Radiator

Topic: Radiator (Read 1182 times) previous topic - next topic

Radiator

October 10, 2012, 05:41:01 am

Anyone, ever remove and replace their own radiator Unihome coach? The big question does it need to come out of the bottom or will it drop down and come out the side (side panel removed).

Re: Radiator

Reply #1 – October 10, 2012, 08:45:39 am

On 10/10/2012 5:41 AM, bbeane wrote:

Quote

Anyone, ever remove and replace their own radiator Unihome coach? The big question does it need to come out of the bottom or will it drop down and come out the side (side panel removed).

Bruce and Linda
1999 U295 40'

012 orange Jeep Wrangler
Debary, FL

I've seen it done - out the bottom

Re: Radiator

Reply #2 – October 10, 2012, 09:02:39 am

Sounds like a ton of fun

Re: Radiator

Reply #3 – October 10, 2012, 11:43:27 am

without a thought I would remove the side panel as I did to repair the CAC. After that is off the rad' is easy to get too and no awkward body positions to get into.
I do not understand why some people get negative on doing this as it is a simple procedure and takes maybe 30 mins.
No other way to fix things in my opinion.
John H

Re: Radiator

Reply #4 – October 10, 2012, 01:27:28 pm

They raised the rear about 18" with jack stands under the axle. Dropped it with a long frame floor jack...

Re: Radiator

Reply #5 – October 11, 2012, 12:00:22 am

If I remember correctly the CAC is bolted to the rad frame so taking it off first is needed and having the side panel off makes this an easy fix, at least on the 2000
John H

Re: Radiator

Reply #6 – October 11, 2012, 05:37:50 am

I have about decided to keep the coach, so next thing on my list of mechanical maintenance is a radiator recore and CAC cleaning, and new hoses and clamps. This will be a DIY job as it not highly technical just a lot of work certainly not worth $100.00+ per hr labor.

Re: Radiator

Reply #7 – October 11, 2012, 06:09:42 am

bbeane,
I am with you on the DIY, as for the $100 per hour, agree if your at a garage and they have to learn as they go, learning on your dime, however my experience with FOT and MOT makes it alot more reasonable as they learned years ago and are very proficient, making the outcome much more reasonable.
MHO
Dave M

Re: Radiator

Reply #8 – October 11, 2012, 06:59:30 am

i had mine pulled on my 99 and they took the side panel off and pulled it out that way.

Re: Radiator

Reply #9 – October 11, 2012, 12:15:45 pm

CAC = ?

best, paul

Re: Radiator

Reply #10 – October 11, 2012, 12:23:28 pm

Quote from: Paul Smith – October 11, 2012, 12:15:45 pm

CAC = ?

best, paul

Charge Air Cooler

Re: Radiator

Reply #11 – October 11, 2012, 12:27:07 pm

Quote from: Paul Smith

Quote
CAC = ?

best, paul

Charge Air Cooler

"Charge Air Cooler" did sound right before I asked about CAC, but still:

Charge Air Cooler = ?

best, paul

Re: Radiator

Reply #12 – October 11, 2012, 01:19:14 pm

CAC= Charge Air Cooler= After-cooler= Inter-cooler.

Between the turbo and engine intake. Takes hot intake air and cools it to near-ambient temperature.

Brett

Re: Radiator

Reply #13 – October 11, 2012, 01:26:27 pm

Quote

CAC= Charge Air Cooler= After-cooler= Inter-cooler.

Between the turbo and engine intake. Takes hot intake air and cools it to near-ambient temperature.

