Skip to main content ↑ ↓
Topic: RESIDENTIAL FRIDGE INSTALLATION REQUIREMENTS (Read 921 times) previous topic - next topic

RESIDENTIAL FRIDGE INSTALLATION REQUIREMENTS

We are considering replacing our 24 year old Norcold 982 absorption refrigerator with either the new Norcold Polar 10DC compressor fridge ($1530), Dometic DMC4101 12V DC ($1711), or a residential such as 10.1 Magic Chef ($330 to 440), Haier 9.8 ($500 to 658), or Isignia 9.8 cu ft at BestBuy ($409).  The RV 12-volt compressor units are hard to find, most are back ordered and not offered by many vendors. The Magic Chef is in good supply at Home Depot in both black and stainless and offered at a very good price. Added to residential is the cost of a dedicated inverter, wiring, etc.

The residential units all specify air flow at sides, top, and back. The Magic Chef 10.1, which many have installed, specifically says not for RV use or use with an inverter. My existing Norcold 982 is almost an exact match in size to the Magic Chef and Haier. I certainly wouldn't have the recommended airflow on sides or top, but plenty in the back. With 600 amps of lithium, I'm fairly confident that a decent quality pure sine inverter of adequate size would provide stable power. These residential units also don't like extreme hot or cold and are not recommended for use in a garage. I could control the flow of air through the back by reducing the lower vent and upper vent and use a muffin fan for additional air flow in hot weather. I have no room to go taller as the current fridge fits to the ceiling and my one and only furnace is below the fridge. I also don't have room to go wider as the fridge sits against the bathroom wall divider and microwave. Both the new 12V RV and residential fridges would give me nearly 2.0 cu ft storage capacity.

Has anyone taken the doors off a 10.1 cu foot residential and gotten it through the front door? Looks like I would have to remove the screen door to accomplish that and then it would be a tight fit.

What size inverter? Rated power input is 160W at 1.5 amps. Annual energy use is 297. One off grid website recommended multiplying annual energy use by 5 for inverter sizing, that would put me at 1500 watts for inverter.

Finally, is there any advantage to getting an inverter with a transfer switch that would go from shoreline power to inverted power? I have an outlet already behind the fridge, but it does not go through the current 2000 watt modified sine wave Xantrex Freedom 458. So, I could tie into that outlet for shore power and then let the inverter switch between inverted power or pass through. We spend about 40 percent of our time off grid.
1998 36 foot U270 Build No. 5328 WTFE, 900 watts solar, Victron controller, B2B, bat monitor, 600 AMPH lithium with 2018 Chevy Colorado toad, SKP #110239, Motorcade #17781, 2021 Escape 17B for when Coach is broken down and campsites are too small, retired and full-timer since Dec. 2020. Part of RV family since 1963.

Re: RESIDENTIAL FRIDGE INSTALLATION REQUIREMENTS

Reply #1 –
About the inverter with transfer switch, when you're plugged in your main inverter will/should supply the batteries with a continual charge that should keep up with the fridge's usage.  So I don't think it's necessary and will open up many more inverters to choose from. 
Forest & Cindy Olivier
1987 log cabin
2011 Roadtrek C210P
no longer 1999 36' U320 build #5522
2013 Rzr 570 & 2018 Ranger XP1000
2006 Lexus GX470
2011 Tahoe LT 4x4
Previous 1998 45' 2 slide Newell, 1993 39' Newell

Re: RESIDENTIAL FRIDGE INSTALLATION REQUIREMENTS

Reply #2 –
 I have the Insignia  9.3 or 9.8 .  24in wide (23.8)  Fit through my mid door  GV.  Draws  about 3 0- 70 watt running and 2-300 on start up .  I power it through a 2000 watt PSW inverter.
 Look for a post of mine. "What fridge fits through the door"

Re: RESIDENTIAL FRIDGE INSTALLATION REQUIREMENTS

Reply #3 –
How hard to get a plug off the existing inverter for the refrig?  I would upgrade and get a new sine wave inverter/charger for the complete coach. Then just use that one inverter for everything. 
2014 ih45  (4th Foretravel owned)
 1997 36' U295 Sold in 2020, owned for 19 years
  U240 36' Sold to insurance company after melting in garage fire
    33' Foretravel on Dodge Chassis  Sold very long time ago

Re: RESIDENTIAL FRIDGE INSTALLATION REQUIREMENTS

Reply #4 –
There is a inverter plug right by the fridge. There are two receptacles there one is through
the inverter and the other one is generator or shore power. 
Peter and Frieda Morin
1999 36ft. U320 Foretravel
Build # 5436
1998 Suzuki Sidekick Sport

Re: RESIDENTIAL FRIDGE INSTALLATION REQUIREMENTS

Reply #5 –
Put male outlet plug on Romex cable plugged into coach's inverter panel outlet, wired to new electric outlet behind fridge. Powered 10 cu ft fridge 24/7 for 10 years (fulltime) without problem, some dry camping like 2-weeks at Quartzsite. Used several 12v fans behind fridge to move air from oem side air vent to oem roof vent. Our fridge's condenser coils were open on rear of fridge.

