Foretravel Owners' Forum For owners and Fans of Foretravel Motorcoaches September 11, 2025 ...

In our 2000 and I believe for several model years after this, the ignition solenoid is a (2) relay system comprised of dual Bosch 0-332-002-150 75A relays.

The relay inputs are fed with 10ga wire from a common +12v lug post, the output from each are a (2) 10ga that run to a total of (4) individual bus bars.  Turn on the ignition and those (4) bus bars are energized.  The relays and lug are all located behind the access panel in front of the passenger seat.  The two relays are activated by 12v ignition power, in our case both were from wire 103A, the relays switched in parallel.

I chose to replace this dual relay setup with a single Blue Sea Systems 9012 Solenoid Switch which has been recommended many times.  I'm not suggesting anyone do this, or that it is needed, it's just something I wanted to do.

The dual black +12V input wire was reused and both lugs bolted on the A1 post. I would have replaced this cable with a single 6ga but I did not have any black 6ga SOOW on hand.  I did update the (2) ring terminals with ones that fit the 5/16 terminal on the Blue Sea. 

The outputs were redone as (4) individual lines and were attached to post A2.  You can reuse the original wiring but you need to redo the ring lugs so they fit on a 5/16 bolt.  Then the red and black trigger wires were wired as red to the existing 103A wire and black to the existing green ground wire. 

Of course disconnect your batteries when you are working in here, there are lots of ways to short things out in and around that panel.  That 12V lug is fed with a 90A breaker, so there is plenty of energy available to get your attention.

A couple of things found along the way.

• The nut on the +12V common lug (that left most lug in the pictures) was not tight.  When I put the 9/16 socket on the nut I was able to turn it off with just my fingers.  I tightened that to 80 in-lbs (INCH), same as the lugs on the blue sea.
• The large white panel that holds all of the relays/wire/etc was loose.  It is secured to upper/lower angle brackets, which themselves are screwed into the floor and underside of the dash.  In our case that top bracket had pulled out of the dash and let the panel drop down and rotate to the left.  The use of self drilling screws was a poor fastener choice to secure the bracket to plywood, they make wood screws for a reason.  I cut a new top bracket and secured it to the dash base, then secured the panel.  I also added supports below the panel to help carry the weight.