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Topic: Towing the FT for the "Oil Change" (Read 896 times) previous topic - next topic

Towing the FT for the "Oil Change"

Got towed in to Johnson City and had it repaired and back on the road.
Had to get towed 50 miles to Pascagoula.
Larry and Dave mentioned towing their coaches to repair the hydraulic system. Please tell me about the tows. Questions I have include:

Coach-Net, AAA, Good Sam, insurance company?
Flatbed trailer, wheel lift, something else?
Towing preparation - air suspension, axles, drive shaft?

If others have hints regarding towing a Unicoach, I'd be pleased to read them. I hope I never have the use the hints, but the benefit of shared experience may be of value.

When the seals failed in our steering gear, we continued the trip. I put two gallons of fresh Delo through the hydraulic system over a distance of about 1600 miles. It left quite a mess down the left side of the coach and the Jeep!
J D Stevens
1997 U295 CAI 36' Build #5085
2002 Subaru Outback
Motorcade 16869
Bellville, TX

Re: Towing the FT for the "Oil Change"

Reply #1
Good point. Over on WOG there is a permanent section on towing a 'Bird. They note that quite a bit of expensive damage can be done by improperly towing. I don't know whether or not that might be true for Foretravels, but I suspect that if could be true. We have the option of calling the factory and getting their advice, but I suspect that they really wouldn't appreciate hearing from each one of us. Perhaps someone from the factory could gather the information and post a simple table here. That way each of us can simply print out what applies to our own coach and have it handy should the need arise.

Re: Towing the FT for the "Oil Change"

Reply #2
Towing a Foretravel provides information on towing a Foretravel. I'm still curious about specific experiences. I look forward to exposition of some "real life" towing stories.
J D Stevens
1997 U295 CAI 36' Build #5085
2002 Subaru Outback
Motorcade 16869
Bellville, TX

Re: Towing the FT for the "Oil Change"

Reply #3
Dave, FT Manual gives info for towing.  Main thing is to either remove the axles or remove the drive shaft.  I would opt for removing the axles as too many things can go wrong when an inexperienced operator takes the shaft out. I have never had to be towed ( KNOCK WOOD ) so I am not the world's expert.
Gary B

Re: Towing the FT for the "Oil Change"

Reply #4
I've had my coach towed but mine is a Unihome not a Unicoach.  Before the truck driver ever arrived I marked my driveline parts with arrows pointing to the mating surfaces and lettered them A,B,C etc.  I used a paint pen so they would last and they are still there today 10+ years later.  The tow truck driver appreciated the pre-marked driveline.  I actually recommend everyone do it now at your convenience since it will likely have a lot of grime on it and take a little work to clean it before you can mark it.  I was fortunate in that the coach would run a while (decreasing random times) before the ECU would do a gradual shutdown.  I made it to a RV park at the end of the day and arranged for the tow the next day.

The tow truck was the kind that lift the front axle but its reach wasn't long enough with the coaches overhang so he lifted it by the frame.  I was concerned about the front axle:  as far as I could tell the front axle would be hanging by the air bags - not good.  So I insisted he support the front axle with some chains to the frame.  I think it might be good to communicate that distance when you call for a tow.  I'm still wondering if the chain to the axle was necessary but for now better to be safe than sorry.  Maybe someone else on the forum knows.

As for the root cause:  The A/C dash was nonfunctional at the time and the V-belts for the compressor were too loose and were bouncing around. The inner one managed to contact the outside of the DDEC oil pressure sensor, wore away the plastic outer housing, and made the sensor intermittent.
John Fitzgerald
1991 U300 (SAI) Side Aisle Island Bed 40'
Detroit 6V92 with Allison Retarder
Meridian (Boise), Idaho

Re: Towing the FT for the "Oil Change"

Reply #5
... Before the truck driver ever arrived I marked my driveline parts with arrows pointing to the mating surfaces and lettered them A,B,C etc.  I used a paint pen so they would last and they are still there today 10+ years later.  The tow truck driver appreciated the pre-marked driveline.  I actually recommend everyone do it now at your convenience since it will likely have a lot of grime on it and take a little work to clean it before you can mark it.  ...

