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Those that do own maintenance on older coaches...

July 22, 2011, 10:30:08 pm

OK, I'm looking for some suggestions from those of you that do your own maintenance on older ORED coaches.  I have an 89 ORED.  The items I'm most curious or concerned about are the following...

1. How did you work under the coach when changing fluids, hoses, or belts?  Did you lift the coach at all and if so how did you do it and how high?  My leveling system has some issues so not going to be able to use it this time around.  I got under the coach today and I'm not sure there is enough room to really do what needs to be done without somehow lifting it a little.  I've been looking at building my own wood ramp steps.  That the best way?

2. Coolant - I think if I were to just drain, flush and fill the coolant system it would be pretty straightforward.  However, I figured if I'm going to change the coolant I might as well change the hoses given I don't know how old they are.  There are a bunch and I'm not exactly sure which ones are the most important or where they go.  I was looking at the Oshkosh parts book.  Is there somewhere I can call to reference these parts and have them sent to me?  FT, Oshkosh, maybe a local trucking supply company (Austin, TX)?  I want to use the Gate's green stripe hoses, but will they know if I start reference Oshkosh PNs?

3. Belts - Oh boy.  Laying under the coach I have NO IDEA how I'm going to get up in there and replace all the belts.  It looks tight.  Anyone done this and if so was there anything special you did or is it just tight and that's the way it is?

4. Belt tension - I found some tension specs for the fan belt, but nothing on the others.  Is it the same tension or is it different for each belt?

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Re: Those that do own maintenance on older coaches...

Reply #1 – July 23, 2011, 01:02:08 pm

Not an expert on your model but yes, getting underneath is always a problem. I am still trying to get my pit done but now I usually use blocks in the rear to get it up in the air. Should have stepped blocks with a broad base that catch BOTH tires on each side in the back. I make sure my front tires are blocked so it can't roll forward, come off the rear blocks and squash you. Has happened to a lot of people.

75% of alternator failure (bearings) can be traced to belts tightened too much. Too loose and they slip, get hot, slip more, .... A good rule of thumb is after you have tightened them you should be able to put your fingers on a belt midway between pulleys and turn the belt 90 degrees with a moderate bit of effort but not using all your strength. Belt tightening gauges are available but I have never used one and have done well for belt life. Good idea to check again after a few miles and then again if first check shows any difference from installation. Do a bit of research on different forums for brands recommended. Have never done badly with Dayco, Gates.

Alternator belts get a big load on them if batteries are low and alternator goes to max output. Even with two belts, important to keep eye on them.

With belts off alternator, spin it by hand. Should not make much noise or have any play or rough spots. If it does, remove and take to motor electric shop. Should be $100 or less for rebuild with new bearings, brushes, etc. Much better choice than sending off for rebuilt.

Very important: Always replace both belts at the same time with the same brand if one is bad. In other words, buy a matching pair.

Don't wear loose clothing, a tie or anything like that around an engine that is running. Remember Isadora Duncan

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Re: Those that do own maintenance on older coaches...

Reply #2 – July 23, 2011, 03:26:54 pm

I would suggest evaluating each coolant hose before deciding to replace.  Some might be silicone that have a very good temperature resistance and should last the life of the vehicle.  If your concerned about them, pull them off so you can get a good look at them and feel them for soft spots or weaknesses.

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Re: Those that do own maintenance on older coaches...

Reply #3 – July 23, 2011, 05:48:38 pm

About the belts. You have to work from under the raised bed. First you'll have access to alternator -air compressor belt (only one) easy to adjust or RR with adjustment on alternator bracket. Second set of belts is loosen from from hidden bolt behind water pump it's a sliding adj. The 2 bolts on each side will loosen the adj. and the one on top will rise to tighten the 2 belts or loose them to remove. Posting from memory. removal is from underneath. Next belts are for hydraulic pump, easy to work on while laying on your back. The last belt is for a/c compressor also easy to work with. Remember : the
 f
first belt have to be remove to RR second belt , and so on to the last belt. Hope this answer your need. 


Niagarachip.

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Re: Those that do own maintenance on older coaches...

Reply #4 – July 23, 2011, 07:59:11 pm

Deflection test is OK for V belts, but you should always use a belt tension gauge for ribbed belts.  They aren't much money, and the spec should be available for all ribbed belts.

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