Leveling system

Topic: Leveling system (Read 1547 times) previous topic - next topic

Leveling system

July 19, 2011, 10:58:40 am

We are parked on a fairly level spot. Our comperssor pump has run for over 3 hours continuous. The system normally levels fine but seems a bit "rocky", i.e. you can feel movement to a degree. Right now, it fells like a concrete floor. Can the pump be shut off? Is a little motion typical?

Re: Leveling system

Reply #1 – July 19, 2011, 11:02:56 am

I think you can hit the air button and then the emergency stop buttom. This should turn the compressor off. I had a bad rear sensor and it was allowing my compressor to run every 15 minutes for 30 minutes. DAN

Re: Leveling system

Reply #2 – July 19, 2011, 11:04:19 am

Also there is an inline fuse for the compressor you can pull. It should be there by the compressor. DAN

Re: Leveling system

Reply #3 – July 19, 2011, 11:19:43 am

Quote from: LBoyd – July 19, 2011, 10:58:40 am

We are parked on a fairly level spot. Our compressor pump has run for over 3 hours continuous.

Larry,

I would definitely pull the in-line fuse (a little square device just hanging in a wire) to keep the pump from overheating. It will make a fairly loud "pssshhheewww" noise when you do this so don't be startled. And be careful - running 3 hours that pump is going to be HOT!

A couple of places to check to see if you have a leak causing this (you'll need to have the pump running for these)

First, the exhaust/blow off solenoid on the pump. Start with these threads explaining where there solenoid valve is

House batteries dead.... need advice

Front slide wouldn't retract

Here is how to rebuild it

HWH Solenoid Valve Rebuild

Sometimes just pulling the inline fuse to stop the pump and reinserting it will get the valve to seal.

If it's not that valve, start listening around the slide bladders for air leaks (again, you'll need the pump running).

We have an afternoon activity from 1 until 6 Mountain time, but if you need help before then, I'll send you Steve's cellphone number.

Michelle

Re: Leveling system

Reply #4 – July 19, 2011, 12:01:24 pm

I pulled the fuse and the pump stopped, of course. It's pretty hot. Pump restarts with if I replace it. I Sounds like I've got a leak in the system.

Re: Leveling system

Reply #5 – July 19, 2011, 12:20:21 pm

Speaking of air bags & leaks, after going over our entire air system with soap suds and found one small leak (on rear air tank behind front axle) that was resolved, I found that when in the auto level mode, the compressor runs maybe once a day or less, but when just siting on the normal travel mode, the compressor runs every 6 to 8 hours, so now looking closer at the 3 leveling valves & lines. Never a dull day

Re: Leveling system

Reply #6 – July 19, 2011, 05:13:45 pm

Larry,
I might add to your or air leak list...

While the DC pump is running, check to see if air is bleeding out of the purge solenoid outlet - below the air compressor. This portion is the a bleed off/air release for the pump when it is NOT running, but it may have dirt or calcium deposits in the solenoid itself that causes it to leak air and not seal properly. Put a finger over the outlet (after the solenoid) to see if it has air flowing/bleeding out - again, only when pump is running. It doesn't take much leakage to keep the pump running.forever - just a little pressure on you finger is enough. You may or may not hear the air leak there because the compressor is louder.

If this the culprit causing your air leak, the solenoid's air shuttle valve may be disassembled and cleaned - including down inside where the plunger seats. Any colored debris inside is a problem. Clean it carefully. Usually the desiccant beads are contaminated and/or wet as the cause (and no longer any blue ones seen). When contaminated, they may be removed, washed, put on a flat tray and then dried in an oven for an hour at roughly 250F for an hour or heated in a microwave or simply replaced with new beads.

Quote

Quote from: LBoyd

We are parked on a fairly level spot. Our compressor pump has run for over 3 hours continuous.

Larry,
I would definitely pull the in-line fuse (a little square device just hanging in a wire) to keep the pump from overheating. It will make a fairly loud "pssshhheewww" noise when you do this so don't be startled. And be careful - running 3 hours that pump is going to be HOT!
A couple of places to check to see if you have a leak causing this (you'll need to have the pump running for these)

First, the exhaust/blow off solenoid on the pump. Start with these threads explaining where there solenoid valve is

House batteries dead.... need advice
Front slide wouldn't retract
Here is how to rebuild it
HWH Solenoid Valve Rebuild
Sometimes just pulling the inline fuse to stop the pump and reinserting it will get the valve to seal.