The tow truck was the kind that lift the front axle but its reach wasn't long enough with the coaches overhang so he lifted it by the frame.  ...

John,

Thank you for sharing your experience. The tip on marking the drive line sounds like an excellent idea.

We arranged for a tow of our 37' SOB DP during an event in 2009. Coach-Net arranged the tow. Distance from front of coach to the front axle was one of the measurements they requested in order to arrange the tow. That inspired confidence that the representatives at Coach-Net know how to arrange a proper dispatch. Fortunately, I was able to fix the problem after the blizzard cleared and before the tow truck had left the barn.

We've had no "show stoppers" on our travels - yet, but I would like to have the benefit of the experience of those who have "been there, done that."
J D Stevens
1997 U295 CAI 36' Build #5085
2002 Subaru Outback
Motorcade 16869
Bellville, TX

Re: Towing the FT for the "Oil Change"

Reply #6
Please tell me about the tows. Questions I have include:

Coach-Net, AAA, Good Sam, insurance company?
Flatbed trailer, wheel lift, something else?
Towing preparation - air suspension, axles, drive shaft?

I started with Camping World's Road Care (sister company of Good Sam ERS) and only had them one season.  Was very disappointed in them.  Had a just released convict for Alabama State Prison sent to work on my rig by them, while in a remote interstate rest area.  Second time I used them they stranded me in Columbus, Ohio, over a weekend with a broken alternator belt.  I ended up handling the problem myself.  Found CW's Road Care to be very unprofessional. 

I switched to Coach-Net and have been very happy with them.  They have gone above and beyond what has been required by the contract.  When I picked up my used Foretravel, I blew a fan belt before getting out of town.  Had not notified Coach-Net of the change of motorhomes, as I still had the old Allegro.  When I  was asked about the vehicle I was driving, they said that it was not the motorhome I had listed with them and they were not required to respond to it.  The call center lady said she would check with her supervisor and see if they could help me out.  Long story short, they did, when they did not have to.  And the tow that they sent was Class A in my book.  The tow company called and confirmed all the details of what they had to tow,  Wanted me to measure the distance from the front bumper to the center of the steer axle.  They arrived with a recovery rig that rivaled any tow truck on the highway.  Did everything that were required of them and took extreme care not to damage any part of my coach.  I am very happy with them! 

When someone asks about Emergency Road Service, I am very quick to tell them about Coach-Net and their excellent service.  All because of how I was treated by another ERS outfit!!!

Things you want to be able to tell the tow company before they arrive - the distance between very front of the coach bumper to the center of the steering axle.  They pick you up by lifting your front tires, and they have to be able to reach them with their wheel lift boom.  You want to know where they can attach their air line too, so that your coach's brakes will work with the tow truck's brakes.  Air suspension too!  It would be nice if Foretravel put that air hookup right in the front of the coach!!!  Mine is in the first compartment behind the front axle, so the air hose had to run down the side of the coach to that compartment.  Had to hang it over the side mirror.  Same with the brake lights for the rear.  The ran a electric cord all the way to the rear of the coach for brake and turn lights.  They wrapped rags around it to prevent rubber marring.

Oh, you mentioned flat bed trailer, and many will tell you to demand a low boy trailer.  They can do as much damage as a regular recovery tow truck, and maybe even more!  It is all about the quality and knowledge of the operator!!!!
1994 U225
build #4514

Re: Towing the FT for the "Oil Change"

Reply #7
Sounds like another good reason I never replaced the belt for my compressor after it fell off ;o)

best, paul

Quote
As for the root cause: The A/C dash was nonfunctional at the time and the V-belts for the compressor were too loose and were bouncing around. The inner one managed to contact the outside of the DDEC oil pressure sensor, wore away the plastic outer housing, and made the sensor intermittent.
1999 U320 40' 1200 watts on roof. 12cf AC/DC Cold plate fridge/freezer. VMS 240 CL Honda Element

Re: Towing the FT for the "Oil Change"

