Skip to main content ↑ ↓
Topic: Replacing Atwood Water Heater (Read 1766 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater

Reply #25 –
Not sure where your on off switch is on your '95 U280, my '97 U295 electric hot water is a red switch down around the base of the bedroom bed, next to the circuit breakers.  It will light up red when on.

I have two of these, one is marked hot water, the other, block heater. My hot water switch is on the left, as you face the bed base.
97 U295 40, Build #5040, 6C8.3 325 HP
Oregon Continuous Traveler
Samsung Residential #RF20HFENBSR,
Xantrex SW2012, (3)AGM8D Hse, (2)AGM Grp24 Eng, Victron BMV-712, 1800w Solar 4 LG & 2 Sunpower
Extreme Full Body Pt w/hdlmps, new furn/floor, 4 down Lexus 2004 GX470 AWD curb weight 4,740 lbs
Prev: 1990 Barth, 10L 300 2 yrs; 91&92 Monaco Signature, 10 yrs, 10L C 300 &  6C8.3 300; 1997 ForeT 6C8.3 325 since May 2017.  Employed by Guaranty RV 14+ yrs.  Former VW New Car Dlr/Service Dlr, Sales Mgr, Rv Sales, and Service Adviser from 1968-2017
"Don't criticize what you can't understand" Bob Dylan

Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater

Reply #26 –
The Attwood electric element on/off switch in my 1995 U320 is on the front wall of the bed frame by the 129 vac circuit breaker boxes.  No automatic change over.
Rudy Legett
2003 U320 4010 ISM 450 hp
2001 U320 4220 ISM 450 hp
1995 U320 M11 400 hp
1990 Granvilla 300 hp 3208T
Aqua Hot Service Houston and Southeast Texas

Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater

Reply #27 –
Quote from: defendertx –
As you know, I have a GCH10A-2E.  This means gas, electric, and engine coolant modes.  Is there a way to "force" it into electric mode?
Mark,

You may be thinking that you can only use one heating mode at a time - propane or electric.  AFAIK, they are independent of each other.

So, if you turn on the "WATER HEATER" switch in the bathroom or kitchen (some coaches have two switches), the propane burner will either light or wait in stand-by, depending on how hot the water is at that time.

If you are using propane mode, taking a couple of showers and want to maximize the hot water recovery rate, you can also turn on the electric heating element (if you are plugged in or running generator).  The separate power switch is on the bed base (see above).  Then you will be using both heating modes, and the water will heat (or re-heat) that much faster.

When you are plugged into shore power it is more economical to use the electric mode alone because you are already paying for the electricity.  In that case, you could add the additional heat from the propane mode if you desired more rapid recovery.

Use whichever heat source makes the most sense at the time, and don't be afraid to use both modes simultaneously when required.

The OPINION above pertains to my understanding of how Atwood water heaters work.  Other brands may operate differently.
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater

Reply #28 –
Quote
you can also turn on the electric heating element

Just have to remember to turn it off which I have neglected to do many times. Why Foretravel put that switch and the engine heater switch down low, at the foot of the bed and covered with a bed skirt will remain a mystery.
jot
93 225
95 300
97 270
99 320

Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater

Reply #29 –
jor,

Are your two switches labeled so you can tell which is which?
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater

Reply #30 –
Quote
Are your two switches labeled so you can tell which is which?

Yes, all of mine have been factory labeled. For the block heater I eliminated the outlet in the engine compartment so when you flick that switch you are for sure turning on the block heater.
jor
93 225
95 300
97 270
99 320

Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater

Reply #31 –
One of my pups, 100 pound Buddy, likes to lie down the foot of the bed. I thought my electric water heater was toast. I ordered a new heating element and the tool to replace it.... then figured out Buddy was shutting it off for me.
1993 U300 40ft GV SE
Build # 4344

Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater

Reply #32 –
The new Atwoods aren't compatible with the old. One was 110volt and one is 12volt ignition. There has to be some wiring changes the way I understand it
1996 U295-36, Cummins 300hp, 8.3. Build number 4864. Vin number 1F97D536XTNO54271. Purchased October 31, 2019.

Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater

Reply #33 –
I've attached posibly your manual, (printer_output, file at end of my post). I agree the manual really does not easily spell out how to wire. That is probably because they expect a tech to do the install using just the wiring diagrams provided in the manual.

