Key for engine compartment door on 1989? (split from another topic)

April 23, 2015, 11:05:22 am

Good Info, Thanks..!!!

Good news, previous owner sent me an owners manual...

Bad news is, it's pretty much just wiring schematics..

I am assuming I can access the motor from some panel in the rear to check and add fluids ?

The previous owner showed me how the queen bed lifts to access the motor room. Hopefully that's not whats required to check the fluids..

Please excuse my ignorance.. I've only seen the coach briefly one week ago and will see it for the second time tomorrow, and I have no operating or maintenance manuals at hand..

Re: Key for engine compartment door on 1989? (split from another topic)

Reply #1 – April 23, 2015, 09:36:20 pm

Mark,
Good advice from Peter. I will add what I can.
Assuming you coach is like mine (with a rear radiator):
There's a grill over the radiator that opens with a key.

Radiator level: look for sight glass and fill will be right above it. It's difficult to fill since it's so close to compartment ceiling - but just a standard radiator cap along with a plastic overflow tank on left. Don't use common anti-freeze. Needs to be low silicate with additives. You should change it when you get home. Search forum on subject - many posts on it. To make it easy you can just go to a Detroit Diesel dealer to get the right stuff. There's handy light mounted above the overflow tank incase you're checking these things at night.

Transmission dipstick is on upper left side of radiator. Transmission dipstick has instruction on it for how to check. Use dextron fluid. The dipstick hole is the fill hole for the transmission.

Engine dipstick is on middle left side of radiator. Do not overfill.

Engine Oil fill tube is on right side of radiator near top: 1-1/2" in diameter . It looks like it will be hard to access to fill but if you loosen the hose clamp it will pull out and rotate up making it easy (yes, this is by design but not obvious to causal observer).
Need to use only 40 weight oil - no longer carried by truck stops and your average auto parts stores. I use Chevron Delo 100 (not Delo 400) 40 weight and get it at a Chevron oil supplier. Chevron website has a "marketer" (supplier) locator. Can also use Shell Rotella 40T, but I believe the Chevron has better specs for 2 cycle Detroit's. Buy 6 gallons for an oil change and you will be left with a little less than a gallon to carry in the even you need to add some later. I've found flat land driving uses almost no oil but hard mountain driving will consume a little.

Power steering is tucked in to the far right: short dip stick and reservoir right there. Uses 15-40 motor oil - nothing special.

A note about your engine: It's all electronic control. You don't need to worry about being easy on the throttle. The computer will give the engine only the amount fuel it can use - just step on it to go. Some smoke when you hit the throttle is normal but should go away At 300 hp the only thing that might be taxed for these engines is the cooling system which is Foretravel designed and installed - not Detroit Diesel. It has protections built in that shut the engine down for low oil pressure, low coolant in the radiator, and high engine oil temperature. I'm told there is no protection for coolant temperature but I was added in later model years of 6V92s. Overheating is one thing you don't want to do on these engines. The dash temp gauge is the only indicator you have unless you get a device to directly read the engine computer (Silverleaf or VMS). It's not uncommon for these old coaches to get some contact resistance (dirty connections) in the electrical system (especially around the dash) and this can throw off the readings on the gauges -most noticable on the dash voltmeter. An IR non-contact temperature gun can help you determine if the engine is actually getting hot or if the gauge is just reading high. 210 F is the listed max. temp. for these engines. If climbing grades, down shifting and keeping the revs high will help keep it cooler.

Transmission is electronic control too. There is no "Park" just neutral. Put it in D and let it do all the decisions for shifting. Your transmission will (should) have a retarder for braking. There's a switch on the dash for it. Unless in icy conditions I have it on all the time. It will assist in breaking and will come on in proportion with the brake pressure. On long down grades it will heat the transmission up quickly and you need to keep your eye on the dash gauge. I keep mine under 260 F.

Re: Key for engine compartment door on 1989? (split from another topic)

Reply #2 – April 24, 2015, 07:09:20 am

Mark, when we bought our '89 four years ago the dealer replaced one of the engine compartment locks. If you end up drilling out the lock you might want to take a piece of wire to keep the door closed until you can replace the lock.

Re: Key for engine compartment door on 1989? (split from another topic)

Reply #3 – April 24, 2015, 08:19:18 am

All of the older Grand Villa Unihome compartment keys are the same--- borrow one from someone with a similar coach and have copies made.

Re: Key for engine compartment door on 1989? (split from another topic)

Reply #4 – April 25, 2015, 12:52:49 am

ebay Trimark 911...
(most likely)

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