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Topic: entry step caulking (Read 545 times) previous topic - next topic

entry step caulking

I am rebuilding my entry flip down step.  does anybody know the
caulking that foretravel used between the metal and the fiberglass
around the edges of the step?

Re: entry step caulking

Reply #1 –
I'm not sure if yours is same as mine but what I did was remove all of the caulking in that area.  My belief was there was a lot of rust in there and the caulking only made it worse by keeping the water in there.  I took my fiberglass apart from the metal, wire brushed the heck out of it and then painted with rustoleum and then covered with truck bed liner coating.  I also drilled another hole in the fiberglass to allow moisture to drain out even better, and then put back together with stainless screws.  I did this about 6-12 mos ago and so far have been pleased with the result.  I have not put a rug/carpet on the step yet and may do this with some outdoor carpet.  My reasoning reflects the same and that would be retention of the water.  May still do tho as I do like that.  I guess this job is still incomplete.  LOL I do have good intentions. 
Best of Travels

Re: entry step caulking

Reply #2 –
Wayne, I was told to use silicone caulking and can see no problems with that advice.  Use it for internal rebuilding on that step or surface sealing on last stages.
Coach Build # 5862/40'/2001/U320/Motorcader 17136

Re: entry step caulking

Reply #3 –
Xtreme overhauled our step. Their method was very similar to what Scruggs did. They did use some kind of caulk between the fiberglass cover and the metal step to discourage entry of water into the step.
J D Stevens
1997 U295 CAI 36' Build #5085
2002 Subaru Outback
Motorcade 16869
Bellville, TX

Re: entry step caulking

Reply #4 –
When I redid our step I posted pics of it and I drilled 3 1/4 holes in the steel frame to allow water to drain out from all sections inside. 3 holes were in the lowest(step up) cross piece so I drilled 3/16 holes in the fibreglass to align with the 1/4 ones so all water will drain out. I used a SS screw on each end of step to hold the cover to frame. I did put a bit of caulking around edge to help and hold but am not worried about it as water does come out, I have seen it after I put the step in up position.
John H
Coachless, now use aircraft. 2003 Ford Travelair TC280 class C. Super shape. Just for 1 yr .
1994 Ford E350 ClassC,total renovation inside and out. Now sold.
2000 U295  36' Cummins 350 c/w Banks Stinger, Resonator upgrade,Solar, LED lites.Residential fridge with slide out pantry. Build 5674. Sold
ex 92 GV 022C ored Cummins. Sold
ex 95 GV240 cat 3116. Sold
2017 Mini cooper s & 2016 land Rover LR2 HSE  LUX.
jhaygarth@aol.com    SKP #130098
treat everyone as you would like to be.
 

Re: entry step caulking

Reply #5 –
I'm not familiar with the exact joint being discussed, so this is more general.  But presuming one wanted to use caulk between fiberglass and metal, I would probably use a moderately adhesive polyurethane, such as 3M 4200.  If it's strongly mechanically fastened, you could also use something less adhesive such as butyl or even polysulfide.  3M4000 might be a possibility (it's a polyether) too.  The white is more resistant to yellowing in UV (not sure if this caulk will even be seen).

I wouldn't use silicone, myself, for a few reasons:

1) It gives no better bond than the others, and maybe worse.

2) It is nearly impossible to get off certain surfaces when the time comes to re-bed (and it always comes).  I've had to scrape metal (i.e put big scratches in) trying to get it off.

3) The biggie: Silicone leaves an almost unremovable contamination on surfaces which makes it so nothing else will ever stick (even more silicone).  Forget ever painting (fish-eye city). 

Given the disadvantages, and the fact that there are other products that do as good or better a job without having them, I pretty much always choose something else.