Re: Bad Isolator? Reply #25 – March 17, 2014, 04:08:38 pm My approach to diode isolator and boost solenoid use is as "KISS" as it can get. I do not use them, and while they are still mounted in my coach, they are not connected.I have one three 8D battery bank, which provides 12 volt power to coach circuits and to chassis circuits. These three 8D batteries are deep cycle batteries which will provide more cold cranking amps than the three Red Top start batteries Foretravel installed to power the chassis circuits. For this to be successful, you must carefully manage the state of charge of your batteries. I keep my batteries charged with solar panels, and have installed an amphour meter on each battery.If you use solar panels and your batteries are fully charged each day, give my approach a try, it works very well for me. Quote Selected
Re: Bad Isolator? Reply #26 – March 17, 2014, 05:26:01 pm Quote from: P. Wyatt Sabourin – March 17, 2014, 04:08:38 pmMy approach to diode isolator and boost solenoid use is as "KISS" as it can get. I do not use them, and while they are still mounted in my coach, they are not connected.I have one three 8D battery bank, which provides 12 volt power to coach circuits and to chassis circuits. These three 8D batteries are deep cycle batteries which will provide more cold cranking amps than the three Red Top start batteries Foretravel installed to power the chassis circuits. For this to be successful, you must carefully manage the state of charge of your batteries. I keep my batteries charged with solar panels, and have installed an amphour meter on each battery.If you use solar panels and your batteries are fully charged each day, give my approach a try, it works very well for me.And if a worst case sceneario hits, all batteries too dead to start the generator and the sun down, you still have the Suzuki and a set of jumper cables. Quote Selected
Re: Bad Isolator? Reply #27 – April 30, 2015, 12:36:34 pm What would happen if I connect a "Red" positive cable from Alternator connection post on the Battery Isolator directly on to Engine Battery "Positive" terminal while keeping everything in original "OEM" set up?I read through 3 post vs 4 post Isolator discussions (Thank you for great information!) perhaps it went over my head a bit ... I was thinking to replace my 20 year old 4 post Battery Isolator with a 3 post. Currently I have all new 4x6v Golf Cart battery set up for my house batteries and once they are charged over night they have almost 500amph. More than good enough to run the residential Fridge and a floor fan all day (that's how i travel to west cost last year. Once i was in CO there was no need for Gen to run the over head AC. So essentially I have two batteries one for Engine & "one" for House, what would be the advantage of having a 4 post Isolator. I am thinking 3 post is all it needs no?My problem is there is a .60v drop to engine battery. I discovered it by using a voltmeter on the Isolator. While Engine running, in idling mode (i was alone & could not get some one to rev it up to 2k rpm) on Isolator ALT post reads 12.40~12.60 (i know my Alternator is suspect too) House Batter Post & House Battery readings are same, same as ALT post reading. So that side is healthy. But the Eng Battery post side is 11.70~11.90 never 12v. It does go up to 12v when booster switch is turned on.Has anyone done Brett Wolf's "KISS" method, if so what brand/ kind of switch would i use? I rather charge my Engine battery when driving and leave the house battery charging to shore and Generator power. But I will still like to keep booster capability in place.Thank you for your help!AL Quote Selected
Re: Bad Isolator? Reply #28 – April 30, 2015, 02:21:13 pm Al,Be aware that it is NORMAL to have .6-.7 VDC drop across the battery isolator. SO, alternator should put out 14.7-15.0 VDC (measure at B+ terminal of alternator or center lug of isolator.The two outer lugs (to the battery banks should each read around 14 VDC (that .6-.7 VDC lower than the center lug).Now, if one outer lug reads substantially lower, then the other, THAT is a problem (assuming that battery bank is good and not deeply discharged). Quote Selected
Re: Bad Isolator? Reply #29 – January 26, 2021, 10:05:14 pm Good day,Thinking I would like some advice to the following question. Looking at the attached picture can anyone advise by looking at the isolator which side is going to the start batteries and which side is going to the house batteries. The isolator does not have any labeling. I am installing a new cole hersee 200 amp continuous isolator as well a new cole hersee 200 amp solenoid. ALSO do these cables look ok or would I be better advised to replace the orange cables shownMy coach is stored for the winter so I can not crawl in to check the connections... Quote Selected
Re: Bad Isolator? Reply #30 – January 26, 2021, 10:29:18 pm Doesn't matter on the house and start whwhich outside terminal they go on. The center cbl is from the alternator. The cable definitely need a good cleaning, aside from that no way other than a voltage drop test under a load. Quote Selected
Re: Bad Isolator? Reply #31 – January 26, 2021, 10:42:37 pm Compare the little white labels on the cables to your schematic and you can quickly see which goes to which bank. Your cable lugs probably just need cleaning. The isolator panel is in a terrible location so frequently needs attention so everything is trouble free. Take a phone photo before taking anything off so it goes back on correctly. The previous owner of ours had mixed everything up.Lots of ways to clean up cable lugs. I've even used a hand held HF sandblaster with sand, beads or shells.Pierce Quote Selected
Re: Bad Isolator? Reply #32 – January 27, 2021, 08:15:15 am Other way to identify "which is which" is with a digital voltmeter. Very unlikely unless you have a battery combiner ON or boost switch ON for voltage to be exactly the same at each battery bank. Compare readings at the lugs with that at the batteries themselves. Quote Selected
Re: Bad Isolator? Reply #33 – January 27, 2021, 08:26:26 am I keep a small roll of emery cloth to polish cable ends. You can also use colored ty-raps to mark each cable & it's connection. After cleaning and re-connecting put a coating of dielectric grease. Quote Selected
Re: Bad Isolator? Reply #34 – January 27, 2021, 08:55:31 am Or get a no oxide electrically conductive terminal grease.NO-OX-ID "A Special" Conductive Terminal GreaseOne container will last a long time. Quote Selected 1 Likes
Topic: Bad Isolator?