Skip to main content ↑ ↓
Topic: 8.2 DD won't start (Read 1428 times) previous topic - next topic

8.2 DD won't start

Gauges light up and needles go to position.
Batteries, both start and 8D are fully charged.
Turn key to start position and--nothing.
Checked shifter location and IS in neutral.
Engine started just fine when we got it out of storage, Started just fine twice here in our driveway.
Put in the 8D battery and hooked it up but heard a "ticking" sound until hooked up.
Now, lights, action, but no starter noise.

Re: 8.2 DD won't start

Reply #1 –
Does your coach have the switch in the engine compartment? My '81 had to have that switch on to start.

Re: 8.2 DD won't start

Reply #2 –
Never saw a switch in the engine compartment.
I understand there is a resetable breaker inside the driver's side frame rail, just behind the rear axle

Re: 8.2 DD won't start

Reply #3 –
Can you bump the starter with a screwdriver, that might lead you to a different problems?

Re: 8.2 DD won't start

Reply #4 –
Does your coach have the AUX START SOL on the isolator panel?

If so, and if it is "stuck" (does not close) a light rap with a hammer might free it up.

Re: 8.2 DD won't start

Reply #5 –
Nope. What/where would an isolator panel be, if we had one?

Re: 8.2 DD won't start

Reply #6 –
Quote from: nitehawk –
Nope. What/where would an isolator panel be, if we had one?
Look on your Automotive Wiring Diagram B-2126, lower left corner.

My diagram says it is for U-280 and U-300, so I don't know if your '89 ORED with DD would have the same electrical layout.

My panel is located under the coach, behind the driver side rear wheels.  It contains the battery isolator and two solenoids (AUX START and BOOST) plus several circuit breakers and relays.

Re: 8.2 DD won't start

Reply #7 –
The starting sequence for my coach requires the following items to function properly.  I don't know if your coach, being older with different chassis and engine, works the same way.  On my coach, if any one of the items listed below were to fail, I would have a NO-CRANK situation.  This would be true even if all my batteries were fully charged.

1.  Ignition switch

2.  Neutral safety switch (or relay).

3.  Aux Start Solenoid

4.  Starter Solenoid

Re: 8.2 DD won't start

Reply #8 –
Haven't done anything yet.
Been raining off & on.
Trying to get lawn in shape.
And now that we finally got our 17.5HP Craftsman lawn tractor back after having the camshaft replaced something else has come loose in the engine. Got spark, got gas, got cranking but no running.
Leafblower won't start, coach won't start, tractor(s) won't start, and I won't start!!

Re: 8.2 DD won't start

Reply #9 –
Today, rain and hot and humid--92 degrees.
This morning we bought a new 17.5HP vertical shaft B&S engine. I removed and installed the new engine and then mowed front and back yards before supper.
Tomorrow the east yard and trimming, weather permitting.

Re: 8.2 DD won't start

Reply #10 –
Well, I found out why the coach won't start.
Turns out that the wire in the solenoid end of the bendix is broken off the negative bolt under the plastic cap so no circuit completion.
Got it out and took the solenoid end apart and it looked like I could rotate the positive bolt 180 degrees and flip the contact disc and then I noticed the rigid wire sticking up and the only place it could connect to was the thin metal clip that went around the negative bolt head. Problem is--the clip was broken into three pieces.
Off to the auto parts store to see about a new bendix.
Amazing!! Only 31 years old and now things start failing!! Bet the warranty has run out. :))
In case anyone is interested the bendix has 1115593 part number stamped on the housing and it is a Delco Remy 12V
 

Re: 8.2 DD won't start

Reply #11 –
Determined what was bad by going thru a few steps:
1. using my 12V probe light I was able to verify that I had "juice" on the output side of the ignition switch when I turned the switch on.
2. Using my 12V probe light I was able to verify that I had 12V at the solenoid and then when Mary turned the ignition key to start I had "juice" at the input cable on the solenoid, but no start.
3. Had Mary hold the ignition key over to start and I tapped the metal housing of the solenoid (percussion persuasion) lightly with a ball peen hammer. WOW!! Scared the crap out of me!! Engine fired right up.
4. Had Mary turn off the ignition switch and then try to start the engine. No luck, so I knew I had found my problem.
5. Napa replacement: $42.54 (tax incl) and delivery Monday.
O'reilly's or Auto Zone--$107 plus tax.