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Topic: Radiator Door Louvers Loose (Read 829 times) previous topic - next topic

Radiator Door Louvers Loose

The coach has an exterior fiberglass door with metal louvers in the center that covers the radiator on the passengers side.  The louvers are held on in 6 places around the perimeter with screws that go into the fiberglass door.  I've lost three of the six screws.  They have pulled out of the door. 

I'm not an expert on fiberglass but I assume the door was built in a mold.  It looks like the door has a core material inside the fiberglass around the perimeter to give it some rigidity.  Does anyone know what the core may be?  I'm guessing wood.

If so, I plan to drill out the holes a little bit, epoxy in a plastic wall anchor and reinstall the screws.  How does that sound?

Thanks,

Rich
Rich and Peggy Bowman
2002 U270 3610 WTFS, build #5939--"Freedom"
2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee Summit 4xe
SMI AirForceOne brake system
PakCanoe 15

Re: Radiator Door Louvers Loose

Reply #1 –
Rich,

If the panel is indeed cored (these panels on my coach are not, the panel is single skin and louvers are pop riveted to it, works well) then the core will be foam.  If you want to go back with screws I'd use epoxy like you said but with one exception.  Forget the wall anchor.  Insert the screw into the epoxy filled hole, let it sit and it's done.  If you wish to be able to withdraw the screw in the future then wax it heavily before inserting into the epoxy filled hole.

 Another alternative would be to forget the screws entirely and thru bolt the louver to the panel with stainless bolts.  Use some good size fender washers on the backside and a self locking bolt, a dab of adhesive caulk under each mounting pad and it's a done deal.  That's what I'd probably do. 

Chuck
"Not so  long ago we were a nation of risk takers, riding five million pounds of  thrust straight into space."  Joe Gresh
Chuck Pearson
1996 U295
2018 Can Am X3 TurboRS

Re: Radiator Door Louvers Loose

Reply #2 –
The frame around my grill is backed by wood. Your idea of wall anchors would be OK except that the epoxy probably will not bond well to the pvc wall anchor. As mentioned just fill the old hole with epoxy and replace the screws. It would be best to either wax the screw threads or at least use silicone grease on them to make removing them in the future possible.

If yours is backed by wood, the old wooden dowel trick and wood glue would probably also work fine.
The selected media item is not currently available.Kent Speers
Locust Grove, OK
1993 U300 SSE 40' (Restored at FOT 2009) Build 4323
720 watts Solar
6V92TA DDEC Silver Engine
2014 Subaru Outback

Re: Radiator Door Louvers Loose

Reply #3 –
I replaced all my rivets on that rad panel as I wanted easy access. Mine is only 1/8" thick at that point so I used the spring clips that push over edge and then a screw goes thru the hole. They are a common auto clip (boy wish I could think of the name) used to hold panels etc.
If this cannot be used then I too would do the bolt as Chuck mentioned
John H
Coachless, now use aircraft. 2003 Ford Travelair TC280 class C. Super shape. Just for 1 yr .
1994 Ford E350 ClassC,total renovation inside and out. Now sold.
2000 U295  36' Cummins 350 c/w Banks Stinger, Resonator upgrade,Solar, LED lites.Residential fridge with slide out pantry. Build 5674. Sold
ex 92 GV 022C ored Cummins. Sold
ex 95 GV240 cat 3116. Sold
2017 Mini cooper s & 2016 land Rover LR2 HSE  LUX.
jhaygarth@aol.com    SKP #130098
treat everyone as you would like to be.

Re: Radiator Door Louvers Loose

Reply #4 –
Quote from: John Haygarth –
I replaced all my rivets on that rad panel as I wanted easy access. Mine is only 1/8" thick at that point so I used the spring clips that push over edge and then a screw goes thru the hole. They are a common auto clip (boy wish I could think of the name) used to hold panels etc.
If this cannot be used then I too would do the bolt as Chuck mentioned
John H
These are Tinnerman Clips...
Peter & Beth Martin
No Forrest? What have you done?
MC# 15890 until Dec 2016; FMCA #F329677
Cincinnati, OH

Re: Radiator Door Louvers Loose

Reply #6 –
I have a bit of an issue that these will solve. Karma to you.

