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Topic: Replaced Start Batteries (Read 2220 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Replaced Start Batteries

Reply #20 –
My isolater had a heavy part time draw and did not like one side being charged to 13.6 volt. 
Disconnect it and everything works swell .

Re: Replaced Start Batteries

Reply #21 –
Herb, might I make a suggestion re the "choke" point on your battery tray. Why not weld or bolt a piece of angle iron under the "choke" angle lip, then cut out the "choke"angle leg part of the existing angle and instead drill and bolt a retainer angle to the uprights?
Now, before you put the new exhaust would make things easier to work on.

Re: Replaced Start Batteries

Reply #22 –
Quote from: nitehawk –
Herb, might I make a suggestion re the "choke" point on your battery tray. Why not weld or bolt a piece of angle iron under the "choke" angle lip, then cut out the "choke"angle leg part of the existing angle and instead drill and bolt a retainer angle to the uprights?
Now, before you put the new exhaust would make things easier to work on.
Good Idea, However once I removed the stock muffler and installed the resonator, there is plenty of room to remove the batteries.  Though a removable retaining lip would make sliding them out and in easier......next time maybe.  We go to a Muffler Shop today to have the tail pipe connected to the resonator.

Re: Replaced Start Batteries

Reply #23 –
After two days of seeing expected and correct voltage from the trickle charger for the chassis (starter) batteries, I am now seeing a load that is dropping the float voltage down to 12.69 volts at the batteries.  The voltage read 12.67 at the trickle charger terminal.  If I disconnect the cable to the batteries, the potential at the trickle charger terminal is 13.20 volts, which is the same as at the main output terminal to house batteries.

Something is drawing the trickle charger down.  Could it be the original and old isolator?  What else could be loading the trickle charger down?

We are on power and have been since we returned from the muffler shop yesterday afternoon.  The voltage at the start batteries slowly has dropped overnight to now being stable at 12.69. 

Re: Replaced Start Batteries

Reply #24 –
Since you are on shore power (inverter/charger charging the house batteries), use the boost switch to jump voltage back up to 13+ VDC on the chassis batteries.

Yes, the batteries could be bad, OR it could just be that the draw exceeds the amp output of your chassis battery charger.
 

Re: Replaced Start Batteries

Reply #25 –
Quote from: wolfe10 –
Since you are on shore power (inverter/charger charging the house batteries), use the boost switch to jump voltage back up to 13+ VDC on the chassis batteries.

Yes, the batteries could be bad, OR it could just be that the draw exceeds the amp output of your chassis battery charger.
Chassis (start) batteries could be bad, however they are new I just replaced them.  I was having similar voltage indications and I assumed that since my start batteries were old and tired they might have been the problem.  The new batteries did not change the symptoms I still see.  Yes, I can turn the boost on and watch the start battery voltage climb up to the value of the house batteries in a very short time.  I agree that it is a distinct possibility that something intermittent is exceeding the amp output of the trickle charger terminal of the Victron Multiplus 3000.  Thanks