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Topic: Wet bay access (Read 611 times) previous topic - next topic

Wet bay access

Hello all, first time posting. Thank you all as I have found this forum very useful for researching my ongoing maintenance of our coach.
Currently I'm working on our waste tanks.  Our Javelina has quit working and a See Level system is on the way. Also adding the Valterra sewer outlet and 3rd valve. However whilst removing the existing Thetford connection I have found the abs material to be quite soft, to the point that it will not separate cleanly from the y connector. I might have to replace the entire run from the passenger side of the coach. I also need to access the drivers side of the grey tank to apply the See Level sensors, as the configuration of our tanks is different than any I have yet to find on this site. Visible in the passenger side photo is all black tank that extends two feet inboard with  the grey tank starting from there to the driver's side. Therefore to gain access I need to remove the panels at the wet bay but the manner which they are molded they need to come straight out, however the installed basement copping prevents that without removing the wheel well body panel. At least that's how I see it.  I'm considering cutting the panels which are currently two pieces ( a top and bottom) into four pieces. What am I missing?  Can you point me in the right direction please  Thanks Alex.  2002 U320 4020.  40' with tag
Alex and Vicki. '02 U320 4020 40' w/tag  build # 6010

Re: Wet bay access

Reply #1 –
It will come out.  You need to remove the trim piece from the end of the separation panel on the left.  You also need to remove the faucet, take the Pex connectors off from the inside behind the faucet.  Work it out from underneath the upper panel.  After a couple of time of doing this, I removed the pvc tube for waste hose storage....it is unusable any ways.  And I then cut the lower left half of the panel so I could put my water pressure regulator above the waste tube and behind the third valve.  Much easier to remove the panel now if necessary.

Herb and Willie
Escapees 90802
2014 IH-45 Build 6581
2002 U320 40' AGDS Build 6021 Sold
1999 U320 36' No Slides Sold
2007 Monaco Dynasty Diamond IV Sold
2005 Discovery 39 Sold
1986 20' Wilderness TT,  Died a natural death after floods, etc.
Walldog's Journeys
And Willie Said

Re: Wet bay access

Reply #2 –
Thanks  Herb.  Did you remove the upper panel? Is there a need to do so? Also have you made any modifications to the cable operated waste valve.  Even after removing the blade valve to ensure good seals and operation and manually forcing it closed at the valve directly, it still leaks and fills the cross tube with a suprise.
Alex and Vicki. '02 U320 4020 40' w/tag  build # 6010

Re: Wet bay access

Reply #3 –
I went through this as well and I agree with Herb.  It's not easy but it will come out.  May need a little trimming.  Obviously these panels were installed before the basement door frames were installed.  The fiberglass panels are quite tough and you need to find the right sequence and way to twist them to get them out.  If you can remove the cap trim on the end of the divider panel that will help although I did not remove mine.  My wet bays are set up exactly like yours so I've attached a few photos that may help you out.  Good luck!
George Mann
2002 U320 #5934
2017 Rubicon
2013 BMW GS
Waterford MI

Re: Wet bay access

Reply #4 –
Quote from: Newton –
Thanks  Herb.  Did you remove the upper panel? Is there a need to do so? Also have you made any modifications to the cable operated waste valve.  Even after removing the blade valve to ensure good seals and operation and manually forcing it closed at the valve directly, it still leaks and fills the cross tube with a suprise.
I got the upper panel loose and then worked around it.  I did not completely remove it.  Also I took the cables loose from the gate valves and then reinstalled them, making sure that they were closed manually before re installing the cables.  Not sure but I believe that mine close all the way now.  Since the distance from the black gate to the 3rd gate is long, stuff can remain there after the gate is closed.  After I drain the black, I close it and then open the grey to let it back flush up to the closed black gate.  Not a perfect system.  Seems like there is always some black stuff hiding somewhere and leaks out at the most inopportune time....grins.
Herb and Willie
Escapees 90802
2014 IH-45 Build 6581
2002 U320 40' AGDS Build 6021 Sold
1999 U320 36' No Slides Sold
2007 Monaco Dynasty Diamond IV Sold
2005 Discovery 39 Sold
1986 20' Wilderness TT,  Died a natural death after floods, etc.
Walldog's Journeys
And Willie Said

