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Topic: Powertech 10k oil change  (Read 855 times) previous topic - next topic

Powertech 10k oil change

At 1301 hours, I am about to do my scheduled first oil change on my "new to me" U320 PT10KW Generator.
I intend to change the oil and filter as well as the fuel filter. At this point is there any value to switching over to synthetic 15-40 oil for the change? I am aware of the additional cost, but would the easier starting with Syn oil be beneficial to the engine life?
Peter
Peter    Alberta Canada
'98 U320 40'  Build 5359 M11 450 HP, Aqua hot, Blu Ox

Re: Powertech 10k oil change

Reply #1 –
Quote from: dicksop –
At 1301 hours, I am about to do my scheduled first oil change on my "new to me" U320 PT10KW Generator.
I intend to change the oil and filter as well as the fuel filter. At this point is there any value to switching over to synthetic 15-40 oil for the change? I am aware of the additional cost, but would the easier starting with Syn oil be beneficial to the engine life?
Peter
I went to 100% synthetic on ours a few hours ago. On our trip last week, I started it at 6000 feet as we had a lot of fire smoke which cut the solar plus we were in trees.  There was quite a bit less exhaust smoke and smell than before. Might be slightly easier to start in winter. Expect it will extend engine life. On an engine that has run synthetic since new, there is still cross hatching visible after 100,000 miles.

There was no real additional cost as O'Reilly's had a sale.

Pierce
Pierce and Gaylie Stewart
'93 U300/36 WTBI
Detroit 6V-92TA Jake
1140 watts on the roof
SBFD (ret)

Re: Powertech 10k oil change

Reply #2 –
I have run the T-6 synthetic in my generator for years. Easier starting in cold weather with better cold oil flow is my main reason.
I also run the T-6 in the Cummings M11 and for the radiator cooling fans and power steering.
Its nice to have one oil stocked for everything.
1995 U320C SE 40'
Jeep 4x4 Commander - Limited - Hemi
"The Pack"  Yogi and Diesel our Airedales -  Charlie our Boxer/Akita mix. Gone but NEVER forgotten Jake our yellow Lab.
NRA Law Enforcement Firearms instructor - Handgun/shotgun
Regional Firearms instructor for national Armored Transp. Co.

Re: Powertech 10k oil change

Reply #3 –
Lon,
Is there much difference between the  T6 5-30 synthetic rather than say Delo 15-40 synthetic except the obvious?
Peter    Alberta Canada
'98 U320 40'  Build 5359 M11 450 HP, Aqua hot, Blu Ox

Re: Powertech 10k oil change

Reply #4 –
Others will have different opionions and disagree but all synthetics are not equal just as all dino oils are not equal,bottom of the bunch is probably the Walmart brand and the top is Amsoil,Amsoil having the most variety of choices and producing their own
line of filters.Just changed my generator oil yesterday and used the Amsoil signature series 15w40.
96 U270 BUILD 4810
85 380SL
Drummonds TN.

Re: Powertech 10k oil change

Reply #5 –
First 2 were the same survey,all were sold by Amazon,what a coincidence.
96 U270 BUILD 4810
85 380SL
Drummonds TN.

Re: Powertech 10k oil change

Reply #6 –
Quote from: John44 –
Others will have different opionions and disagree but all synthetics are not equal just as all dino oils are not equal,bottom of the bunch is probably the Walmart brand and the top is Amsoil,Amsoil having the most variety of choices and producing their own
line of filters.Just changed my generator oil yesterday and used the Amsoil signature series 15w40.
I've never been a huge fan of Walmart having driven across the U.S. several times and seeing what a superstore located out by the highway has done for local businesses. But, in reading battery reviews, etc., Walmart has done really well. Walmart like Costco, Winco buys from major companies in the respective product lines and there is no reason to think the quality is less.

Regarding Walmart oil, here is a take on the subject: Many people have a misconception that more famous brands have better quality motor oil, and they usually pay a lot just for the brand name. This may not be true, and a recent analysis performed by Blackstone Laboratories indicates that all motor oils are interchangeable. Blackstone Labs is the facility that many Foretravel owners send a sample of their oil to check for contamination.

Here is the site this was taken from: Supertech Oil Review - Who Makes it & How is the Quality?