This looks like the water heater you bought for $600.  If it is your installer must have blocked off your heat exchanger hoses.  How do you turn off and on the gas heat now? A picture from you would help.
Atwood GCH10A-4E Gas & Electric 10 Gallon RV Water Heater with Heat Ex –...

You will find wiring smple to do once you understand the following wiring diagrams. The hard part will now be to get to the required wires.  If you have manual, follow instructions that are in the manual that came with your new hot water heater.  If not, the file at the end, printer_output, may be your manual.

Also you will need a 12 Volt switch like this one I used when installing my new Arwood hot water heater.  Your hot water heater should of come with a similar switch in white.
Atwood 91270 OEM RV Dual Panel Switch - Google Search

Your old 110 volt wire will hook up to the hot water heater as shown in the wiring diagram. The 12 volt switch will control both the electric and gas operation.

I can not imagine you doing this, without removing the water heater again. This is because you will need to find the unconnected wires they left and see where they left your previous 110V wiring.

I would expect you to find the 110v wires either sticking out of or tucked in the relay box on the rear of your heater.
97 U295 40, Build #5040, 6C8.3 325 HP
Oregon Continuous Traveler
Samsung Residential #RF20HFENBSR,
Xantrex SW2012, (3)AGM8D Hse, (2)AGM Grp24 Eng, Victron BMV-712, 1800w Solar 4 LG & 2 Sunpower
Extreme Full Body Pt w/hdlmps, new furn/floor, 4 down Lexus 2004 GX470 AWD curb weight 4,740 lbs
Prev: 1990 Barth, 10L 300 2 yrs; 91&92 Monaco Signature, 10 yrs, 10L C 300 &  6C8.3 300; 1997 ForeT 6C8.3 325 since May 2017.  Employed by Guaranty RV 14+ yrs.  Former VW New Car Dlr/Service Dlr, Sales Mgr, Rv Sales, and Service Adviser from 1968-2017
"Don't criticize what you can't understand" Bob Dylan

Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater

Reply #34 –
Quote from: defendertx –
Howdy Everyone!

Its the weekend, and I'm working on the RV :-)

OK, silly question:  As you know, I have a GCH10A-2E.  This means gas, electric, and engine coolant modes.  Is there a way to "force" it into electric mode?  I've read through the documentation and don't see anything about that condition.  I've turned the propane "off", so there is no gas getting to the water heater.  Now, what I want to do is "force" it to try heading with electricity.  I assumed, maybe incorrectly, that merely turning off the propane would cause the water heater to sense that it would not light, and then try electricity next.  But, I'm not really sure about it.  RV is powered by a 50 Amp circuit, and all other electrical devices are working.  Anyone have any insight?

Thanks!

Mark

Mark,
If your 94 U280 has the same WH as our 95........... then the gas and electric controls are completely separate systems.

The propane side uses a T-stat and a Hi-limit cut-off mounted to the front of the tank next to the igniter control box. The switches in the kitchen and bath provide power to these controls. If you don't want the propane to heat the tank then just leave these off.

Power to the 120 volt element in the back of the tank is controlled from the lighted switch at the foot of the bed. It supplies power to the t-stat and hi-limit controls on the back side of the tank. Don't forget there could also be a "on" off" switch mounted to the back side of the water heater also, in the same j-box as the romex wire connects to the WH.

If you have the switches "on" and the t-stat is calling for heat then you should be good to go. UNLESS the hi-limit has tripped (requires resetting manually by pushing a itty bitty button on the hi-limit itself) BE SURE POWER IS OFF AT THE MAIN SWITCH AT THE FOOT OF THE BED BEFORE POKING AROUND THRU THE ACCESS HOLE IN THE BAY.

If it still doesn't heat on electric.......... and its the original (20 plus years old) the ELEMENT could and should need replacing.

I pulled mine out after our last trip and replaced the element, hi-limit and t-stat. The tank looked good inside so I rinsed it well and installed the new 1000 watt element. Also installed a new Dinosaur control board for the propane side with new t-stat and hi-limit for it also. Re[placed the temperature and pressure pop off valve and drain plug too.

While it was out ...... figured it was a good time to replace the Motor-aide 1/2" shut off valve. Taking advice from this forum, (thanks Don) I went to NAPA and picked up two brass water hose fittings (not the barbed type). Works fine, no leaks  ^.^d

I purchased the Dinosaur board from e-bay, around $125, all of these "parts" was around $200 and a Saturday spent doing the work myself. Should be trouble free for many more years.  8)

FWIW........... We really like having the Motor-aide option, and the new Dinosaur control board with the LED indicating lights is a nice upgrade too.

