Skip to main content ↑ ↓
Topic: Unihome Construction vs Conventional chassis (Read 3449 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Unihome Construction vs Conventional chassis

Reply #25 –
Krush,

No, the slant style has almost nothing out front from where the front cap starts. That's why you can't walk out on the nose to change ICC bulbs. If you look with a mirror and a strong flashlight, you can see there is nothing but spray insulation from where the front cap starts in the ceiling. I put a blanket out there and crawl on my belly like a reptile.

The windshield area is very unstable with creaking, the glass moving and even breaking when making a transition from one surface to another. I build a ramp from where our driveway goes out to a parking spot to ease the transition. Sure would be nice not to have to worry about the windshields.

You can reinforce the wood where it rots just below the windshield but it should have had several steel hoops at different levels out front.

No matter what kind of road, my old 4107 never even creaked.

I don't worry too much as we are feet above most traffic. Will take my chances otherwise. Most SOBs have a lot more problems than this.

Pierce
Pierce and Gaylie Stewart
'93 U300/36 WTBI
Detroit 6V-92TA Jake
1140 watts on the roof
SBFD (ret)

Re: Unihome Construction vs Conventional chassis

Reply #26 –
If the front cap on a Unicoach flexes when you push on it, it is delaminates from the plywood support bulkheads behind it!  The glue / epoxy that Foretravel used to attach the front cap to the bulkheads was not a fully waterproof glue.  If you get leaks in the front clearance lights or the the roof the water runs down the front cap and over time will cause the glue to let go and possibly rot the front edge of the bulkheads.  You can tell this has happened by pushing on the front cap just below the windshield-- if it flexes, it is delaminated.  The good news is that it is not very difficult to repair.  There are two horizontal 3/4" plywood bulkheads, one running just above the windshield and one just below the windshield.  Foretravel's repair method is to remove the windshields to access the bulkheads and to use the same glue that was used originally and clamp until cured, then reinstall the windshield. The estimated 14 hours to do the job.

I know all this because when I bought my coach it had this problem.  The delamination does not really cause any problem except windshield gasket leaks from the flexing, but it is unnerving to see it move when a big truck passes!  I elected to repair mine myself since my labor rate is a lot less expensive than Foretravel's.  I did not remove the windshields, but did lift the dash cover.  What lies below is the lower bulkhead.  In my case I did have some minor rot, so removed that portion of the bulkhead (assisted by a sawsall) and replace with new marine plywood.  There is steel tube structural support Below the bulkhead.  I then cleaned up the old glue and rebonded the front cap to the bulkhead with 3M 5200 waterproof adhesive.  In lieu of clamping I  drilled 6, 1/4" holes through the front cap and installed 3" stainless steel #12 flat head wood screws with trim to pull the front cap to the bulkhead.  My intention was to leave the screws only 7 days until the 5200 had cured, however they looked good enough that I elected to leave them there for extra support.
Problem solved--- 3 hours and $30 worth of adhesive plus a little plywood.  No more flexing.
Current coach 1996 U320 40'
Previous coach, 1990 36' U280

Re: Unihome Construction vs Conventional chassis

Reply #27 –
I for one, would love to see some pictures of the process... maybe you already posted them in a thread, but I couldn't find it with a quick search.
Don

Quote from: Kemahjohn –
"...I elected to repair mine myself since my labor rate is a lot less expensive than Foretravel's.  I did not remove the windshields, but did lift the dash cover.  What lies below is the lower bulkhead.  In my case I did have some minor rot, so removed that portion of the bulkhead (assisted by a sawsall) and replace with new marine plywood.  There is steel tube structural support Below the bulkhead.  I then cleaned up the old glue and rebonded the front cap to the bulkhead with 3M 5200 waterproof adhesive.  In lieu of clamping I  drilled 6, 1/4" holes through the front cap and installed 3" stainless steel #12 flat head wood screws with trim to pull the front cap to the bulkhead.  My intention was to leave the screws only 7 days until the 5200 had cured, however they looked good enough that I elected to leave them there for extra support.
Problem solved--- 3 hours and $30 worth of adhesive plus a little plywood.  No more flexing.
The selected media item is not currently available.
Don & Tys
1999 U270 3602 WTFE #5402
Xtreme Stage 1 w/Headlight, Step Conversion, etc.
2009 Honda Fit Sport with Navi
Freedom is NOT "just another word for nothing left to lose"... with apologies to Kris Kristofferson