Roland
1993 U280 4341
2010 Jeep Liberty
The Pied Pipers

Re: Radiator Door Louvers Loose

Reply #7 –
Thanks for the inputs.  The current screws are into a part of the door that is about 1" or more thick.  The thru bolts would certainly work but I don't want to have a bolt head sticking out of the exterior fiberglas so I think drill, epoxy, wood or plastic plug (I'll see what the epoxy will grip) and new screws will be the preferred solution.  I'll give you an update when it gets warm enough here to get out and use the epoxy.

Thanks,

Rich
Rich and Peggy Bowman
2002 U270 3610 WTFS, build #5939--"Freedom"
2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee Summit 4xe
SMI AirForceOne brake system
PakCanoe 15

Re: Radiator Door Louvers Loose

Reply #8 –
Rich,

I would use these as they would give the best strength and not look bad (no bolt head showing).

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Keith
Keith, Joyce & Smokey the Australian Cattle Dog
1995 U320 SE Extreme 40' WTBI Build # 4780, with a Honda CR-V hopefully still following behind.
Motorcade # 17030
FMCA # F422159

Re: Radiator Door Louvers Loose

Reply #9 –
Keith,

I don't think I try that flatheaded screw but the link showed a threaded insert.  I might get some of those and epoxy them in and them put in a screw from the back side.

Rich
Rich and Peggy Bowman
2002 U270 3610 WTFS, build #5939--"Freedom"
2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee Summit 4xe
SMI AirForceOne brake system
PakCanoe 15

Re: Radiator Door Louvers Loose

Reply #10 –
Rich,
I used threaded inserts such as you describe to repair one of the latches on my utility bay door on which the rivets pulled loose. I bought mine at Home Depot and those that they had were 1/4-20 thread for on the female part of it and the external threads were very coarse for wood, but by sizing the whole to be just snug on the external threads and using epoxy to set it worked quite well. If you use these, it's not a bad idea to install them with the screws in them with their threats waxed so that you can keep epoxy out of the threads of the insert and still get the screws out afterwards.
Don
Quote from: richb3125 –
Keith,

I don't think I try that flatheaded screw but the link showed a threaded insert.  I might get some of those and epoxy them in and them put in a screw from the back side.

Rich
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Don & Tys
1999 U270 3602 WTFE #5402
Xtreme Stage 1 w/Headlight, Step Conversion, etc.
2009 Honda Fit Sport with Navi
Freedom is NOT "just another word for nothing left to lose"... with apologies to Kris Kristofferson

Re: Radiator Door Louvers Loose

Reply #11 –
Don,

Good suggestion.  I think I may even need to install them with the screw through the louver so it ends up with the correct alignment with the hole in the louver.

Rich
Rich and Peggy Bowman
2002 U270 3610 WTFS, build #5939--"Freedom"
2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee Summit 4xe
SMI AirForceOne brake system
PakCanoe 15
 

Re: Radiator Door Louvers Loose

Reply #12 –
Final report -- The radiator door frames do not have any internal support.  The are hollow and the fiberglas is only about 3/8"-1/2" max thick.  The structure seemed to be mostly glass sheet with little resin.  It is no wonder to me that the original screws pulled out over time.  I drilled out the stripped out holes, epoxyed in some plastic wall anchors and it went back together tight.  I'll keep an eye on it to make sure the repair will hold.

Thanks for all the input,

Rich
Rich and Peggy Bowman
2002 U270 3610 WTFS, build #5939--"Freedom"
2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee Summit 4xe
SMI AirForceOne brake system
PakCanoe 15