Skip to main content ↑ ↓
Topic: Need more input on slide problem (Read 1008 times) previous topic - next topic

Need more input on slide problem

Our new favorite money pit {aka slide out room} is causing us more headaches.  We need to bring in the slide, but can not get the bladder to collapse enough to do so.  I am ordering an Air Seal Manifold Assembly today and hopefully that will solve the problem. 

In the interim we'd like to bring the slide in because when it rains we get water inside.
George Stoltz.  Retired from full-time living in a great Foretravel and now are back to living in a traditional sticks and bricks in Florida.

Re: Can not deflate bladder to bring in slide - HELP

Reply #1 –
Quote from: George Stoltz –
Our new favorite money pit {aka slide out room} is causing us more headaches.  We need to bring in the slide, but can not get the bladder to collapse enough to do so.  I am ordering an Air Seal Manifold Assembly today and hopefully that will solve the problem. 

In the interim we'd like to bring the slide in because when it rains we get water inside.
What do you mean when you say "can not get the bladder to collapse enough"
How do you know it is not enough?
Are you hearing the "vacuum switch" on the slide manifold removing the air from the bladder?
You might have a bad vacuum switch.

You can close the air valve to the slide manifold, (see diagram) and remove the line going to the bladder which will remove the pressure and you can bring the slide in.
The bladder wont be fully deflated but with no pressure in the bladder you should be able to bring in slide without damage to bladder.
The selected media item is not currently available.Barry BEAM #16014
2003 U320 40' AGDS
Beamalarm, Foretravel technical help and specifications
"Whatever the mind can conceive and believe, it can achieve"

Re: Can not deflate bladder to bring in slide - HELP

Reply #2 –
Quote from: Barry Beam –
Quote from: George Stoltz –
Our new favorite money pit {aka slide out room} is causing us more headaches.  We need to bring in the slide, but can not get the bladder to collapse enough to do so.  I am ordering an Air Seal Manifold Assembly today and hopefully that will solve the problem. 

In the interim we'd like to bring the slide in because when it rains we get water inside.
What do you mean when you say "can not get the bladder to collapse enough"
How do you know it is not enough?
Are you hearing the "vacuum switch" on the slide manifold removing the air from the bladder?
You might have a bad vacuum switch.

You can close the air valve to the slide manifold, (see diagram) and remove the line going to the bladder which will remove the pressure and you can bring the slide in.
The bladder wont be fully deflated but with no pressure in the bladder you should be able to bring in slide without damage to bladder.


Hi Barry,

For quite some time now we have been visually checking the bladder to see that it has fully retracted from side wall before we bring the slide in.  Many months ago we learned that the amber light on the key-activated Room Extension switch to the left of the driver's seat is controlled by time and not by the condition of the bladder (full/not full) we have done this visual inspection to avoid scraping the bladder with the slide.

I crawled into the bay and listened while Sandy activated the Room Extension switch and I could hear a valve open and air escape.  After this we still could only see a small air space at the top corners of the slide.  So before we brought the slide back in I sprayed the exterior edge of the bladder on both sides and the bottom of the slide out room with a very soapy solution to add lubricity.  Then Sandy activated the switch to bring the slide and and it came in quickly and quietly.  No sound of rubber being scraped.

Next we turned the pump back on to air up the bladder and when we could not see any light leaks, we turned the pump off.

We have ordered the Air Seal Manifold Assembly from HWH.  I think I can remove the old one and install the new one without too much difficulty.  As I recall the assembly is close to $400.  I failed to write down the cost.  Note:  HWH will rebuild the Assembly, but we would have to remove it and ship it and by the time we figure in the fuel, the hassle and time, I prefer to go with an entirely new part.

This has been a real learning experience and I hope this new part solves the problem.

As always, we appreciate having the benefit of your knowledgeable assistance.
George Stoltz.  Retired from full-time living in a great Foretravel and now are back to living in a traditional sticks and bricks in Florida.

Re: Can not deflate bladder to bring in slide - HELP

Reply #3 –
George, if it will leak when you have it out it will leak when you have it in too I would think if it is the bladder is not keeping the water out while it is extended that the bladder would not seal tight enough with the slide retracted. You might be looking at the Les Ettinger fix of duct taping your slide exterior.  Also, I asked at HWH and they said if it was mostly deflated and you only pulled the slide in irregularly to solve a problem then it would not be an issue. I am not so sure about that but they told me that. 
2025 Wanderbox Outpost 32 on F600 Expedition Motorhome
2015 Born Free Royal Splendor on Ford 550 nonslide version  for sale
Former Coaches  covering. 360,000 miles
1999 34 U270
2000 36 U320
2001 42' double slide U320
2018 Jeep Rubicon

Re: Can not deflate bladder to bring in slide - HELP

Reply #4 –
John,

With the slide in we can not see any gaps at the corners.  It is always possible that we will see them after a few days.

I'll let ya know what I find out.
George Stoltz.  Retired from full-time living in a great Foretravel and now are back to living in a traditional sticks and bricks in Florida.
 

Re: Need more input on slide problem

Reply #5 –
I have made a lot of progress on the slide problem.  I installed the new air seal manifold assembly Friday and we can now operate the slide and it works better than it ever did.

For pretty close to 30 hours after replacing the manifold assembly the pump did not kick on.  Then late Saturday it began to cycle on and off at about 15 minute intervals with the interval gradually shrinking to about 4 minutes.  Each time the pump would come on it only ran for about 4 seconds.  So, the air leak is not a large one.

Overnight I turned the pump off and then this morning I went exploring to see if there were any loose connections.  Found a couple that only needed about 3/4 turn to make them very tight again.  But then I found something I did not expect.  I touched what I think is a  12 volt solenoid motor and it was so hot that it almost burned my skin.  Am I correct in assuming that this motor or solenoid (shown in photo) should not be too hot to touch?  Should it be replaced?

One other thing.  the plastic bottle above the solenoid is empty except for a bit of condensation inside the bottle. What does that mean?

Barry, I hope you see this message.

I really, really appreciate the help offered.  I realize this is an area in which that not everyone has a lot of experience.
George Stoltz.  Retired from full-time living in a great Foretravel and now are back to living in a traditional sticks and bricks in Florida.