Foretravel Owners' Forum For owners and Fans of Foretravel Motorcoaches September 10, 2025 ...

1. Just doesn't seem to be enough room to get leverage.. Any tips?
2. Also, from what I've read so far...I need to bleed all the tanks (except hwh slide tank) not just the wet tank correct?

1 This is the reason I remove the dryer out the bottom and work on it on the shop bench. By doing this you can access the lower end that needs to be cleaned and serviced. The lower end is just as important to service as is the 2 filter elements.

2. It is safer that way. By doing this you can see if the check valves are leaking and need replacement.

Mike

I just did this job this past weekend and I didn't have any problem getting the big filter off with a strap wrench but I do appreciate your comment that the oil fill and dipstick tubes weren't doing you any favors.  Of course I had changed the filter last so that's probably why it wasn't too tight.  I do agree with Mike and I did wind up removing the entire assembly to work on it on the bench however I struggled mightily with the air inlet fitting.  The problem is that it's a little corroded (probably due to the moisture in that line) and i have to say I disagree with Foretravels choice to use a 45 degree fitting on that inlet connection.  The nut on the line is 1 1/4" which is a combination wrench that I did not previously own.  There is absolutely no clearance to get an adjustable wrench in there (and I loathe them anyway) so off to Home Depot I went to buy the wrench.  The combination wrench fits a little better but there is still only room to swing a couple of degrees at most.  That line was absolutely not going to budge and it started to turn the 45 degree fitting which only made things worse.  I finally had to resort to heat which eventually did the trick.  The other two air lines came off very easy and I was able to put the whole unit on the bench and change out the bottom end parts as well (Haldex DQ 6020) which I highly recommend.

Dylan I don't mean to hijack your post and I'm sorry for the long reply.  I would keep at it with the strap wrench and I think you will finally get it.  You should remove the whole assemby anyway but then I think you will find that there's really no way to secure the whole thing because you still need to get the filter off.

Lastly a question for all.  Notice in my picture the red arrow at the base of the threaded boss where the filter canister screws on, it looks like a groove for an O-ring.  My old filter did not have one installed and the new kit (Haldex DQ6026) did not include one but the instructions mention removing the old one and discarding it.  Can anyone comment on whether they had this O-ring either on their old filter canister or the new kit?

Look for a strap wrench like this:

1/2" Drive Nylon Strap Oil Filter Wrench - Gearwrench 3149 | FCP Euro

This looks just like my Snap-On and is about $50.00 less. Takes my dryer off and Caterpillar oil filters too.

K Tool 73731 Oil Filter Strap Wrench, up to 9" Diameter, Heavy Duty Nylon,...

Dylan,

A little more info for you about the tank check valves.
If you drain the wet tank and you loose pressure in the 2 other tanks then this indicates that those check valves are leaking by.
I should have expanded on that thought.

Mike

Got it, so if my check valves are working then I could just drain my wet tank and not worry about the front tanks to work on my dryer correct?

Not ideal . You can bake it for an hour at 300.. Its supposed to dry them out .