So your coach wont start.
My trouble shooting tools
A. A volt meter
B. A test light with long leads and alligator clips on end.
C. A alternate remote starts switch
D. A cheap or expensive battery load cell capable of loading a 100 amps or more
E. Battery charger
F. Necessary tools and cleaning supplies
Start with the simple things first, order you follow is up to you, however I generally follow the following.
A. Volt meter . Check the voltage at the suspect battery
1. If its dead charge and check capacity. If it fully charges fast it probably will have capacity issues. Check with load cell.
If its fully charged check voltage at starter main connection
A if you have full voltage using alternate start control engage starter
Does starter solenoid engage?
Yes? Check solenoid start wire for power during start attempt. Repair wiring.
No? But have voltage, on both big lead and start solenoid wire, bad starter solenoid
Solenoid engages but no start bad solenoid or starter.
B no Voltage at starter? But good battery voltage.
Using volt meter or 12V test bulb put one lead on the center of the battery positive post and the other at the terminating end of the cable on positive post.
If you read voltage or bulb lights up you have isolated your problem to that lead.
Repeat on the other battery cable ground but this time go to coach ground on the frame somewhere.
If you read voltage or bulb lights up you have isolated your problem to that lead.
Using load cell on batteries and at termination connection post and at cable splice locations will isolate fault. Sometimes voltage will be present but drops off during a load.
Typical issues will be connections and failed batteries.
Using the test bulb and remote start switch along (parrellel) long leads quickly isolates problems. Can also be used along (parrellel) positive or negative battery connections to see resistance. Cleaning connections and protecting from the air reduces corrosion. Preventive maintenance does take time but prevents on the road issues. I'd rather change a starter at home at my time schedule rather than in the fuel line at the pumps.
If all checks out verify good starter to ground connection, using test bulb or volt meter. I personally do like the bulb do to visual indication on leads and between battery leads. If it lights up there is an issue, remember to verify it works before using. This also works across bad boost switches and Isolators, but not mentioned here because they do not affect starting issues. Poor capacity batteries may need boost to start, but this should not be the normal starting procedure. If you must use boost to start you are covering up other issues, Batteries, leads, connections. Hope this is helpful. Anything that should be added let me know and I'll add to the list.
Test light I use is just a plain 12v brake light bulb with wire leads soldered to bulb base. Tape to cover. Alligator clips on the end of the wires.
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Scott
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