Re: Gas regulator Reply #25 – October 18, 2020, 07:49:12 pm Flue is clean. Also cleaned top tubes of absorption unit while I was in there. Mechanically brushed flue Quote Selected
Re: Gas regulator Reply #26 – October 18, 2020, 07:56:52 pm That swirler looks like new. I am guessing orfice or burner. Quote Selected
Re: Gas regulator Reply #27 – October 18, 2020, 08:31:37 pm Flue and burner area clean flame looks correct Quote Selected
Re: Gas regulator Reply #28 – October 19, 2020, 06:44:55 pm You could also check the pressure at the gas valve. Also remove the orfice and check that a gnat isn't in it. I have found that before. They are attracted to the smell of propane. Quote Selected 2 Likes
Re: Gas regulator Reply #29 – October 19, 2020, 06:56:14 pm Orfiice visually looks clean. Going to get the gage to verify gas pressure. I still am guessing it's low. Will chemically clean. Burner tube is also new looking. Cleaned. Need to find out what the operating pressures are also.. been busy updating windows in one of our houses. Too whooped to work on coach today.Scott Quote Selected 1 Likes
Re: Gas regulator Reply #30 – October 19, 2020, 09:41:22 pm What Do You Mean 11 inches of Water Column? | Good Sam Camping BlogSearched forum then internet. Just found this article that covers it well. They are saying 10.5 to 11 inches WC water column. Still need to confirm but have a direction. Also will verify flow after control solenoid not restricted. They also talk about adjustments in article. Scott Quote Selected
Re: Gas regulator Reply #31 – October 19, 2020, 11:24:44 pm Make your own gauge for $5. Lots more on YouTube if you don't like this one:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tWNFVRvbAqwPierce Quote Selected
Re: Gas regulator Reply #32 – October 20, 2020, 01:33:22 pm So checked gas pressure to being above 10WC. Went and removed gas solenoid on fridge and located a inlet screen. Cleaned and verified operation. Used brake clean on fuel nozzle. I believe I read that they are a ceramic jet and not to physically touch. They also refract the light going thru them like no other jet I've ever seen. Weird. Red Tractor mentioned how the swirler looked new. Low output would cause that. Reinstalled and I think there is substantially more gas flow now. Suspect I have solved my small flame problem. There is a test port on the valve marked .5 psi. It has been installed with lock tight and would have to be heated to remove. I tried a little but figure it would be better or not. I am guessing my stove may have a similar Inlet screen which I will eventually look for and clean.Scott Quote Selected
Re: Gas regulator Reply #33 – October 22, 2020, 11:54:26 am Follow up. Fridge at 1@37 degrees temp setting #2 on gas same as operating on ac. Problem fixed with cleaning Plugged fuel solenoid inlet screen.Scott Quote Selected 6 Likes
Re: Gas regulator Reply #34 – October 27, 2020, 10:57:16 am I followed up with ARP about my low flow and had I been able to navigate there web sight better I could of found my problem earlier. They responded and asked I mention the following link, links. It is covered very well and better than I would have ever done. I would of never imagined that operating under low LP flow was a fire hazard. These are genuinely good systems (Absorption cooling ) but I can't imagine operating them without a safety system backing up operating control and limits. Shame on the manufacturers not building this into there systems after the first fire. ARP has made a career out of their deficit. IMO Dometic Does Not Cool | Dometic LP Filter | Dometic Gas ValveMy LP low pressure filter at the fuel shut off solenoid was partially plugged. Cause my poor performance on gas issues.So has anyone ever cleaned there's?Scott Quote Selected
Re: Gas regulator Reply #35 – October 27, 2020, 11:10:07 am Quote from: dsd – October 27, 2020, 10:57:16 amMy LP low pressure filter at the fuel shut off solenoid was partially plugged. Caused my poor performance on gas issues.Good safety tip for OEM fridge owners. Plugging may be caused by "oil" accumulation in the gas lines. See link below for discussion.I believe there is also a filter on the gas fired cooktops that might need cleaning?Oil Accumulation in Propane System Quote Selected
