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Topic: Engine air filter / canister question  (Read 1072 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Engine air filter / canister question

Reply #21 –
I've replaced my vacuator valve when we originally picked up coach, can't find the number for it. Lots of good prior posts on this subject.
Scott

Re: Engine air filter / canister question

Reply #22 –
Quote from: Pierce & Gaylie Stewart –
So, you need both rubber gasket and hole in the filter end if you have a canister end like in the photo. The plastic tube leading to the restriction gauge is not shown in the photo but screws on the 90 degree fitting in the middle of the canister end.
What you state is a very important point.

On your '93 U300 the air filter is "standard flow" (outside to inside).  The air volume being monitored by the Filter Minder is on the inside of the filter.  The hole in the metal filter end allows the restriction gauge to measure the vacuum (if any) inside the filter.

On our '93 U280 the air filter is "reverse flow" (inside to outside).  The air volume being monitored by the Filter Minder is on the outside of the filter and inside the filter canister.  The tube to my restriction gauge comes off the exit pipe that leads from the canister to the turbo.  The air filter I use (AF954M) does have the hole in the small end metal cap, but on my coach it serves no purpose.  Since it is inside the rubber end gasket it also does no harm ( IE does not allow unfiltered air into the engine).

PS:  If your coach, like mine, has a reverse flow air filter, the air filter canister will not have a vacuator valve.  (Just to save you the effort of searching for it)

 

Re: Engine air filter / canister question

Reply #23 –
Sorry I missed that picture. I don't think there should be holes there, they don't make any sense.

Re: Engine air filter / canister question

Reply #24 –
Sintered filter in small fitting

Re: Engine air filter / canister question

Reply #25 –
I KNOW this thread is a bit confusing:

Discussion of two different "holes"-- one in the filter end so that the air filter minder can read accurately and the small ones shown in the first picture in the original post in the side of the canister itself.

And, of CRITICAL importance is which direction the air flows-- whether the intake/dirty side is toward the outside or center.  Neither is better/worse, but not understanding what you have can cost you a "dusted engine". 

Be careful out there!

Re: Engine air filter / canister question

Reply #27 –
Air filters, even the most expensive, are pretty cheap especially compared to a $25,000 repair bill for a dusted engine from a failed air filter. When our engine was dusted from a failed air filter (the wrong was was installed by the PO's service place) the Cummins engine tech who rebuilt my engine suggested that:

1) If the filter canister is opened then the filter has to be replaced. Don't open the canister unless you are prepared to replace the air filter.
2) Replace the air filter every three years (4 at most).  Open the canister, remove the old filter, very carefully and completely clean the canister interior and install the new air filter. Make sure you use the correct filter for the direction of air flow.

You can use the cheapest filters available or the most expensive, maybe $35 difference.  About $30 a year to change them every three years.  They don't need to be changed any more frequently than 3 year intervals.  Or you can hope your filter minder is working, when was the last time you looked at it?  It is your engine you are protecting. DWMYH.

Re: Engine air filter / canister question

Reply #29 –
So, here's the answer to the OPs question. That hole should have a screw with a split loom wire clamp in it as mine does.

Re: Engine air filter / canister question

Reply #30 –
Just finished installing my new air filter.

I was hoping the old air filter would not have the hole at the and and that would be the reason why my filter minder was not working, but as you can see in the picture it dId.

The filter housing was very dirty on the inside and I vacuumed it out first then wiped it down with a damp cloth several times until clean.

I found the installation of the new filter a little difficult since it is not supported on the inside and you have to lift the filter to get the cover on and maneuver it into place. Pretty sure it's sitting correctly.

I tried to remove the sintered bronze filter but could not break it free. Need to put some penetrating oil on it and will follow up.

Current mileage 113847

Re: Engine air filter / canister question

Reply #31 –
The splintered brass fitting is a 1/8 npt and yes I recall mine was tight also. Use a little heat from a propane torch will release the sealer. No need to remove if you can pass air threw it. Replace your vacuator valve, there cheap and if you ever were to be in deep water it will suck it in if it doesn't close. I've been thinking about the vacuator valve and I personally think I will just replace both of mine at filter change out. 10$ is a cheap insurance policy for four years. Yours is half that.
Scott
 

Re: Engine air filter / canister question

Reply #32 –
Thanks Richard I went out and looked at mine and I have the same hole. I will put a clamp there or plug the hole.