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Topic: Cabinet LED project (Read 640 times) previous topic - next topic

Cabinet LED project

I thought that some of you might be interested in my current project of LED lighting my cabinet drawers. I have just started in the kitchen area where most of the drawers happen to be. I have the curb side cabinets in place of the table and chairs. At times I got really frustrated trying to find things in the drawers even though it might be sunny out, coming in and your eyes are not easily adjusting to the darkness of the drawers. Yes, old age is a factor too but non-the-less I wanted to find what I was looking for and it was like looking into a black hole. So my answer was a continuation of what many have done already in a lot of their coaches with LEDs. I just put micro-switches on all the drawers and cabinet doors for on/off functionality, and from the main power source I put a dimmer switch to adjust the intensity of light, (daylight strips 60 units per meter 5050 LE Lampux, Amazon) that also gives an On/Off function as well for working on or adding to. The power draw was not of any concern considering that the drawer is open for only seconds to hardly more than a few minutes. The length of the strip was only dictated by the width of the drawer or cabinet opening which most drawers are in the 11" strip length. Yes, there is a fair amount of wiring and use of terminal blocks but the price is really minuscule if you choose your parts wisely. It does take time to tin the ends of all the wires first and to get the lengths proper so the wires can be tied out of the way of the moving drawers. The micro-switches were purchased from Lee Valley for about $2.50 cdn each and I bought about 24 thinking that I would always find a use for the extras.

Microswitch for LED Lighting 00U46.03
http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=74353&cat=53&ap=1

Dimmer Switch:
LED Light Protect Lamps Strip Dimmer Adjustable Bright Controller 12V 24V 8A...

The terminal blocks came from Amazon.com in packs of 5 - 12 blocks and I bought 2 of each size giving me more than enough to do what I need.

5Pcs 2 Rows 12P Wire Connector Screw Terminal Barrier Block 300V 20A,
Amazon.com: 5Pcs 2 Rows 12P Wire Connector Screw Terminal Barrier Block 300V...
5 Pcs X3-0512 400V 5A 12 Position 2 Row Plastic Screw Terminal Block
Amazon.com: 5 Pcs X3-0512 400V 5A 12 Position 2 Row Plastic Screw Terminal...

The extra small size can be really a blessing as the openings are the same for each one and it will take 2 to 3 tinned 18 ga wires if you are careful in the soldering department not to overload. It would never reach the amp rating for the mini block in any case. I would use a #3 x 3/4" brass wood screw, pre-drilled hole, to fasten to cabinet structure out of the way. I mounted the LED strips to 3/4"x3/4" aluminum angle and soldered the wires directly to the strips. I just happened to have a large quantity of angle on hand so that was easy but I did buy more for that later addition of the bay LED strips. Also, I put LEDs in the refrigerator, sorry no pics yet as I forgot to get that one today but will post next week. One thing on the refrigerator strip, as most have had problems with strip not adhering properly and add in the cold I use high quality double sided foam tape in between the refer and the LED strip. I could lay out 3 strips side by side on the double sided tape and use a scalpel to cut off what was not necessary.

If you have any questions or suggestions I will be happy to respond. I have a long ways to go but the end result should be good as well as fun.

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John Smith
1994 U280 36' John, Pauline, & Marley Cat
2010 Ford Fusion

Re: Cabinet LED project

Reply #1 –
Wow Parati that's a great project.  All I did was install my new TPMS system. I feel so inadequate. LOL :headwall: 
2002 U320 40Ft  MC # 15759
Coach # 5995
Previous coaches
2002 U320 coach  #5941
1996 U270 coach #4808

Re: Cabinet LED project

Reply #2 –
Thanks guys for all the likes and kind comments. Really, it is no big deal but just a nice to have that is different but becoming more common in sticks and bricks structures. All of what I have done was spurred on by those on this site who gave me the ideas and skills to help me feel more self assured in what I was doing. Coming from an Instrumentation design background years back I understand a lot of it but with my advancing years I lost a lot of "I can do it thinking". All of you in your own way have helped me regain my belief that I can do it myself again. Thank you all for that and I hope that I can see it all to the end without stepping in something. I did find out that my cooling unit in my refer did bite the dust so another is on order for replacement. That, to me, is worse than doing all the wiring but I'll going to do it anyway just to keep the old girl going strong. Thanks again for all the previous posts that have helped me so much in my love of things "Better built and old". I have a garage of antique machinery that I still use to this day with some much older than I.

Thanks,
John
John Smith
1994 U280 36' John, Pauline, & Marley Cat
2010 Ford Fusion

Re: Cabinet LED project

Reply #3 –
John,
 
The ninth of your ten pictures (# ...3356) is the only one that shows the light assembly. Unfortunately, the light is too bright to see how it is put together.
 
Could you please take another picture of that one, cheating the micro switch, so the light does not come on?
 
Thanks,
 
Trent
Trent and Jean Eyler
2000  U295  4003  WTFE  ISC  350
Build#5603 MC#17385

Re: Cabinet LED project

Reply #4 –
Quote from: TulsaTrent –
John,
 
The ninth of your ten pictures (# ...3356) is the only one that shows the light assembly. Unfortunately, the light is too bright to see how it is put together.
 