If it's not that valve, start listening around the slide bladders for air leaks (again, you'll need the pump running).

We have an afternoon activity from 1 until 6 Mountain time, but if you need help before then, I'll send you Steve's cellphone number.

Michelle

Re: Leveling system

Reply #7 – July 19, 2011, 11:43:57 pm

What size and type of fuse fits into the inline fuse holder?

Re: Leveling system

Reply #8 – July 20, 2011, 11:16:47 pm

The fuse on mine is a 5 amp. I was actually able to make things work (compressor not run with fuse in place} by taping the solenod case, then running and stopping the compressor as suggested by Steve I then removed it for cleaning and and found great quantities of sand like material. Everything now is working well but I think I'm going to get a replacement solenod to be safe. Steve, do you have that part #??
Thanks for all the help, everyone!!
Question: Where do you attach an air hose to inflate tires using the compressor? I printed the HWH compressor diagram (HWH Operator's Manual for the 680 series-page MP85.473E) for the system and it seems to be indicating that the same solenod we are talking about above is the auxillary air supply. HWH notes that the customer (Foretravel?) will furnish a switch to operate this system which I assume is the key. I don't see anything in my Foretravel stuff clarifing anything. What am I missing?

Re: Leveling system

Reply #9 – July 20, 2011, 11:34:14 pm

Quote from: LBoyd – July 20, 2011, 11:16:47 pm

The fuse on mine is a 5 amp. I was actually able to make things work

Good deal! That solenoid is Steve's equivalent of the coal furnace from "A Christmas Story"

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Everything now is working well but I think I'm going to get a replacement solenod to be safe. Steve, do you have that part #??

HWH part is RAP6354 - Solenoid, normally-open. Previous purchases have ranged between $95 and $145 depending on where purchased.

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Question: Where do you attach an air hose to inflate tires using the compressor? I printed the HWH compressor diagram (HWH Operator's Manual for the 680 series-page MP85.473E) for the system

Steve just checked - in our coach there's a quick-connect that's in the propane tank bay. The air hose is in the drawer in that bay of our coach. Keep in mind the aux compressor will only pressure up to 90 psi, so you can do your tag and toad tires, but you'll need the engine running to get to the pressures your steer and drive tires need.

Oh, and here's the manual for our HWH system - probably the same one you have - 2003 with no room locks. It's in the Files section on the board here.

The selected media item is not currently available.

Michelle

Re: Leveling system

Reply #10 – July 20, 2011, 11:45:11 pm

Thanks for the help and #.

Re: Leveling system

Reply #11 – July 21, 2011, 11:46:40 pm

Well, the compressor run-on problem is back, but solenod is NOT leaking. I've check every connection I can find with no sign of a leak. Any ideas??

Re: Leveling system

Reply #12 – July 22, 2011, 12:12:29 am

Sounds like a bad sensor. Just had MOT to replace the rear on my coach. The compressor wanted to run. DAN

Re: Leveling system

Reply #13 – July 22, 2011, 11:45:13 pm

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Well, the compressor run-on problem is back

Can't offer much more advice than the soapy water and spraying all the connections to look for bubbles, I'll let you know where I have found leaks in the past as a start.

I'd start in that utility bay since you worked in there you could have knocked something loose. just the lines from the compressor through the 3 filter bowls and to the first check valve (first inline brass fitting on the black output line from the final filter). Always worth looking where you worked last

Other known leak points ...

- the slide bladder valves on the left side of your HWH utility bay, (towards the back bottom). These really only tend to leak if you used them, but worth a check with the soapy water (or let the pump run for a bit, pull the fuse and give a listen, you might be able to hear those leaks)

- The slide bladders themselves, if these let go you can clearly hear these leaks, as well as your heart sink!

- The front pressure regulator, its close to the front 6-pack, has a pressure gauge on it as well. Used to prevent the front from raising to fast, in the past its been a notorious problem for me ... you can get a fine replacement at Lowes if this is leaking. Again normally when this leaks you can hear it from the front wheels.

- porch step slide cylinder, up behind the entry steps, (there is also another regulator but I've never had that one leak) but the cylinder itself has failed twice in 7 years.

