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Topic: Ignition Switch Issues (Seeking Help for Solution) (Read 670 times) previous topic - next topic

Ignition Switch Issues (Seeking Help for Solution)

Have used some info found on forum search to TS my balky starting system. But can't find info on removing the ignition switch for replacement. I used the hitech paper clip tool inserted in the small round hole next to the key (key turned to CCW location) but cannot remove the keyed portion of the switch. This apparently prevents complete removal of the face plate and consequently the switch assembly.

Any assistance appreciated.
David & DC
97 U320 40' WTBI M11 450 #5153
01 Wrangler Sport
Near Palacios, TX

Re: Ignition Switch Issues (Seeking Help for Solution)

Reply #1 –
Have you verified that it IS the ignition switch vs the ignition solenoid?

They can present with the same symptoms.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Ignition Switch Issues (Seeking Help for Solution)

Reply #2 –
Replaced the solenoid behind the passenger side bulkhead - no luck. The problem has become increasingly worse to the point where the ignition switch does not even turn on any dash or shift pad lights. I have a digital gauge in the cigarette lighter accessory that was dropping from ~13.5 to below 10 when ignition activated. It now goes blank in the same process & reading at solenoid across the 2 small terminals in the range of 4v last time starter switch was functional. Starting batteries and house batteries (tried boost to aid start previously) and charged to about 13.5 and have charger/maintainers on. I admit to being electrically challenged so any additional help is appreciated.
David & DC
97 U320 40' WTBI M11 450 #5153
01 Wrangler Sport
Near Palacios, TX

Re: Ignition Switch Issues (Seeking Help for Solution)

Reply #3 –
Sounds like you may have a bad connection between chassis battery and the ignition solenoid.

What is voltage reading at the IN and OUT large lugs of the ignition solenoid when you jump from the IN side to the positive small terminal (remove existing wire, so it does not "back feed" the ignition switch)? Electrically you have just done what the ignition switch does. Even a small gauge wire may be used to jump it, as very low amp draw.

BTW, the dash gauges, Allison shift pad, etc are all powered by the ignition solenoid.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Ignition Switch Issues (Seeking Help for Solution)

Reply #4 –
Isn't the ignition solenoid behind the panel in front of the passenger seat?
1997 U270 36'
Build #5115
2014 Jeep Rubicon towed
1972 Boston Whaler 16'
Charlie

Re: Ignition Switch Issues (Seeking Help for Solution)

Reply #5 –
Sorry for the delay - have to go to coach & back. Tried to add a picture from my phone but not able to.

I disconnected wire from the pos small terminal (right side of solenoid) and attached jumper. When I jump to the "out" lug (large cable side I get 0v. Reading across the lugs with no jumper I get 14.2v (same as chassis bats.
David & DC
97 U320 40' WTBI M11 450 #5153
01 Wrangler Sport
Near Palacios, TX

Re: Ignition Switch Issues (Seeking Help for Solution)

Reply #6 –
Quote from: Want2rv –
Isn't the ignition solenoid behind the panel in front of the passenger seat?
That's the one we are working with.
David & DC
97 U320 40' WTBI M11 450 #5153
01 Wrangler Sport
Near Palacios, TX

Re: Ignition Switch Issues (Seeking Help for Solution)

Reply #7 –
Yup, jumping from chassis battery lug of the ignition solenoid is the "work around" for a  bad ignition switch or wiring between switch and  solenoid.  Even a 6" 16 gauge wire with alligator clips on the ends can  work, though ring connectors are better for road vibration.

I don't have the wiring diagram for your coach, but I would next unplug the ignition switch and check for power IN and then power OUT.

At least on the diagram for the 1993 240 the IN comes from the chassis battery side of the ignition solenoid and the OUT goes to the small signal terminal on the ignition solenoid.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Ignition Switch Issues (Seeking Help for Solution)

Reply #8 –
Turned out to be bad connections at switch. Hope the problem was all external on the switch - still not able to disassemble it.
All lights, guages, fixtures and appliances in dash area are functional now and startup is back to normal. Guess it is a lot to expect of 24 year old connections to still be tight & clean.

Shouldn't take more than another 24 years to clean & tighten the "mega"connections on this coach.

Thanks for your guidance.
David & DC
97 U320 40' WTBI M11 450 #5153
01 Wrangler Sport
Near Palacios, TX

Re: Ignition Switch Issues (Seeking Help for Solution)

Reply #9 –
If I remember right this tool will do the trick. Used to remove the bezel around the ignition switch and head switch on my '71 Chevy truck. Available in any old truck parts catalog



Keith
The selected media item is not currently available.Keith & Jo
2003 U320T 4025 PBBS Designer series
Build 6203    Cummins 500hp
2000 U320 4010 WTFE / Build 5762 —Sold—
Motorcade #18070   
Pasadena, Texas
2015 Jeep Wrangler Sahara-Sunset Orange pearl coat
Don't argue with a fool, people watching might not be able to tell the difference.

Re: Ignition Switch Issues (Seeking Help for Solution)

Reply #10 –
That works fine to unscrew the bezel but it appears that it won't come completely off without removing the keyed section. I thought a paper clip in the small hole next to the key would release it but not having any success. I can feel the ball indenting against a spring but I can't get the keyed section to release. May be corrosion?
David & DC
97 U320 40' WTBI M11 450 #5153
01 Wrangler Sport
Near Palacios, TX

Re: Ignition Switch Issues (Seeking Help for Solution)

Reply #11 –
Quote from: oldgrayrider –
That works fine to unscrew the bezel but it appears that it won't come completely off without removing the keyed section. I thought a paper clip in the small hole next to the key would release it but not having any success. I can feel the ball indenting against a spring but I can't get the keyed section to release. May be corrosion?
So with the switch in the off position insert the pin and rotate counterclockwise to the aux position with key, pull gently and you will be able to rotate past and the keyed assembly will be in your hand. Much easier with a key. Must drill out the brass key tumblers with a drill if you don't have a key before they will release and allow rotation, but you have your key so no drilling.
Scott
NAPA numbers of KS6603 for the switch mechanism and KS6491 for the lock cylinder
 

Re: Ignition Switch Issues (Seeking Help for Solution)

Reply #12 –
Quote from: dsd –
So with the switch in the off position insert the pin and rotate counterclockwise to the aux position with key, pull gently and you will be able to rotate past and the keyed assembly will be in your hand. Much easier with a key. Must drill out the brass key tumblers with a drill if you don't have a key before they will release and allow rotation, but you have your key so no drilling.
Scott
NAPA numbers of KS6603 for the switch mechanism and KS6491 for the lock cylinder
That is the technique I think I was trying - maybe just need a few more less aggressive attempts.
Now that things seem to be functioning normally I am reluctant to "fix" any more.
Thanks for the help & the PN's.
David & DC
97 U320 40' WTBI M11 450 #5153
01 Wrangler Sport
Near Palacios, TX