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Topic: Running AutoStart Wires on a '95 320 (Read 429 times) previous topic - next topic

Running AutoStart Wires on a '95 320

My hunt in the auto-start for my genset began after the Res Refer install a few months back. I plan to contract "Texas Mobile Power" out of Elgin, TX to install the device. Here's my question:

What's the best, clean way to make the wire run from the GenSet to the Battery bay, driver side, aft tire? And up to the cab?

Thanks. Paul

Paul & Kathleen
1995 U320c SE 40'
Build 4681 --Cummins M11 /17511
"That Irish Girl"
Red MINI " 40"

Re: Running AutoStart Wires on a '95 320

Reply #1 –
Magnum Energy's generator auto-start does not need any wires run.  It mounts on dash, connects to our manual start/stop switch and running light.  We did the installation ourselves.  Our coach did not come with an auto start module, but others have added the Magnum unit to replace a failed factory module or to also have autostart on high interior temps.  Works great for us.

As to running wires:
Battery - If your coach has a couch behind driver, drill hole up from house battery bay to under couch, run wires behind side dash panel to front dash.
Generator - Run wires down forward street-side corner where factory has a wire run, from there snake to back of generator box, into box allowing slack for pulling out generator slide.  Keep in mind several wire connections needed to pre-heat, start, stop are probably already at dash manual switches.

Re: Running AutoStart Wires on a '95 320

Reply #2 –
I'm about to install the ME-AGS-N autostart on my '97 this weekend so I've been considering the same question.  I haven't decided exactly where to locate the module yet so I don't have a definitive answer question but I would offer a clarification.  I think that the advice from Barry is right on target for the standalone AGS from Magnum.  If that's what you have then you may be able to do the entire install from inside the dash.  If you have a Magnum inverter with the Battery Monitor Kit and the Remote panel, you can use the network version (me-ags-N) and you will not need to install anything inside the coach other than the temp probe.  The generator start and run sense wires can go directly to the generator (or to the dash switch if that's easier) and a telephone wire goes between the AGS and the inverter.  That phone cable can also be tied in at the BMK module with a splitter, which means you don't have to run that wire if you co-locate those modules.  If you have the Remote & BMK, you gain some features like digital control interface & ability to autostart based on battery state of charge, which is generally more desirable than voltage alone.
 

Re: Running AutoStart Wires on a '95 320

Reply #3 –
Quote from: Old Knucklehead –
My hunt in the auto-start for my genset began after the Res Refer install a few months back. I plan to contract "Texas Mobile Power" out of Elgin, TX to install the device. Here's my question:

What's the best, clean way to make the wire run from the GenSet to the Battery bay, driver side, aft tire? And up to the cab?

Thanks. Paul




Paul, I completed my Magnum AGS install this weekend.  It proved more difficult to route the wires than I had hoped.  Keep in mind that I'm working with a 97, U295 so yours might be different.  If it doesn't work for you, this might be useful to someone else with the same configuration.  Sorry I didn't take any pictures but here's what I did. 

I installed the control module under the dash and wired all 8 wires on its terminal block to the switches and power connections that were available there.  If you have a standalone AGS then that might be all you need to do.  I had to run an additional wire in order for the networked AGS to communicate with the inverter, battery monitor kit & remote panel.  I couldn't find an easy route for this wire.  What I did was run the wire from the dash, down the drivers side, under the switch panel, behind the couch and then down into the battery bay.  This required drilling a couple of holes large enough for a pull wire and the end of a phone cord.  From there it was an easy run directly into my inverter bay.  I'm sure there may be a better way but it's done and it works!