Cool! ;o)

I wonder if my 1978 MBZ 5 cylinder turbo-diesel autobahn croitzer had an inter-cooler. Probably yes.

best, paul

Re: Radiator

Reply #14 – October 11, 2012, 01:43:47 pm

The suject of lowering the intake air temp has been on going for atleast 50 years, I first noticed it being used on the Cat (343) 1693TA @ 425 HP and the Cummins NT855@350 HP engine, prior was the 335 and did not have the water cooled after cooler setup. The problem with the first generation after cooling, it used the water cooled and it could only reduce the intake temp to near the engine water temp, that was near the 195-200 deg area.
Today the intake air is closer to the ambient temp, depending on time of year, my reading runs between 60-98 deg, much better than the non cooled from the early days of up to 900 degree intake temp, then lowered into the 200 area, now in the under 100 degree temps.
So things are much better today. Now if they would bring the steam cooled diesel engine to market, the mileage wuld get better yet. Maybe wolfe10 can tell us when that will happen.
Enjoy
Dave M

Re: Radiator

Reply #15 – October 11, 2012, 07:18:02 pm

I have had to replace the radiator twice on my '99 320. Once was done from the bottom and once from the side. I think from side worked better as you could easily get to all the bolts.
I think recoring is the better approach.

Re: Radiator

Reply #16 – October 11, 2012, 07:24:31 pm

I recently had to replace my radiator in my 2003 U320. I took some photos of the process.
Radiator Replaced on a 2003 U320 Cummins M-11
Gives you an idea of what is involved. It is not a project I would like to tackle. There was no electrical wires to work on

Re: Radiator

Reply #17 – October 11, 2012, 08:13:51 pm

Geez, If I found some meat head mechanic jacking my coach by the hitch, I would be very upset, think about the stress put upon the bulkhead structure, all the weight is supported between the hitch and front axle, seems to me the very weak area would be in the bulk head area.
IF your going to jack it up, at least jack it up on the frame structure, or put a jack between the axle and frame on both sides for an example, but stressing the bulkhead area seems like a very poor idea that only happens to outers.
Like trying to tow the coach with a wrecker that can only lift by cable, so they run chain back to front axle and lift, you should see the results of that mess.
There are idiots behind every tree and there are lots of trees.
Hope no damage to your coach Barry, I would ssure check for bulk head bolt stretching/bending.
Dave M

Re: Radiator

Reply #18 – October 13, 2012, 06:17:46 pm

Since the talk about the CAC etc, today while driving I took a close look at the intake air temp and the outside air temp, found the intake after the CAC ran between 2-5 deg above the ambient. Found that interesting.
Dave M

Re: Radiator

Reply #19 – October 13, 2012, 11:51:04 pm

Is there a common cause of radiator failure? Sure hear a lot of replacement stories on all brands of coaches, at todays copper costs it would be an expensive proposition no doubt.

Chuck

Re: Radiator

Reply #20 – October 14, 2012, 09:42:06 pm

I decided to second Barry. I did not speak up before, thinking that if you are able to tackle the radiator replacement at your place, that is good. But I want to caution. If you do not have the necessary tools, equipment, this is to me, a novice at doing this, a fairly major job with some pretty heavy parts. MOT got a new radiator from FOT, MOT installed. It took on this 2001 making a new bracket, welding. Turned out the replacement was not an exact fit. Not a big deal for folks with the equipment to do this, but would have been major for me. The radiator I had could not be repaired. And it is heavy. Too they had to remove the "grill" on the side of the coach, then put back with proper adhesives the trim, some minor painting. Please, not to say all of you cannot do this. But I could not. Hope this helps, will send pictures if need of the bracket that needed modification on the new radiator to fit it into place. Mike

Re: Radiator

Reply #21 – October 14, 2012, 09:53:30 pm

I replaced mine in a 1999 U320 about three years ago and I removed it from the bottom. It was a very difficult job and was a lot of hard work because of all the other coolers they have crammed in there along with the hydraulic fans. The big help that made it possible for me to do it by myself was using two pieces of 24 inch allthread in the upper support brackets to lower it down very slowly. I clamped the supports one by one with vicegrips and replaced the bolts with allthread and running the nuts up tight so the vice grips could be removed. It is a slow process turning the bolts to lower he radiator but you have complete control. The radiator is very heavy, my guess is between 200-250 pounds.

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