Re: Wet bay access

Reply #5 –
Interesting that you both have cable operated waste valves.  I have electric valves and assumed that that must have been standard on U320's.  Maybe mine were changed by a P.O.  I know that electric valves can be problematic but it seems in this case where the valve is on the opposite side of the coach, 8' from the handle, it may be preferable.  They have worked well for me.  Also interesting that my fiberglass panels in that area are three separate pieces and I see that both or yours are two piece.  That might make my removal easier as I have to start from the top down and remove all three panels.
George Mann
2002 U320 #5934
2017 Rubicon
2013 BMW GS
Waterford MI

Re: Wet bay access

Reply #6 –
My 03 U320 also has cable actuated gate valves. 
Keith
2003 U320 38' #6197

Re: Wet bay access

Reply #7 –
Our 08 Nimbus has cable valves also...
Keith and Dawn Hudson #18766
Current- 1999 U295 DFGE 40ft. - Build #5405
Coach Name: 4BUS4US
Previous- 2008 Nimbus CE338: 40th Anniversary Edition- Build #6486. 
Toad: 2021 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk

 "I know something about a lot of things..a lot about something's..and everything about nothing "

Re: Wet bay access

Reply #8 –
I decided to cut the lower panel in two. Not sure about the top panel yet. Have any installed a grey tank flush. Was thinking of using the current vacuum breaker for both black and grey and routing it back to the wet bay to a 3 way valve.  For those that have the cable operated valves, have you been able to get a proper closure or have you relied on a third valve? What electric valve have you used? The trim piece at the wall divider was difficult to remove and was deformed while removing.  Any leads on a replacement? Thanks for your replies. 
Alex and Vicki. '02 U320 4020 40' w/tag  build # 6010

Re: Wet bay access

Reply #9 –
Ours does also but I modified the covers so there's only a top piece and a bottom piece and about a one foot open space in the middle so I can always see if there's any leaks in that area and also there's no cables on the valves to worry about.
Richard & Betty Bark & Keiko our Golden Doodle
2003 U320T 3820 PBDS
Build # 6215
MC # 16926
2016 Chevrolet Colorado 4X4 diesel

Re: Wet bay access

Reply #10 –
My cable operated vales have proper closure and I do not have a 3rd valve.
Keith
2003 U320 38' #6197

Re: Wet bay access

Reply #11 –
I've got to say that I like the electrically operated waste valves.  Maybe I will have a different opinion after they let me down one day.  If you're thinking of changing over to electric valves, I would definitely use these:
Pro-Series Smart Valves | Drain Master RV
Much simplified wiring vs. my old valves plus these are smart and stop the motor once the valve has reached full close or full open.  With the old ones you're not supposed to hold the switch for more than one or two seconds or you risk burning up the motor.  Not inexpensive but what is on these rigs?  As far as adding a backflush to the grey tank, I've never really felt that was necessary.  On mine, the vacuum breaker is on the passenger side behind the washer/dryer so that would be a bit of a pain as far as plumbing.  I would just add a separate one with all of the associated plumbing in the wet bay on the driver's side.
Is the trim piece on the divider just an aluminum extrusion?  Was it glued on?  Can you post a picture of it?
George Mann
2002 U320 #5934
2017 Rubicon
2013 BMW GS
Waterford MI

Re: Wet bay access

Reply #12 –
Drain Master valves were on the coach when we purchased it. The PO owned a RV repair business and had the proto type valves installed at his shop. They are over 10 years old and working fine. How about that for a jinx?
1999 40 ft. U-320 wtfe build 5563 Chuck & Lynda's "Rollin' Inn"  2030 watts solar
prev. mh's 71 GMC 5 yrs. 73 Pace Setter 1 yr. 78 Vogue 5 yrs 81 FTX 40ft all electric 18 yrs. 1996 Monaco Signature 3 yrs.
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland
Dream as if you will live forever. Live as if you will die today.  James Dean
 

Re: Wet bay access

Reply #13 –
Yes the trim is aluminum. Doesn't need to be. I've looked online and at local hardware stores.  7/8 throat.
Alex and Vicki. '02 U320 4020 40' w/tag  build # 6010