EDIT: if you pull the WH out, might as well replace the electric element and its t-stat and hi-limit cut out switches. Easy to do then, difficult to do if trying to access thru the small inspection hole in the bay.


 
Justin & Cathy Byrd
1995 U280 "Old Faithful"
36' Build #4673
C8.3 Cummins
Allison MD3060R 6 speed - retarder
Powertech 10KW  4cyl Kubota

Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater

Reply #35 –
Quote from: defendertx –
Howdy Everyone!

Its the weekend, and I'm working on the RV :-)

OK, silly question:  As you know, I have a GCH10A-2E.  This means gas, electric, and engine coolant modes.  Is there a way to "force" it into electric mode?  I've read through the documentation and don't see anything about that condition.  I've turned the propane "off", so there is no gas getting to the water heater.  Now, what I want to do is "force" it to try heading with electricity.  I assumed, maybe incorrectly, that merely turning off the propane would cause the water heater to sense that it would not light, and then try electricity next.  But, I'm not really sure about it.  RV is powered by a 50 Amp circuit, and all other electrical devices are working.  Anyone have any insight?

Thanks!

Mark


There has be a switch somewhere to provide the AC power to the heating element. Unfortunately due to differences in our coaches, I do not know where your Water Heater Electric Switch is, but maybe someone with a similar setup can chime in.

Guy
2000 U320 4010 WTFE #5609
2017 Ford Explorer toad
Current RVSA Certified RV Technician
Previous 2001 Forest River Windsong 340

Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater

Reply #36 –
Howdy Everyone!

Thanks for point out the switch under the bed.  I went in the coach this morning, and there it was - shut off.  I turned it on, the red light in the switch turned on, and then went to the sink and turned on the hot water switch.  After waiting patiently for 30 minutes - nothing.  :-(  Clearly something is still not right with the electrical side.  But, now that I know about that switch, I can start troubleshooting with the multi-meter.  While I probably should just replace the thing and get on with life, I figure this might be a good learning experience for me.  If I do decide to replace it, I might as well practice on the bad one to see if I can figure out what is wrong because I might have to someday do it with a new one.  Plus, I'm kind of embarrassed about being such a newbie.  No time like the present to start down the path of fixing that.  Stay tuned - more to come on the trials and tribulations of the water heater!  Good thing the RV is in my driveway and not on the road somewhere.

Mark
 
1994 U280 Grandvilla, 40ft.
League CIty TX
Newbie :-)

Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater

Reply #37 –
On edit after reading the two posts immediately below:

The switch (if only one) at the foot of the bed turns on power to the outlet in the engine compartment.  The block heater is plugged into this.

 If two switches, one is block heater, the other the water heater electric element.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater

Reply #38 –
Quote from: wolfe10 –
The switch at the foot of the bed turns on power to the outlet in the engine compartment.  The block heater is plugged into this.
Must depend on the model year, or perhaps what model water heater was originally installed at factory.

Jack, Rudy, jor and Justin (Reply #25, #26, #30 & #34) have TWO switches on the bed base - one is for the electric water heater.

Our '93 U280 does not have two switches - only one switch for the block heater.  But, our coach only came from the factory with a 6 gallon propane-only water heater (plus MotorAid option).  Since it did not come with a 2-way (gas and electric) water heater, I figured that was why we do not have the extra switch.

Mark (the OP) says he has a 10 gallon 2-way water heater, so I figured his coach would also have two switches.  Apparently it does not.
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater

Reply #39 –
Quote
have TWO switches on the bed base - one is for the electric water heater.

Yea, here's a photo of our 300. Our 320 also had the two switches. Can't remember if the 225 did or not.
jor
93 225
95 300
97 270
99 320

Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater

Reply #40 –
Howdy!

Looking at mine, it DOES have two switches - the switch on the left is labeled "Water Heater" and the switch on the right is labeled "Engine Block".  Apparently, I have two switches.  :-)

Mark
1994 U280 Grandvilla, 40ft.
League CIty TX
Newbie :-)

Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater

Reply #41 –
Mark,

A suggestion:  Update your signature to indicate what coach you have.  That will result in more accurate information for YOUR coach.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020
 

Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater

Reply #42 –
search our Foreforum

you will find photos and story for those including ourselves that have done exactly what you are doing.