments,

Ed
2003 U320 4010 - SOLD
2014 RAM 1500 Ecodiesel

Re: Residential Refrigerator Insulation and Venting

Reply #1 –
Just remember you cannot destroy heat, only move it. So if you cannot move it outside the coach, it will stay inside the coach.
Jim C.
coachfree, previous 1997, 1999, 2000, and 2003 Foretravels.

Re: Residential Refrigerator Insulation and Venting

Reply #2 –

With my Samsung, I've completely sealed the exterior roof and the exterior wall refrigerator vents with silver HVAC tape.  That works just fine.  There is no need for wall insulation.

The refrigerator as you say will vent out below.  Because the Samsung is so well insulated and uses such little power, you will notice little heat coming out under the refrigerator.  I generally keep the the kitchen vent, over the stove, open, except at night, as our bodies give off a couple quarts of water each day.

Do not cut a hole into basement area as this would not be safe for many reasons.  The hole would be a source for fumes and could become a fire chimney in the event of a basement fire.

Installed as above my Samsung uses approx 1.5 to 2.4 kwh per day over a 30 day period.  Most days, and near the average is 2 kwh per day.This depends on number of times the doors are opened and closed, and the temperature inside the rv.

The following graphs are the low and high over my most recent 30 day period of time, with as I said, most usage right at 2 kwhs per day.

From the installation sheet:
"Installation clearances. Allow 3.75" of clearance when installing along a wall.
This will allow for the door to open 90 degrees without the handle contacting the wall.
Allow 2" minimum clearance at rear for proper air
circulation and water/electrical connections. Allow a 3/8" minimum clearance at sides and top for ease of installation.
For optimal usage and ability to open refrigerator doors completely, do not install next to a wall.
Please note: The above dimension and cutout information is for planning purposes only. For complete installation details,consult manual packed with product,or downloadmanual online at samsung.com."

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Re: Residential Refrigerator Insulation and Venting

Reply #3 –
The roof vent would not be needed because it acts as a vent for the heat generated especially on propane cooling, would it not be better to seal the exterior wall vent since the refrigerator is designed to operated inside a heated home and has a constant condensate draining on to the compressor that has to evaporate it, the open vent may stop this action causing a wet floor under the refrigerator.
- just surmising ???
David & Emma Roche
Dino (Golden Doodle)
1999 U270 WTFE 36' Build # 5534
Xtreme "Lights, Stripes & Roof"
Motorcade# 18321
Dayton, Ohio
Towd: Jeep Grand Cherokee
Two Townie Electra Bikes

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Re: Residential Refrigerator Insulation and Venting

Reply #4 –
When I installed our Samsung refrigerator I sealed the outside openings. The refrigerator is designed to work in an indoor environment and so that's what I provided for it. I have used cut2sizemetals.com on several projects for both aluminum and stainless steel and it's an excellent way to get the sheets you need in the size you need.
David and Carolyn Osborn
1995 U320C SE 40' Build 4726 Feb 1995
FMCA 147762
Motorcade 17186
 

Re: Residential Refrigerator Insulation and Venting

Reply #5 –
I've posted before about my '81 FT coming from the factory with an Amanna residential refrigerator. No roof vent or side vent and except for replacing it once around 1996 with a Whirlpool has worked and is still working great for 37 years now. I sealed the Monaco I owned when installing the Samsung and the '99 I have now had the roof sealed and painted and the side sealed when we bought it. Like posted above they don't need outside vents to work in a motorhome.
1999 40 ft. U-320 wtfe build 5563 Chuck & Lynda's "Rollin' Inn"  2030 watts solar
prev. mh's 71 GMC 5 yrs. 73 Pace Setter 1 yr. 78 Vogue 5 yrs 81 FTX 40ft all electric 18 yrs. 1996 Monaco Signature 3 yrs.
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland
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