Re: Attempting to remove the wheel lugs
Reply #10 –
That's why I never let a shop tighten our lug nuts. I almost never have a problem with HF stuff. I got rid of the stainless axle cover on the back wheels. A torque multiplier makes easy work of the nuts so you can use an inexpensive electric impact or other tool. They are about $50-$60 delivered and well worth it. You also need a flip socket. You use it as a normal socket and then once the outside tire is off, you use the socket the same way as the square recess goes on the studs about a quarter inch from touching the inside wheel.
I clean the threads and used a bench wire wheel on the square drive nuts plus some spray galvanize to keep rust away. I use this exact never seez on all threads Amazon.com: Never-Seez 535-30803832 8 oz Mariners Choice Anti-Seize, Black &... as it reduces the required torque needed by 44%. It is expensive as shown on Amazon. I bought a 1/2" drive, 300 lb torque wrench at it's max setting to torque the wheels. All never seez compounds are not the same and don't reduce the torque needed even close to the Mariner's Choice.
Once you install the lug nuts this way, it's super easy to remove them with either an electric gun or a breaker bar. You only have to apply 300# to get them off.
If you use a loose nut indicator, you can make an instant visual check on all your wheels. Loose Wheel Lug Nut Indicators 32mm 33mm 34mm Kenworth Peterbilt Volvo Semi... Once the nuts are tight, you slip these over the nuts and then install the chrome caps.
Pierce
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