Re: Unihome Construction vs Conventional chassis

Reply #28 –
I just saw the pictures of a Allegro that had a front tire blow out.  The people are in the ICU and the coach came apart. It did not look like it rolled over but it went in a ditch.
2025 Wanderbox Outpost 32 on F600 Expedition Motorhome
2015 Born Free Royal Splendor on Ford 550 nonslide version  for sale
Former Coaches  covering. 360,000 miles
1999 34 U270
2000 36 U320
2001 42' double slide U320
2018 Jeep Rubicon

Re: Unihome Construction vs Conventional chassis

Reply #29 –
I did not post any pictures, however if I remember correctly, I did take some.  I will find and post what I have.  I really like the 5200 for this application--waterproof, flexible and a very strong adhesion to wood and fiberglass.  I did the repair a year ago and it is holding up perfectively.
Current coach 1996 U320 40'
Previous coach, 1990 36' U280

Re: Unihome Construction vs Conventional chassis

Reply #30 –
After driving countless FTX's and grand villas and unihomes when at Foretravel and an avid off roader dry camper then I can tell the unicoach is considerable more reinforced in the front cap area and the whole body was reinforced

Probably needed for  the torque of the bigger engines in them.

I have seen sidewalls flex from engine torque on other brands long ago. And delam from it.

Required reinforcing the frame rails on some chassis for the high torque versions.

Versus damage the less strong coaches body shell. 
"Riding and rejoicing"
Bob
1997 U320 40' Mid entry, build 5132,  wtbi ce27, 4th owner
2007 Solara convertible
2 prodeco tech outlaw ss electric bikes

1095 watts solar
08 Ls 460 and a sc430
2000 Ford F-250 superduty 4x4

Re: Unihome Construction vs Conventional chassis

Reply #31 –
Quote from: Don & Tys (AKA acousticart) –
I for one, would love to see some pictures of the process... maybe you already posted them in a thread, but I couldn't find it with a quick search.
Don


I did some digging and found the thread I started when I had the same problem. I replaced the plywood bulkhead at the base of the windshield and took a few pix..
looking for advice from the experts
Jay
1989 U280 SE, 36', 3208T Cat, build 3292

Re: Unihome Construction vs Conventional chassis

Reply #32 –
This is what the framing in our coach looks like

Re: Unihome Construction vs Conventional chassis

Reply #33 –
Great pictures! I have never seen the sides on ours outlined that clearly, though the roof shows up very clearly... or did before the solar panels went up!
Don
Quote from: piku –
This is what the framing in our coach looks like
The selected media item is not currently available.
Don & Tys
1999 U270 3602 WTFE #5402
Xtreme Stage 1 w/Headlight, Step Conversion, etc.
2009 Honda Fit Sport with Navi
Freedom is NOT "just another word for nothing left to lose"... with apologies to Kris Kristofferson

Re: Unihome Construction vs Conventional chassis

Reply #34 –
Quote from: Don & Tys (AKA acousticart) –
Great pictures! I have never seen the sides on ours outlined that clearly, though the roof shows up very clearly... or did before the solar panels went up!
Don

Interestingly our roof stays cleaner where the aluminum is underneath.  I was always curious of the mechanism that would cause that.
 

Re: Unihome Construction vs Conventional chassis

Reply #35 –
Quote from: piku –
Interestingly our roof stays cleaner where the aluminum is underneath.  I was always curious of the mechanism that would cause that.
Easy, condensation covers part of the roof (or sides) when the temp drops to the dew point but where the aluminum is below, it stays warmer transferring the heat up through the aluminum from the coach interior so no condensation (it stays above the dew point). The condensation allows the dust/dirt in the air to stick to it and when the moisture evaporates, it is dirtier that the roof area with the aluminum under it.

Pierce
Pierce and Gaylie Stewart
'93 U300/36 WTBI
Detroit 6V-92TA Jake
1140 watts on the roof
SBFD (ret)