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Topic: loose screw- no jokes please ;) (Read 920 times) previous topic - next topic

loose screw- no jokes please ;)

While trying to bring the exterior of my coach up to it's best possible condition, we noticed while buffing that the screws on the upper molding were catching the wool from the buffing pad.  Further analysis showed most- if not all the screws up there-were loose.  I've re-tightened them for now but will go back later and remove/re-bed each screw.  For now, I'm storing my coach inside.
Coach Build # 5862/40'/2001/U320/Motorcader 17136

Re: loose screw- no jokes please ;)

Reply #1 –
Quote from: MemoryRoads –
While trying to bring the exterior of my coach up to it's best possible condition, we noticed while buffing that the screws on the upper molding were catching the wool from the buffing pad.  Further analysis showed most- if not all the screws up there-were loose.  I've re-tightened them for now but will go back later and remove/re-bed each screw.  For now, I'm storing my coach inside.

Part of the natural beauty of the vehicle.  Haha.  I remember refusing to sell new Foretravels to people with no sense of humor.  Was going to be an ugly ownership experience if they were not smiling most of the time.

Yes screws fall out.  Its a house shaking apart as it is being driven and used. 

Yes I know you know all that.  Thanks for the heads up.  Will look at mine now that you mentioned it. 

Bob
"Riding and rejoicing"
Bob
1997 U320 40' Mid entry, build 5132,  wtbi ce27, 4th owner
2007 Solara convertible
2 prodeco tech outlaw ss electric bikes

1095 watts solar
08 Ls 460 and a sc430
2000 Ford F-250 superduty 4x4

Re: loose screw- no jokes please ;)

Reply #2 –
Bob, You 'got it!'

It seemed to me after seeing this..... and having 'never' seeing anything about this on this forum,that it was a good heads up for all of us.
ron
Coach Build # 5862/40'/2001/U320/Motorcader 17136

Re: loose screw- no jokes please ;)

Reply #3 –
It just like house mouses.  They somehow get inside whether its a house on a foundation or on wheels.
1994 U225
build #4514

Re: loose screw- no jokes please ;)

Reply #4 –
Ron,

Thanks for the heads up.  I probably have a few screws loose myself!  I will check mine out tomorrow if it stops raining long enough. :(
Don't want any loose moldings or places where leaks can occur if possible.  How are you going to tighten/reseat the screws to make them watertight?

Jerry
The selected media item is not currently available.
Jerry and Cindy Maddux
1993 U300/36WTBI DD6v92TA
build 4271  "Miss Lou"
1995 suzuki sidekick 4x4 toad
Gulfport, Ms

"Pride of Ownership"

Re: loose screw- no jokes please ;)

Reply #5 –
I'm not sure which sealant I'll use on these screws.  I would guess a good exterior silicone would be fine but maybe others have a better solution.  For sure, I became immediately concerned, as these screws go thru the molding, then a very thin layer of gelcoated glass before next passing through a thin layer of luan typ plywood before securing itself in the box tubing of the framework.  I photographed one of the screws, which does show some slight staining from rust and that would be where the screw goes through the metal of the box tubing.  It is where the screw is clean, between this rust stain and the head of the screw, where even slight bits of water but continuously over time, do some damage to the wood.  It's an easy fix with a screw driver, sealant and a decent sized step ladder and will be done before I take mine out of the barn again.
Coach Build # 5862/40'/2001/U320/Motorcader 17136

Re: loose screw- no jokes please ;)

Reply #6 –
I use  3M 5200 marine adhesive sealant .It's good for just about anything from gas tanks to rub rails.Gam
joseph gambaro
1999 U295 36'

Re: loose screw- no jokes please ;)

Reply #7 –
I posted about the screws coming loose last year and suggested that you all do a 2 times a year check of them as they DO come loose.
If really loose just use a couple of wood tooth picks in the hole then put a dab of wood glue in the hole and replace screw. It should last quite a long time. These loose screws can cause many small leaks and you never know about it till too late. I check evry single one--even holding lights/ etc on body. A rusty looking one should be thrown and a new stainless used
John
Coachless, now use aircraft. 2003 Ford Travelair TC280 class C. Super shape. Just for 1 yr .
1994 Ford E350 ClassC,total renovation inside and out. Now sold.
2000 U295  36' Cummins 350 c/w Banks Stinger, Resonator upgrade,Solar, LED lites.Residential fridge with slide out pantry. Build 5674. Sold
ex 92 GV 022C ored Cummins. Sold
ex 95 GV240 cat 3116. Sold
2017 Mini cooper s & 2016 land Rover LR2 HSE  LUX.
jhaygarth@aol.com    SKP #130098
treat everyone as you would like to be.

Re: loose screw- no jokes please ;)

Reply #8 –
I like to see these bedded in a good polysulfide or 4200.  I am concerned with 5200, which is an excellent product, but is PERMANENT.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: loose screw- no jokes please ;)

Reply #9 –
Another place to look for leaking screws is the trim band at floor level of any of the GV's.  The screws secure the molding to the fiberglass panel and sometimes into the exposed floor plywood behind the panel.  The plywood is exposed to road spray from both front and rear tires.  I am thinking about sealing it with silicone, any ideas.
Steve & Nancy Snow
1987 GV 40'

Re: loose screw- no jokes please ;)

Reply #10 –
I don't have a Foretravel yet, but I can say that I would recommend (beg) against silicone.  First of all, it doesn't make the best caulking bond, but, much worse than that, it leaves a pretty-much-permanent contamination that will make it very hard to ever re-caulk, and virtually impossible to paint if you ever want to.  Just ask at a body shop if you can bring in some silicone and I bet the pitchforks will come out (yes, I've wrestled with it... ugh!!).