Whirlpool fridge fit pretty much in where propane fridge was located, was fastened to reinforced floor, with home-made door latches, and all 4 edges sealed to cabinet. 2000-watt sine wave inverter not only has to power compressor, but also freezer's auto defroster.

Only problem with electric refrigerators is ice cream stays frozen, so we ate more ice cream...

Re: RESIDENTIAL FRIDGE INSTALLATION REQUIREMENTS

Reply #6 –
Realmccoy,  we installed a 10. LQ took the door of and the delivery guys from lowes brought it into the coach
SO far it has held up fine but I'm not impresses with the sheetmatal --the stainless on the door is very thin and the least little ding will make a little dent.  One thing to remember it the outside vent will need to be covered so if you are running generator you don't get fumes back in the coach.  I took a piece of 3/4 foam and fixed it so I could slide it open or closed.  If it's hot and we are stationary nothing running I open it if cold I close it
Chris
PS I helped juicesqueezer put a 15 samsung through the front door took 4 of us but we did it(with doors off)
1999 U 320 DGFE
Build Number 5523
Chris & Elka Lang
In the field, Lonoke AR

Re: RESIDENTIAL FRIDGE INSTALLATION REQUIREMENTS

Reply #7 –
We have a '93 U300 GV. We installed a 10.1 fridge last year. It fit through the door once they removed the walnut grab handle on the right side of the coach door frame. We (MOT)  installed a separate, small inverter for the fridge that lives in the cabinet below the fridge.

We love it and wished we made the change years ago. The interior capacity of the new fridge and freezer is much larger that the Dometic that we replaced. Exterior measurements are almost the same. An extra height inch was needed so they lowered the floor of the fridge cabinet by an Inch. Only the lower molding had to be cut so we lost no cabinet space and no doors had to be cut.

The best part....not worrying or dealing with the Dometic.

The only downsize to this change is that it limits our boondocking to 8-10 hours before we need to fire up the generator. We have 2 8D AGMs.
1993 U300 40ft GV SE
Build # 4344

Re: RESIDENTIAL FRIDGE INSTALLATION REQUIREMENTS

Reply #8 –
Realmccoy:

Last December when our Dometic refrigerator failed, we replaced it with the 10.1 cu ft Magic Chef from Home Depot. It went through our entrance door with its doors off. However, the old absorption refrigerator was too big to go through the entrance door even without its doors. To get it through the entrance door, we cut off all the plumbing behind it where the remaining ammonia circulated.  The ammonia leaked and stunk up the interior for a while. I plugged it into the same inverted outlet outlet that the ice maker is on. It draws less current that the ice maker. This winter in Texas with the outside temperature between 45 and 85 degrees, The freezer temps varied from -5 to +20 and the lower section varied from 24 to 40 degrees. (It is self defrosting). The refrigerator faced west and got the afternoon sun, yet performed very well and much better than the Dometic.  There is at least 1/4 to 3/8 inch on either side of the Magic Chef that I stuffed pipe insulation in while I figure out a more permanent solution. There is also an air gap above and below.  I also bought a door lock such as: https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Everchill/324-000149.html

Bob
Winter: Texas Rio Grande Valley or Foley, AL
Summer: The Gardens RV Community of Crossville, TN
2000 40 FT U270, Xtreme FBP
2017 C-Max Towed

Re: RESIDENTIAL FRIDGE INSTALLATION REQUIREMENTS

Reply #9 –
Quote from: Jeff & Sandy –
We have a '93 U300 GV. We installed a 10.1 fridge last year. It fit through the door once they removed the walnut grab handle on the right side of the coach door frame. We (MOT)  installed a separate, small inverter for the fridge that lives in the cabinet below the fridge.

We love it and wished we made the change years ago. The interior capacity of the new fridge and freezer is much larger that the Dometic that we replaced. Exterior measurements are almost the same. An extra height inch was needed so they lowered the floor of the fridge cabinet by an Inch. Only the lower molding had to be cut so we lost no cabinet space and no doors had to be cut.

