Victron Orion-TR Smart battery to battery charger installation problems
My 8D lead acid coach batteries are on their last leg. Overnight in Quartzite with lots of propane heater use, a little TV watching I was consuming 90 to 115 amp hours with a resting voltage of 12.1 or less volts before the solar started kicking into gear. These are 240 amp hour batteries in parallel for a theoretical 480 amp hours of capacity, 240 amp hour useful to 50 percent.
I have a 1998 U270 with the mechanical C8.3. I'm converting to two 8d 300 amp hour lithium batteries. I've installed a Victron 30 amp non isolated Orion B2B charger to replace my original battery isolator. Following a schematic suggested by Roger who was at Q, I removed the original isolator, brought the engine alternator lead onto a new junction block, from there also connected a lead to the start battery via the original battery boost solenoid (start battery side) and added a lead from the new junction block to the input side of the B2B. The output side of the B2B went to the house side of the boost solenoid.
When I reconnected the start battery ground I got a big spark, the dash instrument lights came on (as if the key was in the ignition and turned on). After many disconnections of various leads it turns out this only happens when the alternator cable from the engine is attached to the new junction block. The engine starts, runs normally, and everything appears to work if the engine alternator lead is not in the system. It will also start and run if the alternator is connected and charges the chassis batteries according to the dash alternator gauge. But after turning the key off dash still lit up.
I'm stumped. Supposed to leave Albuquerque on Sunday. It's taken me a couple days to work through a bunch of combinations. Wondering if the original isolator had a diode that prevented voltage from flowing back toward the alternator and this is what causes my current problems. Very tired and frustrated.