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Topic: New floors (Read 1628 times) previous topic - next topic

New floors

Yesterday afternoon I took the plunge and started the process of replacing the carpet with wood.  The old carpet was Veeeeery nasty.  Removing the wood in the galley area was much harder than I anticipated.  Jennifer said she would not go on a trip until I removed the carpet.  Maybe I should have left the old stuff in place.  ;D
Brian and Jen

Re: New floors

Reply #1 –
Quote from: aspenpilot –
Yesterday afternoon I took the plunge and started the process of replacing the carpet with wood. 

Can't wait to see the finished product!

Are you going to reinstall the neat desk/console or are you planning to put something else in its place?

Michelle
Learn every day, but especially from the experiences of others. It's cheaper!  - John C. Bogle

2000 U320 36' non-slide / WildEBeest Rescue
2003 U320

Re: New floors

Reply #2 –
Brian,
What product is that you're using?  Is it a floating or self stick product, vynil or laminate?
Peter & Beth Martin
No Forrest? What have you done?
MC# 15890 until Dec 2016; FMCA #F329677
Cincinnati, OH

Re: New floors

Reply #3 –
I'm going to definitely put the computer desk/console back in place; It's nice having the space for a printer and other office items.  After looking at different brands and types, weighing the pros and cons of each, I decided to go with a Bruce engineered hardwood.  I wasn't too impressed with the laminates that were available.  It's a floating install, but can be glued as well.  After speaking with somebody at Armstrong (Bruce,) I've decided to install using the floating method.  As the seats, sofa, and a couple of cabinets will be secured through the floor, into the sub-floor, the rep said that was the way to go.  If everything goes as planned, I should be finished by tomorrow evening.
Brian and Jen

Re: New floors

Reply #4 –
Could you please expand on your comment about removing the wood floor in the galley.  How did you get it up? 
1996 U270
Build #4846

Re: New floors

Reply #5 –
Sure, Gayland:

The wood in the galley was glued to an aluminum sheet, which in turn, was glued to the plywood sub-floor.  I didn't realize this fact until the removal was about 50% done.  I used a crowbar that was shaped like the letter "L."  I put the short end between the wood flooring and the plywood, then hit the crowbar (near the bend) with a hammer to wedge it in between.  I then pulled on the long end to help "pop up" the wood.  Lots of the wood spilt during this process, requiring me to go at it again.  I then noticed that there was a sheet of aluminum under the wood.  As I like to save time, I wedged the crowbar under the aluminum hoping to pry it, along with the wood. No good..can you say hernia?  :o  It wasn't until ALL of the wood was removed before I was able to remove the aluminum.  For its removal, I held the crowbar by the short end, allowing me to slide it under the aluminum.  Once I had approximately one foot of aluminum loose, I was able to grab it and pull (very hard) to complete the removal.  All-in-all it took about two hours, and two beers, to remove the wood and aluminum. 
Brian and Jen

Re: New floors

Reply #6 –
Thanks Brian,  others have commented how hard that comes up.  Nice to know in advance what to expect.  A sheet of aluminum....weird.  Anyway, its spring time here in North Dakota (that means its above zero) so I'm thinking it's time to start on this project.
1996 U270
Build #4846

Re: New floors

Reply #7 –
Quote from: Gayland Baasch –
A sheet of aluminum....weird. 
Not really, think Galley/kitchen and water.  The sheet of aluminum would stop any water from penetrating thru to the plywood sub floor and rotting it.  Talk about Foretravel Quality!!  Bet you will find a sheet of aluminum glued to the subfloor in the bathroom too.
1994 U225
build #4514

Re: New floors

Reply #8 –
Agree. I doubt if Tiffin and Newmar or Monaco put an aluminum sheet under the galley floor, but I've been wrong before.
George Stoltz.  Retired from full-time living in a great Foretravel and now are back to living in a traditional sticks and bricks in Florida.

Re: New floors

Reply #9 –
A sheet of aluminum means water through the flooring will not warp/rot the base floor plywood.
The selected media item is not currently available. Dave Head & Megan Westbrook
Titusville, FL - The Great Outdoors
'98 270 buying this month
Toad is a 2018 F150 XLT

Re: New floors

Reply #10 –
Hey, I'm feeling contentious today  :P  Agreed the theory sounds good and gives some bragging rights, but for all practical purposes I think if you're spilling that much water where you're standing, its just going to run off the edges and soak down where there is no sheeting.  Having it extend underneath the counter itself would make sense where small leaks could go un-noticed, but it doesn't sound like that's the case, at least not all as one piece.  In the bathroom would maybe make sense, but Bob Rozek just posted the other day that they had to replace the bathroom floor so suspect there isn't any there.
1996 U270
Build #4846

Re: New floors

Reply #11 –
When I replaced my floor, I didn't have any aluminum sheet under the galley wood.  Most of the wood had to be chiseled off of the sub-floor leaving splintered sub-floor where the glue was too strong.  Body filler smoothed out the floor for the tile.
I see in the pictures that you exposed the wire looms along the walls.  I built walnut chases for the looms both in the front of the coach and the bathroom.  What did you do to cover the wires?

Mike B.
Michael Baldacchino
'97 40' U320

Re: New floors

Reply #12 –
I started the tear out on mine yesterday.  Also no aluminum under the wood, and same results Mike mentions, sub floor is getting tore to bits.  Maybe that was the intent of the aluminum.  Outside of that, there was no sign of any water damage anywhere, but I'm only half done.
1996 U270
Build #4846

Re: New floors

Reply #13 –
Hi Mike,

In order to cover the wires that ran along the walls, I simply used the existing strips of wood which were on either side of them.  I then used my table saw to rip the pieces of wood to the appropriate width so that the edges were flush.  I am now in the process of using quarter rounds to cover the 1/4" gap I left next to the wall, as well as the interior edge.  I'll post pictures of the quarter rounds...and the finished project in a few days.  I hope I explained this well enough.  If not, hopefully the pics will answer your question.
Brian and Jen

Re: New floors

Reply #14 –
Gaylord,
As you stated there was no aluminium over the plywood in the kitchen or bath.  I replaced the wood under the toilet and in front about two feet, due to water damage. I was also surprised as I had read that the floors were 3/4" thick. Mine are 1/2". To guard against future water issues I sealed the plywood joints with epoxy and coated the kitchen/bath with a epoxy paint. While I had the toilet out I disassembled and resealed the "Sealing Adapter", which was leaking. I also found that the "J-Bolt" nuts were loose, enabling the hopper to move around creating another leak. When I tightened the J-Bolts I applied thread lock to avoid this issue down the road. As a preventative measure I remove the tank lid weekly, while i'm flushing and inspect for any leaks.
The selected media item is not currently available.Bob & Faith Rozek
1997 U320 40'
Xtreme Remodel
2010 Scion XD
 

Re: New floors

Reply #15 –
I finished the tear out, going from the front to the bedroom.  Aside from the gallery wood floor area that got tore up, everything looks good.  There are some water stains by the ice maker and edges of the shower.  After 15 years I would suppose that could just be condensation.  I'm strongly considering removing the ice maker, maybe try to add a second furnace (redundancy as the man said!)  I'll have to look closer at the floor thickness, but I'm sure it's more than 1/2 inch, at least up front where the chairs are bolted down through the floor.
1996 U270
Build #4846