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Airbag dry-rot

Attached is a pic of one of my rear airbags ( forward of the axle). The one in the same position on the passenger side also looks like this. I bought two new ones, but was thinking of just having a shop change them out for me when I go to have new tires mounted. It appears to be a very easy thing to do once the rear wheel is removed.

My question is, these are holding air just fine. Is is reasonable to think that a very short distance drive with these still in is safe?

Regards,

Michael
Michael
1995 U300SE CAT 3176B Build # 4612 ("Marvin")

Re: Airbag dry-rot

Reply #1
I think there is another very sustantial rubber layer inside of the ply's that are showing but will leave that to someone that hs cut one up after removing as mine are fine
John H
Coachless, now use aircraft. 2003 Ford Travelair TC280 class C. Super shape. Just for 1 yr .
1994 Ford E350 ClassC,total renovation inside and out. Now sold.
2000 U295  36' Cummins 350 c/w Banks Stinger, Resonator upgrade,Solar, LED lites.Residential fridge with slide out pantry. Build 5674. Sold
ex 92 GV 022C ored Cummins. Sold
ex 95 GV240 cat 3116. Sold
2017 Mini cooper s & 2016 land Rover LR2 HSE  LUX.
jhaygarth@aol.com    SKP #130098
treat everyone as you would like to be.

Re: Airbag dry-rot

Reply #2
Michael,

I have read once or twice where the owner replaced air bags like yours and cut the old ones open.  Below the surface there were plenty of plies, all in good order.

Mine look like yours and went from Houston to the Oregon coast and back and are still doing fine.

Hope this helps you.
Rudy Legett
2003 U320 4010 ISM 450 hp
2001 U320 4220 ISM 450 hp
1995 U320 M11 400 hp
1990 Granvilla 300 hp 3208T
Aqua Hot Service Houston and Southeast Texas

Re: Airbag dry-rot

Reply #3
When I picked up our coach in Naples Florida last July I stopped at Parliament Coach in Clearwater to have it serviced for the trip to MN. The airbags looked like yours. The service manager advised me to not drive the coach until they were replaced. We estimated that mine had never been replaced (21 years old). I was told air bags should be replaced at 10-12 years. Here is a picture of 6 of the new air bags before installation.

The fronts were easy. The rears required the fiberglass trim over the wheel to be loosened and the panel carefully "pulled out". 2 Techs did all eight in one day - fantastic job! I got tired just watching them.
Peter and Tammy Fleming
1991 U300 GV 40 - Sold, owned for 4 years
Downsized to Roadtrek Popular 210 class B

Re: Airbag dry-rot

Reply #4
Do you think it would be advisable to spray the air bags with the tire foam to keep the rubber playable?  Just thinking a way to prevent the dry rot in the first place.  David
David & Lou Ann Bouchard
Summer: Mount Vernon, Ohio
Winter: RiverBend Motorcoach Resort  LaBelle, Florida
2003 U320 38' Build #6174 "Willie"
2013 Cadillac SRX Toad
MC #17151 FMCA #F431393

Re: Airbag dry-rot

Reply #5
Some of the air bags on our 1997 U295 looked about like that when we bought the coach three years ago. We drove about 30K miles with no problems from the air bags. I had FOT replace all the air bags a few weeks ago when one developed a small leak. They did all the air bags without removing any panels or tires. My recollection is that labor was about 40 minutes/bag.
J D Stevens
1997 U295 CAI 36' Build #5085
2002 Subaru Outback
Motorcade 16869
Bellville, TX

Re: Airbag dry-rot

Reply #6
Do you think it would be advisable to spray the air bags with the tire foam to keep the rubber playable?  Just thinking a way to prevent the dry rot in the first place.  David
                    I spray & wipe 303 Aerospace Protectant on our airbags which is what I use on our tires for uv protection. IMHO, 303 is one of those products that I do not think is snake oil.

                          D&D
Dean & Deirdre

2012 Arctic Fox 22GQ
Was 2003 U270

Re: Airbag dry-rot

Reply #7
Michael,
I cut open one of my airbags that was nearly as rotted as yours.  There is about 1/8" of rubber inside the cords.  It had some stress lines, but was intact and showed no rotting.  If you are only going to drive a "very short distance", as you indicated, the chances are you will be OK.  However, I wouldn't put off installing the new ones.  One never knows how long they will last.  Mine were over 18 years old when I replaced all 8 of them.
Don Hay
'92 Grandvilla, U-280
The Hayfever Express
Build #4055
'97 GEO Tracker
Life is like licking honey off a thorn.