By the way, 4200 and 5200 are both polyurethanes, which would be a decent caulk for this application.  As Brett noted, 5200 is also a very strong adhesive, which probably is not really needed and will make it difficult to re-repair if ever needed. 4200 is also adhesive but less so.  3M no longer makes a polysulfide that I know of (they used to make 101), but there are still some available, Lifecalk being one.

Since I haven't seen the joint, I'm not sure what I would choose.  Probably butyl or a polyurethane with moderate adhesive qualities.  If any threads needed filling (haven't see how it all goes together, but just guessing due to mention of toothpicks), I'd generally tend to use thickened epoxy for that.

Re: loose screw- no jokes please ;)

Reply #11 –
Had to check what I had aboard my boat, to remind me and it seems I was using 3M 101 sealant(by the way, it seems to still be listed on 3M's site)
Also, I do have to agree with Brett, that 5200 is far too agressive an adhesive for small screws.  Used 4200 before so i would be less likely to run into problems removing items aboard, but never had to, so do not know if it too would be more adhesion than necessary.
I have used the 101 by 3M for most of my small fasteners and have never had a leak.  That's on my boat and small class C rv.

Coach Build # 5862/40'/2001/U320/Motorcader 17136

Re: loose screw- no jokes please ;)

Reply #12 –
M Roads- you should not really need to use a sealant if the screws hold tight. That is one of the reasons for the taper and also why I like to fill the old hole with toothpicks then a dab of yellow glue. They hold fast yet not permanent. As you know I have removed body panels many times and this is my preferred method to hold screws. It really does work well and pulls the trim strips nice and tight which is what you want.
John H
Coachless, now use aircraft. 2003 Ford Travelair TC280 class C. Super shape. Just for 1 yr .
1994 Ford E350 ClassC,total renovation inside and out. Now sold.
2000 U295  36' Cummins 350 c/w Banks Stinger, Resonator upgrade,Solar, LED lites.Residential fridge with slide out pantry. Build 5674. Sold
ex 92 GV 022C ored Cummins. Sold
ex 95 GV240 cat 3116. Sold
2017 Mini cooper s & 2016 land Rover LR2 HSE  LUX.
jhaygarth@aol.com    SKP #130098
treat everyone as you would like to be.

Re: loose screw- no jokes please ;)

Reply #13 –
Hi John, You're correct. I should really not 'need' to use a sealant, (IF... the screws hold tight/threads good, material not stripped out)  I try, not to leave too much to chance and realize also, I am sometimes lazy, forgetful  or just trying to do too many things in life and not one who keeps a list of things to do on a set schedule.  I sure wish I WAS all of those things, but I am what I am.

To hopefully compensate a bit, I overbuild usually. That said, a little bit of sealant on a screws threads or just under the head, can only add another layer of potential protection and minimal cost or time difference.

I use toothpicks when I have a hole in wood that needs to be made smaller for a fastener to hold.  At some stores, HD? Lowes? Radio Shack?( I forget) they sell little aluminum sticks (1/16" wide?) with zig-zag gyrations in them.  Stick one of them in...as you suggest with a toothpick and it works well in other materials too, not just wood.  However, your method is just fine.

Hey, I want to thank you for all of your postings.  I spent a lot of time over the last few years, reading...........  Did many small projects this spring, in between work I had to do beyond my FT.  Your postings and others were extremely worthwhile.  One on the CAC cooler wear issue caused by a loose fuel cooler in the Right Rear compartment, led me to check it out and Yup, your 'heads up' got me into a quick repair for a loose bolt/miserable repair done prior by someone.  You saved my butt on that one!  Again thanks.
Coach Build # 5862/40'/2001/U320/Motorcader 17136

Re: loose screw- no jokes please ;)

Reply #14 –
I would disagree with the "you don't need sealant" statement.

I understand completely the theory behind tapered fasteners, but in the world of moving parts, I like a sealant on any fastener.

Over the last 40 years in the marine and RV environment I have seen too many failures due to "it should have worked".

Brett
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: loose screw- no jokes please ;)

Reply #15 –
I have to agree with Alex P on the non use of silicone, especially if there is any chance of future paint projects. In the automotive plants silicone sprays, caulking etc. were forbidden to be on the jobsite. If any of the silicone particulates would become airborn and get into the paint line, it would cause a fisheye effect on the paint. If you were found to have these products on the plant property you stood the chance of buying any and all vehicles which had been affected by the particulates floating and landing on the vehicle.

One contractor in Dayton had inadvertantly sprayed some chemicals on some metal being installed. The floating overspray affected over 250 vehicles. His insurance company had to buy them, they were forced out of business.

Larry
Larry Warren
1996  U320 36' SBID "Lola" sold 2020
Build #4970
Motorcade #18318
 

Re: loose screw- no jokes please ;)

Reply #16 –
Hee hee hee!! Y'all are so spoiled. Never heard of loose panel or molding screws on the forum eh? That's just one of many signs that you bought the right road castle from the right manufacturer..I reset a few on ours right after we brought it home, and just didn't think it was worth mentioning, geez it was only a couple-three screws or so, nothing at all what I was used to! See, with an SOB, this is standard and expected, at least with the one we used to have. What I've done with the countless loose panel screws before is, remove the screw and get a new one because the old one is invariably rusted out, inject some epoxy in the hole, cover a new screw in antisieze, and reinstall. If you can put a wider fastener in, then do so, maybe it'll hold a while longer.
Jay
1989 U280 SE, 36', 3208T Cat, build 3292