Pierce
Pierce and Gaylie Stewart
'93 U300/36 WTBI
Detroit 6V-92TA Jake
1140 watts on the roof
SBFD (ret)

Re: Powertech 10k oil change

Reply #7 –
15/30 Delo straight mineral oil for me, as recommended by manufacturer, both Foretravel and Power Tech every 50 hrs or less (100 hrs recommended by factory).
Gen has 800 hrs, runs like a top, starts in even sub zero temp in the winter. It has a pre heat button for a reason.
These older antiquated diesel motor clearances weren't designed for synthetic oil's. Just like our 3126 Caterpillar engines.
Why mess with what works great? Oil is cheap.
Here come the haters!  ;D

Cheers
Chris
Chris and Tammy White  CDA Idaho
Previous owners 1997 U295 36' 3126 Cat 300 HP Build # 4998
Former Foretravel tech & RVIA certified tech
Former owner Custom Satellite home/RV satellites 
Former owner Vans LTD  van conversions
Unemployed, panhandler, drag racer NHRA #6348

Re: Powertech 10k oil change

Reply #8 –
Not a "hater" but the older engines are designed for a specific oil weight not dino or synthetic oils,have had these conversations
for years,some like and want to try synthetic some hate it for whatever the reason,some will say "I'll ask my mechanic"well if the mechanic has never tried synthetic how can he have a valid opionion,the other common answer is "I've had good luck with dino
oil",well maybe you will have better "luck" with synthetic,I'm sure there were many around when the tubeless tire came out,"I've
had good luck with tubes" or "I've had good luck with those wooden spoke wheels".The bottom line in my opionion is dino oil is
good,synthetic is better,you can have good luck with both.
96 U270 BUILD 4810
85 380SL
Drummonds TN.

Re: Powertech 10k oil change

Reply #9 –
Never a hater!! I just don't let friends drive drunk.  ;D  ;D  ;D  Conventional oils are great, especially if changed on a regular basis. Synthetic oils were introduced in 1990 to the mainstream by Chevron and only gradually gained popularity later in the decade until they are recommend by just about every car manufacture.

Our Foretravel main diesel engines are direct injection contrasting to the generator and most all cars with indirect injection. The combustion in these begins in a pre-combustion chamber and a glow plug is require in all of these engines or they won't start unless the ambient temps are very high. That's why the button is there.

Many of these "antiquated" diesels are still in production today with the same "old" clearances. Our Detroit 6V-92TA is only one of many still made today. Do you think Cummins and Detroit have reduced or changed clearances in their engines so a synthetic will work properly?

As an example, Shell Oil/s Rotella T6 has special anti-shear additives especially formulated for diesels. The primary job of an oil is to form a barrier between metal parts in the engine so they don't touch creating heat and wear. The synthetics just do the job better or MBZ would not recommend them. You only see synthetics in NASCAR races today. I'm always amazed that these engines can loose a lot of coolant or have the radiator blocked so the temps go over 300 degrees and are still able to run at 200 mph.

Our PowerTech has about 2000 hours now and when used as our primary power source for our house in the many PG&E blackouts, it also required the house windows be shut to keep the smell out. After changing to synthetic, it does not start any faster but produces much less visible smoke and the smell is almost gone. This was not a black smoke diesel smell but a blue smoke oil smell. Oil usage is about the same as before. In short, the viscosity is less but the protection is greater.

While many of the benefits may not be noticed in day to day use, my Kawasaki H1 with Amsoil was an example of the huge difference a synthetic can make. I went from smoking and fouling my spark plugs so I had to carefully prepare before racing anyone to a smoke free without spark plug fouling that instantly made it one of the most feared street bike in SoCal for quite a while.

Never a mean word or personal attack. I remember arguing every night at a restaurant/bar in Dortmund until the sun was coming up, sometimes yelling at each other but leaving with a smile and a pat on the back. So, I'm smiling writing this.  ^.^d  ^.^d  ^.^d

Pierce



 
Pierce and Gaylie Stewart
'93 U300/36 WTBI
Detroit 6V-92TA Jake
1140 watts on the roof
SBFD (ret)

Re: Powertech 10k oil change

Reply #10 –
Amsoil started selling in 1972 10w30.
96 U270 BUILD 4810
85 380SL
Drummonds TN.