Re: Gas regulator Reply #36 – October 27, 2020, 12:06:08 pm Quote from: Chuck & Jeannie – October 27, 2020, 11:10:07 am Plugging may be caused by "oil" accumulation in the gas lines. Particularly true with liquid tap propane generators! Quote Selected
Re: Gas regulator Reply #37 – October 27, 2020, 12:48:32 pm Quote from: Chuck & Jeannie – October 27, 2020, 11:10:07 amGood safety tip for OEM fridge owners. I believe there is also a filter on the gas fired cooktops that might need cleaning?Oil Accumulation in Propane SystemI agree. I had mentioned before but the down side won't kill you, just slow cooking.. it's on the list now but many others are before. I did drain several teaspoons of black oil out of the lower line at the regulator near the bottle. Nevertheless I am doubting few have ever cleaned there LP low pressure filter at the fuel solenoid valveScott Quote Selected 2 Likes
Re: Gas regulator Reply #38 – June 15, 2021, 09:44:42 am So updating this post. Problem is back.In re reading this post I'm going to order a new gas control valve and nozzle assembly and recheck regulator gas pressure.Just need to research part numbers.Works great on AC. Scott Quote Selected
Re: Gas regulator Reply #39 – June 15, 2021, 11:47:26 am Current fridge flame. Can blow out and Immediately restartsScottSide note never bend a good starrett scale. The are so hard and brittle they brake Quote Selected
Re: Gas regulator Reply #40 – June 15, 2021, 11:53:21 am Scott,From the rust below the burner tube, again, suggest you remove and clean it. Also, remove the gas jet and verify it is clean (do not use any metal tool on the jet).Very hard to "eyeball" whether the flame is sufficiently large to allow the refrigerator to cool properly.Said another way, the flame can be big enough to keep the thermocouple "satisfied" but still not providing enough BTU's for the refrigerator to operate properly.Again, basically you have gas pressure (house regulator) and clean propane jet and clean burner tube to achieve enough BTU's for the refrigerator to operate properly. OR one or more of these diminishing performance just a little leading to a larger BTU "shortfall". Quote Selected
Re: Gas regulator Reply #41 – June 15, 2021, 01:26:08 pm Brett I agree. I have cleaned burner tube prior and will order a new one. I've had the gas valve apart prior and did find the slintered brass screen restricted. Paul Unmack Had mentioned to check and it is in his video. Nozzle appears to be clean and used alcohol cleaner. Was working better prior. I'm going to replace valve, nozzle Assembly and burner tube. Currently ran gas for a hour and took measurements of temperature with ARP controller and just switched to electric to compare values. Both electric heating probes drawing 1.8 amps each. Will post numbers once I figure them out. It's already 100 degrees in the shade. When I ordered the ARP kit we added the fans and I asked to have a additional condenser cooling fan with the kit. They stated that I probably didn't need but wouldn't hurt having the Additional fan other than additional battery draw. They are saying 116 tomorrow oh joy!Scott Quote Selected 1 Likes
Re: Gas regulator Reply #42 – June 20, 2021, 02:03:00 pm So being frustrated with all my other distractions I finished cleaning the flue on the absorption fridge I started several days ago. Removed air tube and burner and ignition point. Removed upper cap on roof and pulled spiral swirler out from top with hooked wire. Placed clean paper towel under flue to capture cleaning junk. Brush is 67 inches long.So in looking at it flue was still clean IMO and realized that it exhausts inside the condoned air space of the coach directly on the gas tube heating it addionally before exiting the roof cap. About 18" below the top. I think I understand they are still heating the gas at that point just prior to condensing radiator. I curious if that half before it starts it's return and condensation would work better if it was inside a metal flue/augmenter that would actually help to draw additional air out of the conditioned space area and out the upper cap vent. I think this would reduce temperature on the condenser area because the thermal siphoning would be would draw the hot air out without letting it mix with the cooler condenser air? Blue mark would represent box areaScott Quote Selected
Topic: Gas regulator