Re: Airbag dry-rot

Reply #8
Attached is a pic of one of my rear airbags ( forward of the axle). The one in the same position on the passenger side also looks like this. I bought two new ones, but was thinking of just having a shop change them out for me when I go to have new tires mounted. It appears to be a very easy thing to do once the rear wheel is removed.

My question is, these are holding air just fine. Is is reasonable to think that a very short distance drive with these still in is safe?

Regards,

Michael
Michael,
I drove all over the country last year with the original air springs that looked much like yours. On one stop I had to stay at for a couple of weeks I ordered some new ones and replace the worst ones (left rear, the rears seem to take the brunt of abuse) while in the campground. There is no need to remove the tires or the side panel to replace the air spring. Once at home I replaced the RR set. My front ones are still good and are easily replaced. If you do it yourself, pick up a few of the brass elbows to have on hand as they are easily damaged. Also I use Loctite anerobic pipe sealant on the treads of the elbow to avoid any leaks, the elbow must be in the correct alignment for reconnecting the air line and you may not be able to get the fitting tight enough and in the correct position. The fitting is brass and if you try to crank it around one more time you may twist it off in your new air bag. See previous detailed write-ups on air spring replacements.
Good luck.
Rick
Rick

Re: Airbag dry-rot

Reply #9
My airbags on the rear looked just like the pictures below so I replaced them one year ago. Last fall I replaced the fronts.

Replacing front airbags on a U300/U280 is easy according to a previous email, however, replacing front airbags on a U320/U295/U270 is impossible without cutting access holes like I did or removing side panels.

Replacing rear airbags on U320 etc is tricky but do-able without removing side panels.

Wyatt
96 U320 40 WTFE, build 4943
84 Toyota Supra towd
2015 Jeep Wrangler towd
Victoria, BC, Canada

Re: Airbag dry-rot

Reply #10
Yes you should be able to make a short trip just fine.  I have seen far worse on truck trailers that were still in service, but should not have been.

Keith
Keith, Joyce & Smokey the Australian Cattle Dog
1995 U320 SE Extreme 40' WTBI Build # 4780, with a Honda CR-V hopefully still following behind.
Motorcade # 17030
FMCA # F422159

Re: Airbag dry-rot

Reply #11
Just spray with a leak detector solution.  If there is no substantial leak, you are good to go a short distance.
Regards,
Brett

'99 42' Foretravel Xtreme
'14 Brown Motorsports Stacker
'05 Chevy SSR
'02 BMW R1150R

 

Re: Airbag dry-rot

Reply #12
We replaced our most forward front airbags recently and here is what we did. Normally the most difficult part of the job is to remove and reattach the air inlet.  To avoid having to remove the front panel we reversed the air inlet hose from the backside of the airbags to the wheel well side.
Raise coach and put metal supports in place
Depressurize bags so that the coach rests on the metal supports
Remove rubber portion of airbag by cutting it out with a utility knife
Remove airbag lower plate
Grind inlet nipple flush with airbag plate (From the inside bag area. This is accessable when the air bag is cut away)
Punch air inlet nipple out of the top plate
Remove remaining nut on top plate
Remove upper airbag plate
Remove nipple that is still attached to the air inlet tubing
Slice a 1/4" thick piece off the nipple
Drill the top plate stud hole to 3/4"

Now we are ready to install the new airbag

Collapse new airbag with a cargo strap
Slide 1/4" piece of nipple, previously cut, over top plate stud on airbag
Slide airbag into position
Remove strap
Install airbag air inlet through the newly drilled 3/4" hole and push the stud with the 1/4" thick bushing through the hole on the backside
Install nuts and snug up
Reroute hose to new air inlet location
Install air fitting with pipe sealant
Use air compressor to expand airbag for bolting up the bottom studs
Install remaining nuts and tighten the entire assembly

The racketing wrench was essential for tightening the top backside nut

Faith
The selected media item is not currently available.Bob & Faith Rozek
1997 U320 40'
Xtreme Remodel
2010 Scion XD