Re: Powertech 10k oil change

Reply #11 –
Quote from: John44 –
Amsoil started selling in 1972 10w30.
I used their 2 cycle oil around 1970. Might have been a year or two later as I started with Klotz 2 cycle oil. My Suzuki PE250 went Barstow to Vegas twice with one of those oils. I still have it sitting under a tree and the cylinder head has never been off. Amazon.com: Klotz R50 Racing TechniPlate Synthetic 2-Stroke Premix Oil :.... All two strokes, Echo, Stihl, etc. at Home Depot have a bottle of synthetic oil included in the case.

Pierce
As an Amazon Associate Foretravel Owners' Forum earns from qualifying purchases.
Pierce and Gaylie Stewart
'93 U300/36 WTBI
Detroit 6V-92TA Jake
1140 watts on the roof
SBFD (ret)

Re: Powertech 10k oil change

Reply #12 –
Mobil 1 or Shell T-6 for me in most everything I own
1996 U295-36, Cummins 300hp, 8.3. Build number 4864. Vin number 1F97D536XTNO54271. Purchased October 31, 2019.

Re: Powertech 10k oil change

Reply #13 –
Quote from: dans96u295ft –
Mobil 1 or Shell T-6 for me in most everything I own

Mobile 1 was the worst in my fresh Caterpillar engine, started using oil again, and getting bad blow by prior to the last 4K mile oil change. I found out (no where on label) it was blended. Took it back, got 15/40 Delo straight mineral oil. Strange, because Cat oil is made by Mobil. But then as I read, straight Cat mineral oil, is not available in the USA. Only Europe etc.

The blow by immediately stopped, along with oil usage. Been 4K mile now, towing race car trailer etc. in 100 degree temps. Just not for me, it didn't impress me.

My all Aluminum Indy 540 engine, built for race (runs 8's in the 1/4). I used $160.00 an oil change Brad Penn oil. Looked like water after a run, oil pressure sucked. Went to Lucas mineral, oil pressure  happy, oil holds it body. Car runs the same number.

Now our 15' Dart, 0/20. I run Schaeffer's synthetic. Happy with that, manual calls for synthetic. Motor was designed for it. I realize many love Synthetics, just not for me. if it works for you, I would keep using it. Can't see running oil longer then 4-5K miles, no matter what the label on the bottle says.Oil is just too cheap. Is it going to hurt the engine changing the oil too much? The Dart called for 1st oil change at 10K miles. I changed it at 4K miles. Did I hurt the engine? I change it every 4K, or once a year. 5 qts oil and a filter are cheap insurance.

BTW, finally bought my wife a new Dart in late 15' because her Cavalier had 210K miles. Nothing wrong with the car, she just deserved a new car.Same thing with it, mineral oil, every 4K miles or once a year. No oil useage or smoke.

So back to the original question. Should I run synthetic in my Kubota 10K gen? I wouldn't, I don't. Mine is fine. Has someone else done it and it worked, awesome. If mineral works good, what advantage is synthetic going to do? All the 100's of oil changes I did on FT's as a tech, never put synthetic oil in engine or gen set for anybody.

Stopping an engine from smoking more, strange, because mineral has more body. But if it did, awesome. Maybe it needed an oil change, and had a stuck ring? Not going to change your mind, your not going to change mine. Just voicing my experience when asked. I'm not a hater, it was just a figure of speech.

Cheers
Chris
Chris and Tammy White  CDA Idaho
Previous owners 1997 U295 36' 3126 Cat 300 HP Build # 4998
Former Foretravel tech & RVIA certified tech
Former owner Custom Satellite home/RV satellites 
Former owner Vans LTD  van conversions
Unemployed, panhandler, drag racer NHRA #6348

Re: Powertech 10k oil change

Reply #14 –
As a rule of thumb most synthetic oil users change their own oil,one reason why you did'nt change it,most synthetics can take a much higher temp then dino oil meaning less oil coking in a turbo,which is the killer of most turbo's.Not exactly sure what you mean by the body of the oil but if you can tell a difference more power to ya.
96 U270 BUILD 4810
85 380SL
Drummonds TN.

Re: Powertech 10k oil change

Reply #15 –
Quote from: dicksop –
Lon,
Is there much difference between the  T6 5-30 synthetic rather than say Delo 15-40 synthetic except the obvious?

 I use the 5w-40 T6.