The best part....not worrying or dealing with the Dometic.

The only downsize to this change is that it limits our boondocking to 8-10 hours before we need to fire up the generator. We have 2 8D AGMs.
  I get about 20-25 hrs fridge run on my  LA 8D batts . My 3 solar panels run my fridge just fine .  Unplugged all night .

 Look for "inverter power"  for a new resi fridge .  I have the Insigna 9.3 or 9.8   

Re: RESIDENTIAL FRIDGE INSTALLATION REQUIREMENTS

Reply #10 –
What is the model number of the Magic Chef 10.1 frig. Need dimensions
Glenn and Amy Beinfest
2001 36' U320
#5812
2014 Honda CRV

No Whining on the YACHT

Re: RESIDENTIAL FRIDGE INSTALLATION REQUIREMENTS

Reply #11 –
If your main inverter is on to run TV or MW or computer stuff anyway I would just use that.  You should switch to a high efficiency pure sine wave inverter/charger in any case.  For best prices and warranty and standby power use and efficiency consider a Victron Multiplus. You can use a manual DPDT center off switch with a smaller inverter to select either one.  You can add a couple outlets or rewire some parts of a circuit to use some other items plus the refrigerator.

You may need an on/off switch for the refrigerator.

Look at the specs for the refrig, it should say what the max amps are. This is usually a warm start,  the 19 cu ft Samsung says 6 amps.  at 120v that is 720 watts.  You want about 50% more than that so maybe 1000 watts, I used a 1200 watt one, it runs all of the front end electronics, refrig, and several outlets.  don't under-size it.

If you are using a small inverter to power more than one device with a direct connection then a panel with a 120v circuit breaker is suggested best practice and may be required by code in some cases.
Roger Engdahl and Susan Green
2001 U320 3610 #5879 (Home2) - 2014 Jeep Cherokee or 2018 F150
Hastings, MN

Re: RESIDENTIAL FRIDGE INSTALLATION REQUIREMENTS

Reply #12 –
X3 on the Magic Chef.  I am going in to year two with it and it works great.  I did install a separate inverter, a (VertaMax PURE SINE WAVE 1000 Watt (2000W Surge)) to power it.  I left original 110V plug in place to run on shore power if I wish. I also left vents on sidewall and roof in factory condition to aid in cooling.  At the price of it from Home Depot with military discount, I figure I can replace it three times before reaching the cost of Dometic absorption unit.

jk

PS.  The Magic Chef fit through my doorway without having to remove doors.
Jack and Cathy
1992 U280 Unihome 36' Build #4034
Cummins 8.3 /  Allison MT647/ PacBrake
Apopka, FL / Barre Center, NY
 

Re: RESIDENTIAL FRIDGE INSTALLATION REQUIREMENTS

Reply #14 –

Thank you all for the help. I plan to install the Maytag 10.1, however, I discovered my vent fan for the refrigerator had failed. I had a 12 V muffin fan in spares and used the thermostat from the Valterra vent fan. Made a mounting bracket from some aluminum angle, it's not pretty but it's working in this 100° heat here in Kerrville. This gives us a little more time to plan out the upgrade.

I'm going to order a 1500 watt pure sine inverter and battery cables from Windy Nation mounted close to batteries and then run a 12 ga home made extension cable to fridge following same route as my main leads from the solar panels. I'll put a breaker/ disconnect on positive lead to inverter.

My microwave is next to the refrigerator and I'm not comfortable sharing an outlet on my existing inverter with the refrigerator. On my rig, the icemaker is on the other side of the coach and I don't have a vacuum built in that I could borrow power from. Our coaches are just enough different from one to another that it's hard to generalize the easiest and simplest set up. I'm going to vent the refrigerator from the rear and try to control the seasonal temperature from the back. My microwave apparently shares the refrigerator vent. I'm going to leave the fan operational at the top of the vent, since it's controlled by a thermistor and an on off switch.

I can replace the Maytag four times for the cost of a Dometic, not that I would want to have that much fun.
1998 36 foot U270 Build No. 5328 WTFE, 900 watts solar, Victron controller, B2B, bat monitor, 600 AMPH lithium with 2018 Chevy Colorado toad, SKP #110239, Motorcade #17781, 2021 Escape 17B for when Coach is broken down and campsites are too small, retired and full-timer since Dec. 2020. Part of RV family since 1963.