Reply #8
I had mine towed 58 miles to amarillo. I have AAA premier service which paid all of the $585 tow bill. It was a 4 axle truck that showed up. The driver was very knowledgable of towing this type of vehicle. I showed him the receivers behind the fiberglass covers in thee front that FT put in for towing. He wanted no part of them. Instead had a long sling that extended all the way to the front axle. He installed some air fitting to hook up his air system to coach which provided air for the brakes and the suspension. Removed drive shaft and we were on our way.
Randy
1994 U280 40'

Re: Towing the FT for the "Oil Change"

Reply #9
From the beginning this tow was a mess. Good Sam whom we've had for about four years. Haven't needed a tow since 2005 and that was an SOB. Driver arrived sooner than Good Sam said and was knowledgeable and got us hooked up right away. The truck was very big and supported the front wheels with room to clear to spare. Now come the fun, he didn't have a socket to remove the lug nuts. Didn't have a bar to use my wrench supplied by FT. Called and had someone from his office bring a lot of sockets. Guy arrived with one that his boss said was what we needed. Wrong! not the right size. Called his office again and now the boss brought the correct socket with 1/2 " drive and an electric 1/2" impact wrench. They finally decided to remove the drive shaft and we were off down the road. Arrived at the facility to do the work and they hooked up the drive shaft and we were ready to spend the night and get the work done the next day. Called Good Sam at about 1:00 pm and they were done with the two about 9:15 pm. I had the mechanic the next day check the drive shaft to be sure it was hooked up properly. Good Sam was great and the original driver was great. We're back on the road. So all is right with the world!
Larry
1996 U295 36'
Build # 4805
Actually we sold it but just like to lurk

Re: Towing the FT for the "Oil Change"

Reply #10
After I blew a hydraulic line and lost power steering and cooling fan I called my roadside service, Progressive Insurance.  Road side assistance and towing are covered with my policy.  When the tow truck arrived he backed up to the coach extended the lift unit under the front axel.  Lifted the coach slightly and then removed the axel from the drivers side covering the hub with a rubber seal under a piece of plywood.  I have heard of others having a steel plate made with rubber backing.  I inquired about pulling the other axel and he ensured me it was not necessary.  The coach was towed to Cummings of Elkhart, about 60 miles.  The shop ensured me that no damage would be done by pulling only one axel.  I have put on over 10 K miles since with no problems.  The only thing I would do different is to ensure the mud flap did not contact the road as I received a very road rash worn mud flap.  I would have had the driver budgie cord it up some how.  Hope this helps.  David 
David & Lou Ann Bouchard
Summer: Mount Vernon, Ohio
Winter: RiverBend Motorcoach Resort  LaBelle, Florida
2003 U320 38' Build #6174 "Willie"
2013 Cadillac SRX Toad
MC #17151 FMCA #F431393

Re: Towing the FT for the "Oil Change"

Reply #11
    
    I too didn't want to disconnect the driveshaft.  Had experienced trouble with some of my construction equipment and didn't want a repeat.
    The way I rigged up is fairly simple.  I went a truck repair shop and picked up a bad axel.  Took it home and cut the axel off of the outer cap.  Went to a parts store and picked 2 gaskets to fit, one to use and one for a spare.  Voila!  Project complete.  Now I haven't ever had to use it, and hope I never will.

    LynnD
    '01 GV

Re: Towing the FT for the "Oil Change"

Reply #12
I have two axle caps from Blank Title - Home  (model MR8D-1 fits our coaches) and hope we never need to use them (maybe it's like carrying an umbrella?)  Kind of pricey, but hey - it's insurance.

I think I got the link from a post by Barry and Cindy a long time ago.
Towing - axle shaft removed
Dave and Nancy
1999/2013 U270 36' Xtreme
Motorcade # 16774
2013 Subaru Outback
KD0NIM

 

Re: Towing the FT for the "Oil Change"

Reply #13
So is the consensus that only one axle needs to be pulled?  And what is the secret to pulling the drive line?  I've looked at mine, haven't a clue how it comes off.  I see no bolts holding the caps on.
1996 U270
Build #4846