I don't really want to weigh into a big "whats the best oil" discussion I will leave it at; In MY OPINION, I feel there is a big difference in engine oil requirements when outside temps are taken into consideration. A cold engine parked up North or the Midwest or anyplace that the temps dip low thickens oil. Thickened oil flows slower, and puts a huge drag on the starter and batteries. Most engine wear results from a cold start/cold engine. My M11 takes a significant amount of time to warm up, especially in cold weather, much longer than my car engines. Quick engine oil flow is my goal.
Back in "the day" I had semi-race engines installed in my 66 Shelby GT-350 and my 1970 Pantera. Both engines had forged aluminum, high compression pistons that required significant piston to wall clearances. I don't remember any qualified synthetic oil back then and always preferred a straight weight oil, usually 40 weight. I still remember the slow cranking on cold days and the NO cranking on really cold days that that "thick" oil caused, and the concern I had waiting for the oil to thin down and flow.
Nowadays I won't put any of my engines through that.
I classify my oil the same as the blood that flows in my body, I don't want to starve any part of my body of blood, I don't want to starve any of my engines oil while they are cold.

1995 U320C SE 40'
Jeep 4x4 Commander - Limited - Hemi
"The Pack"  Yogi and Diesel our Airedales -  Charlie our Boxer/Akita mix. Gone but NEVER forgotten Jake our yellow Lab.
NRA Law Enforcement Firearms instructor - Handgun/shotgun
Regional Firearms instructor for national Armored Transp. Co.

Re: Powertech 10k oil change

Reply #16 –
Grace,just curious,what weight was the Mobil 1 and was that after the overhaul?
96 U270 BUILD 4810
85 380SL
Drummonds TN.

Re: Powertech 10k oil change

Reply #17 –
Quote from: John44 –
Grace,just curious,what weight was the Mobil 1 and was that after the overhaul?

Mobil Delvac 1300 diesel. Started with 15/30 recommended by Cat, then after 2 changes went 15/40. 5th oil change at 14K miles. is when the blow by and oil consumption started.
Would have never put it in the motor, had I seen the small print online (nothing on oil container)
Chris
Chris and Tammy White  CDA Idaho
Previous owners 1997 U295 36' 3126 Cat 300 HP Build # 4998
Former Foretravel tech & RVIA certified tech
Former owner Custom Satellite home/RV satellites 
Former owner Vans LTD  van conversions
Unemployed, panhandler, drag racer NHRA #6348
 

Re: Powertech 10k oil change

Reply #18 –
Quote from: John44 –
As a rule of thumb most synthetic oil users change their own oil,one reason why you did'nt change it,most synthetics can take a much higher temp then dino oil meaning less oil coking in a turbo,which is the killer of most turbo's.Not exactly sure what you mean by the body of the oil but if you can tell a difference more power to ya.

They had their oil changed by FT because that is what was required in their FT service book for warranty. If they changed to synthetic themselves, that may have voided their warranty. Did they? I don't know, maybe.Many were very anal about their $500K MoHo's. I was friends with many FT customers, went to dinner etc with them. Talked to them while servicing their coaches. No one ever cared about synthetic back then. If they did, never talked about it. There was no synthetic oil on the premises at the stores.

Body of oil means just that, Either it feels like sticky honey which to me is good. Especially when you can barely wash off your hands, after twenty 152 mph  1/4 mile hits at 7500 RPM's, diluted with methanol. Like Lucas mineral oil. Or Delo after several thousand miles of use in 100 degree temps towing..

Or watery and thin, not sticky, washes right off your hands easy.Like Brad Penn synthetic after one run down the 1/4 track. Pull the dipstick, and it runs off like hot water. I like sticky, full of body myself.

As for cold starts, the race car carries 13 qts of oil, three are in the accumulator, which pre oils the engine to 30 PSI. The Cat in moho, has. a block heater, so there is no reason for cold starts.Our Cat, doesn't even make a revolution, before it fires. To build heat quicker, simple put the moHo in gear, and load the engine. Otherwise mine will never go off cold, even in hot weather. The cooling system is that good. And yes, it has a new thermostat.

Like I said, if the oil you use, works for you, awesome. Go for it. But again, back to the original question. Should I put synthetic in my Kubota genset. I don't, manufacture doesn't call for it,so why?
Cheers
Chris
Chris and Tammy White  CDA Idaho
Previous owners 1997 U295 36' 3126 Cat 300 HP Build # 4998
Former Foretravel tech & RVIA certified tech
Former owner Custom Satellite home/RV satellites 
Former owner Vans LTD  van conversions
Unemployed, panhandler, drag racer NHRA #6348