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Topic: Main entry door latching -- just not right (Read 610 times) previous topic - next topic

Main entry door latching -- just not right

Ever since I acquired "Marvin", the entry door has not closed the way I thought it should. It requires a fairly firm pull from the inside or push from the outside for it to latch completely. By completely I mean where there is no free play and the dead bolt easily slides into the hole in the door frame.

I don't believe I have a vertical alignment problem from door sag due to the hinge support, but have attached pictures showing the alignment of the original graphics, and the main door hinge.

I do have a question about the latches themselves. The main one is pictured, along with the peg it grabs to achieve closure. But I also have a lower peg, and on the door there is another opening in the frame also pictured, but with nothing in it to grab that lower peg.

Am I missing some part of the latch mechanism? -- that maybe fell down inside the door or something?

I have tried various adjustments of that top peg to make the door close a bit easier ( I mean latch, easier) -- but there is only a up & down movement available, not any in or out adjustment.

Any thoughts or direct experience with this door situation. I just think it should be a smoother operation -- not having to practically slam it to get it to latch.

Be careful out there,

Michael
Michael
1995 U300SE CAT 3176B Build # 4612 ("Marvin")

Re: Main entry door latching -- just not right

Reply #1 –
Have you lost the hinge spacers as there looks like a couple of gaps in the piano hinge and although I have a different set up I read that there should be a plastic insert in those spots. It looks like it is aligned right though. Was that other one for an inside screen door?? Just thinking aloud
John h
Coachless, now use aircraft. 2003 Ford Travelair TC280 class C. Super shape. Just for 1 yr .
1994 Ford E350 ClassC,total renovation inside and out. Now sold.
2000 U295  36' Cummins 350 c/w Banks Stinger, Resonator upgrade,Solar, LED lites.Residential fridge with slide out pantry. Build 5674. Sold
ex 92 GV 022C ored Cummins. Sold
ex 95 GV240 cat 3116. Sold
2017 Mini cooper s & 2016 land Rover LR2 HSE  LUX.
jhaygarth@aol.com    SKP #130098
treat everyone as you would like to be.

Re: Main entry door latching -- just not right

Reply #2 –
We have the same issue. I suspect that some previous owner replaced the door seal with an SOB version. I keep meaning to order a correct one. The door seal extrudes at the bottom of the door.

Craig
1993 U225 36' Unihome GV with PACBRAKE exhaust retarder, Banks Stinger and Solar Panels.
Toad: 1999 Jeep Wrangler 2-door soft-top.

"No one has ever had to evacuate a city because the solar panels broke."

Re: Main entry door latching -- just not right

Reply #3 –
Michael,
The hinges on my coach are different but I have the same latch and strike (or peg).  I've adjusted it a number of times usually due to sag.  My strike has a captivated floating nut plate behind the frame that allows adjustment up and down, as well as in and out.  I had a similar problem getting the deadbolt to operate freely even though the door seemed to be sucked in enough.  I finally moved the striker plate on the deadbolt and it's been great ever since.  BTW, mine doesn't have the lower alignment receiver and strike - that looks like it's supposed to carry vertical loads as the coach flexes going down the road (or into driveways as the case maybe).
John Fitzgerald
1991 U300 (SAI) Side Aisle Island Bed 40'
Detroit 6V92 with Allison Retarder
Meridian (Boise), Idaho

Re: Main entry door latching -- just not right

Reply #4 –
Michael, our door has the same bolt and mechanism as yours. It was getting harder to close each year and required slamming it harder and harder. About a month ago I posted that I moved the latch bolt (for lack of a better description) until it was located where the paint indicated original position. The door now closed quietly and easily. Locking and unlocking with the key from the outside is silky smooth now.
Lube the latch mechanism and keep trying different locations until the door closes securely and easily.
Nitehawk,  Demolition Lady, & our NEW master, Zippy the speeding BB cat.
1989 Grand Villa 36' ORED
Oshkosh chassis, 8.2 DD V8
2006 Saturn Vue AWD

Re: Main entry door latching -- just not right

Reply #5 –
Howdy Michael,  This link may help: foretravel_motorhome_sagging_door_repair
Good Luck, Dave A
Dave and Nancy Abel
'00 U320 36' WTFE  Build #5669
'10 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon
Livingston, TX  SKP's Fulltiming

Re: Main entry door latching -- just not right

Reply #6 –
Michael ,
I can see in the picture that you are missing the height controll spacer.
Without it you will wear out the hinge and the latch.
You can make them ( should be two, top and bottom)out of Pex water pipe.
Hold the door up and cut the pipe a little long, the file off just enough so it will just fit into the hinge. Split it with a box cutter and work it over the hinge pin.
The latch won't have to lift the door when you close it saving wear on the latch and the door will close easy.
John Duld
1995 U320C SE 40'

Re: Main entry door latching -- just not right

Reply #7 –
Thanks for the tips -- I'll make up two of those plastic spacers.

I'm still really curious about that lower post, and the door frame U-shaped opening that allows for it to enter it -- but no visible means of a positive location on the post.
Michael
1995 U300SE CAT 3176B Build # 4612 ("Marvin")
 

Re: Main entry door latching -- just not right

Reply #8 –
The bottom post with a roller on the door frame and the U-shaped door slot is not a lock or latch, just a vertical door alignment aid.

And for sure the plastic inserts just mentioned will solve your problem.