- Front and rear six packs ... although these tend to leak, its takes a significant leak to prevent that pump from achieving pressure. I've had leaks in these but it tends to cause the pump to cycle more frequently than normal but not run on.

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Sounds like a bad sensor. Just had MOT to replace the rear on my coach. The compressor wanted to run.

Dan, I'm not familiar with a sensor in the rear of the coach that causes this issue (which means it has not failed for me yet!), are these on the 6 packs? I know there is another regulator back there (like the one by the front 6 pack). Anyway if there is 'common' failure point I want to know where so I can carry a spare part.

Re: Leveling system

Reply #14 – July 23, 2011, 03:28:24 pm

Steve: This is what MOT charged me for. Talk to Keith Davis. He can tell you about the sensor item. They sold me a replacement

. DAN

Re: Leveling system

Reply #15 – July 23, 2011, 03:44:22 pm

Quote from: Dan J. Stansel – July 23, 2011, 03:28:24 pm

Steve: This is what MOT charged me for. Talk to Keith Davis. He can tell you about the sensor item.

Dan,

Does the replacement part show a part number that starts with RAP (or AP)? If so, do you mind posting it? That would be an HWH part number so we could research..

Thanks,

Michelle

Re: Leveling system

Reply #16 – July 23, 2011, 07:21:45 pm

Michelle: Looking at my invoice: Appears to be Part # P61124 Sender,FRT/RR AIR TANK PRES>
Cost $128.00 after discount or 142.22 before discount. Labor to install $49.50.Hope this helps DAN

Re: Leveling system

Reply #17 – July 24, 2011, 01:06:08 pm

all you have to do is push the off button on the leveling panel i had to replace the air dryer and solenoid on 93 u280

Re: Leveling system

Reply #18 – July 25, 2011, 12:55:48 am

I think I've found the new air leak. It's in the mounting of the tube between the clear "bell jar?" and the solenod we've been discussing. I can,t really tell what if anything is used to create the seal-some sort of mastic? Any help would be appreciated.

Re: Leveling system

Reply #19 – July 26, 2011, 10:40:07 pm

Given where it is (capture side of the filter, on the blow out solenoid) you can try some Yellow Teflon tape (its double density and often referred to as "gas tape") on the threads or some Teflon pipe dope. You always want to be careful using Teflon tape around air lines as the Teflon likes to migrate to places you don't want, but in this case its the exhaust valve.

Note that PTFE tape is needs to be applied correctly to be effective and not bunch up when you tighten the connection. To apply you begin at the end of the pipe and wrap the tape under a little tension in the direction of the thread turns. Each successive layer should overlap the previous layer by 1/2 to 2/3 and continue wrapping until the entire threaded portion of the pipe is covered. (Minimum of 3 full turns). No tape should ever cover the pipe opening, so start a couple of threads down from the opening. Here the threaded section is going to be the width of the tape so two to three full overlap turns should be enough.

Re: Leveling system

Reply #20 – July 29, 2011, 12:26:14 am

Steve,
I've since found a crack in the clear plastic above the solenod. I assumed I'd have to go to HWH for a replacement. I went to a local (Eugene Or) RV repair shop. He had one in his throw away parts bin. It was installed and seem to work fine for a day, then compressor run-on returned. I don't see any cracks in th plastic but feel some air at the base of the fitting but nothing compared to the leaking soenod. Does it take much leakage to create the problem? I'm looking for yellow teflon tape now.
Larry

Re: Leveling system

Reply #21 – July 30, 2011, 12:17:59 pm

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Does it take much leakage to create the problem?

I'll say *generally* yes, a small leak will lead to excessive cycling of the pump (turns off comes back on in 30mins), a larger leak prevents it from reaching shutoff pressure (does not turn off). Now I said generally because that tipping point depends on the shutoff pressure, if its set very high even a small leak can be a problem.

Don't leave your drivers air tank switch 'on' when parked, that would make that little pump 'fill' more tanks (brake tanks) than it needs to when you are sitting and make it run for quite a bit. Also do you know what pressure your pump is set to turn off at? I've heard of people turning that up so they could use it to fill the coach tires from the aux pump, that could be a problem. (If there is not gauge in the pump bay I *think* you will need to turn on the drive pump switch and watch the gauges to see where the pump turns off, I believe 75psi is normal but I'm not sure, but it does not need to be very high).

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