Could you please take another picture of that one, cheating the micro switch, so the light does not come on?
 
Thanks,
 
Trent

Trent was so kind to point out to me that I missed showing the detail of assembly on the light fixture for the drawers. I stopped by the coach today for a few minutes and took the time to do another drawer that was waiting to be done and photograph the process up to the point of installing the light fixture but not hooking it up yet as I ran out of time.

The LED tape is stuck on using it's own tape to the aluminum but using the  added 1" dia. x 3/8" wide clear shrink tubing every 3 to 4 inches between diodes. As you can see that it is a clean way of doing it and if you need to remove and redo it is easily done by cutting and putting new pieces on and heat shrinking them. Cost is a few cents more but makes the job go quickly as you don't have to wait for the silicone to set up. If you place the LED tape on the inside then you would have to use the silicone method which in some cases I will have to do. The trick is trying not to mount the aluminum with LEDs proud of the rail, mount it recessed where the LED's will not get accidentally knocked. If I were to rethink my fasteners I would use Robertson screws, square socket head, instead of the SS Teck screws as the SS Teck do not offer really enough purchase on the head with a socket in a blind application. Robertson head is a more positive way and much faster without slipping off the head constantly.

In the soldering department I used all 18 ga wire and put 3mm shrink tubing over the exposed area as much as possible and then used a wider piece of clear 1" dia. shrink tube about 1" wide to cover the entire connection and to hold the ends tight to the aluminum. The black (negative) goes directly to the terminal block grounding lug and the red lead (positive) gets the female spade fitting crimped on for the micro-switch which in turn goes to the terminal block connection inside the cabinet and then to the Dimmer/ON/OFF switch. In this case the Dimmer is mounted under the sink area for easy access as this drawer shown was directly above the Ice Maker. I hope this sheds more light on any questions that anyone may have.
John Smith
1994 U280 36' John, Pauline, & Marley Cat
2010 Ford Fusion

Re: Cabinet LED project

Reply #5 –
[split this great project into its own thread - Michelle]
Learn every day, but especially from the experiences of others. It's cheaper!  - John C. Bogle

2000 U320 36' non-slide / WildEBeest Rescue
2003 U320

Re: Cabinet LED project

Reply #6 –
Well now that reminds me. You guys with the 280's-300's (or anybody else) know that electric outlet under the kitchen table? Well every time I go to plug something into that outlet I have to get a flashlight just so I can see it.

Not anymore. I velcro'd one of these bad boys to the under side of the table. Problem solved.

http://www.flashingpanda.com/Item.asp?id=821&utm_source=Google%20Ad%20Services&utm_medium=Products%20Ad&utm_campaign=75C&utm_term=60086624445&adposition=1o1&gclid=CjwKEAjwrcC9BRC2v5rjyvSbhWASJACKkjDz84tsbwcOEEej3MC3G8PyvArM4pbCj_8y3a_GsqFH9xoCSJLw_wcB
1994 U280, Build 4490
Deming, NM.

Re: Cabinet LED project

Reply #7 –

Nice job John.  It is a good idea.  I have all of the overheads illuminated too.  I have been using 20 or 22 ga paired wire. They are plenty big for the small loads.  And they are easier to attach to the cabinet frame.  You can get cable clamps in any size. 1/8" works fine for this size wire. 1/4" is a bit sloppy.

Like you did, soldering is a better connection than the crimp on connectors. When you mount the steips on aluminum it is possible that the connection spots on the back side can short out especially where you have soldered. Heat shrink tube there is a good idea too.

WYZM 20m 66ft 20awg Gauce Black and Red Extension Cable Wire Cord for Led...

Amazon.com: 1/8 Inch UV Black Cable Clamp - 100 Pack: Home Improvement

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Roger Engdahl and Susan Green
2001 U320 3610 #5879 (Home2) - 2014 Jeep Cherokee or 2018 F150
Hastings, MN
 

Re: Cabinet LED project

Reply #8 –

Thanks Roger, for the great advice! You are correct about the shrinking the ends where you have soldered. I had forgotten that one on the last strip as I was pushed for time, but I can still redo easily as it is not complete yet. I do have the UV cable clamps in both black and the white. I have saved my paired cable runs for the long ones. On the drawers most are very short runs of less than a foot and the positive and negatives not always going to the same location. You are very right in the 20 ga. paired wires and was looking for a smaller cable as the 18 ga seems to be a little tuff to work in close quarters. I just used what was recommended by Lee Valley even though I knew it was overkill on short strips.

I do have a lot to do yet and will be taking any helpful advice I can get, so thanks again Roger. I'm saving the overheads for last as they have to be kitty proof as all my overheads with tambored doors are fair game for him to open and hide. In saying that, like yours I'll probably have to put them in the aluminum angle runs with covers,

Amazon.com: LEDwholesalers Aluminum Channel System with Cover, End Caps, and...

Here are a few of the items I have on hand and tools that I'm using at the coach.

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John Smith
1994 U280 36' John, Pauline, & Marley Cat
2010 Ford Fusion