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Topic: Grease & Crud Removal (Read 579 times) previous topic - next topic

Grease & Crud Removal

I'm still going from one thing to the next on the coach and after cleaning the carpet in the bedroom from being stupid and not covering it while doing all the work in the engine compartment, I thought I'd grease the drive shaft and u-joints. Then I thought I'd go up front and start greasing the front end. Once I started poking around I noticed that there seems to be 2 grease points for each wheel brake system....I thought there was only one fitting on each wheel. So, I took a 1" putty knife and started scraping away the funk that's been on there from 21 years of other people greasing things. It got real nasty to say the least. I put a towel under the front pass wheel  ( that's the only one I actually got finished ) to catch everything and when I was done, I thought I'd like to see it one step further and actually degrease it.
What would someone do to clean those fittings, ends, uppers, lowers, brake units etc?
Also the bottom of my engine and trans could use a cleaning too. I spent a day out there not long back sitting on the engine and scraping everything I could and then using a compressor, hose and air gun end to blow everything off.....but I'd still liketo have the residue gone and know that anything there from now on...IS ONLY FROM ME.

I don't have access to a steam cleaner but do have a 3200 PSI power washer. I just wanted to pick the brains of some of you to see what you would or have done. I don't like someone elses grime, grease and nasty on my stuff, :)
Carl Sandel
1991 36' U280
Northern Michigan

Re: Grease & Crud Removal

Reply #1 –
Power washers scare me as they can do untold damage from their high pressure on anything they touch.

And water can get into places that would be better off dirty.

Re: Grease & Crud Removal

Reply #2 –
I agree with Barrie-do not use a power washer esp' near electrical and radiator or your repair bill will be much bigger.
To clean engine I use either those cans of degreaser or Simple Green and a low pressure hose. May need some scraping-more work but no repair bills.
John
Coachless, now use aircraft. 2003 Ford Travelair TC280 class C. Super shape. Just for 1 yr .
1994 Ford E350 ClassC,total renovation inside and out. Now sold.
2000 U295  36' Cummins 350 c/w Banks Stinger, Resonator upgrade,Solar, LED lites.Residential fridge with slide out pantry. Build 5674. Sold
ex 92 GV 022C ored Cummins. Sold
ex 95 GV240 cat 3116. Sold
2017 Mini cooper s & 2016 land Rover LR2 HSE  LUX.
jhaygarth@aol.com    SKP #130098
treat everyone as you would like to be.

Re: Grease & Crud Removal

Reply #3 –
Understood. I wasn't going to just get wild with the power washer, lol. Just mentioning that it was one item I have that I do some work with. I was thinking about the cans of engine degrease and or brake cleaner / parts cleaner also and wanted to get your opinions about using it on the front end parts. There is well over a 1/4" build up of this stuff on and around all the grease fittings. I will continue with the scrape tool for a while then just pick up a case of the canned stuff.
Carl Sandel
1991 36' U280
Northern Michigan

Re: Grease & Crud Removal

Reply #4 –
Quote
seems to be 2 grease points for each wheel brake system....I thought there was only one fitting on each wheel. So, I took a 1" p
Carl, Be sure you know what you are greasing if you have disc brakes.  Very detailed procedure for them. Otherwise should be TWO fittings on each king pin and fittings on end of tie rods.  Also on mine there is a fitting on the linkage from the steering wheel to the steering box, it is up high and d,,, hard to reach, very easy to miss.

Gary B
 

Re: Grease & Crud Removal

Reply #5 –
Carl,
  Some accumulation of grease and crud in strategic areas can simplify maintenance and also preserve parts. One look at your isolator will give you an idea of what a I would consider a strategic area.
I routinely slobber excess grease on chassis bolts etc. to make later maintenance easier.
Good luck,
Rick