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Topic: Boost Solenoid Replacement (Read 1339 times) previous topic - next topic

Boost Solenoid Replacement

I need to replace the boost solenoid and after reading numerous posts via the search function I guess this is what I need,  thanks to Pierce Stewart;
Amazon.com: Cole Hersee 24213 12V 200A Continuous Solenoid: Automotive

Is the Cole-Hersee 24213 the correct solenoid for my coach?

Re: Boost Solenoid Replacement

Reply #1 –
Quote from: Travelin' Man –
Is the Cole-Hersee 24213 the correct solenoid for my coach?
The Cole-Hersee 24213 will perform admirably as a boost solenoid.  It meets the two requirements: sufficient amp capacity, and it is "continuous duty" rated.  It may not be exactly the same as the one now in place on your coach.  Look at your old solenoid (lift bed, should be on the forward engine compartment wall, next to isolator).  If old one has 4 terminals (2 big, 2 smaller), then the 24213 will be a direct bolt-in replacement.
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: Boost Solenoid Replacement

Reply #2 –
And, if your current boost solenoid only has the two large lugs and ONE small one, that new one will work as well.  Just have to run a small-gauge wire from the second small terminal on the new solenoid to any metal (ground) on the coach.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Boost Solenoid Replacement

Reply #3 –
I recently installed that solenoid in my coach, along with three relays on the same panel.  It solved my problems with charging the starting batteries and allowing me to use the house batteries to help start the coach.  In short, it works well and appears identical in size, etc.
I paid a little over $46 on Amazon.
While you are at it, you should clean all your terminals on the panel, including the ground strap.
2000 U320 mid entry  #5688
2006 Jeep Liberty


USMCR retired
SDFD retired
FEMA US&R TF8

Re: Boost Solenoid Replacement

Reply #4 –
hmmmm.
.tightened up loose connections at isolator,and boost solenoid , and the closest relay... now have power at the dash & the boost will "click"....
 but... doesn't seem to be charging the chassis batteries with either the shore power or gennie... altho house batteries are showing as being in float...... a relay or 3 bad?
 house & chassis batteries are less than a year old..
I do not have circuit or voltage test equipment after a very bad experience with wiring on a '57 'vette that because of my not knowing electrical.... burnt up
'02 40' U320t  4010WTFS Build 6036 1 slide
Motorcade # 17841
SKP 151920
Retired truck driver
 5 million miler
Still have itchy feet for travel

Re: Boost Solenoid Replacement

Reply #5 –
Quote from: saddlesore –
...the boost will "click"...but...doesn't seem to be charging the chassis batteries with either the shore power or gennie...
If you don't have a multimeter, or at the very least a 12 volt test light, your trouble shooting efforts will be severely handicapped.

If the coach (house) battery bank is fully charged, and we assume your boost solenoid is functional, then I suggest the following test utilizing the dash voltmeter.  With shore power and generator "off", check, clean and tighten the connections at both ends of the cable going from the boost solenoid to chassis battery bank.  Then, with engine "off" and boost switch "off", turn on your headlights for a few minutes.  This will lower the dash voltmeter reading (chassis battery bank).  Then, watching the dash voltmeter, turn the boost switch "on".  You should see the voltmeter jump up slightly.  If it does, your boost switch is working, and the chassis batteries should charge when on shore power or generator.
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: Boost Solenoid Replacement

Reply #6 –
OK thnx..
'02 40' U320t  4010WTFS Build 6036 1 slide
Motorcade # 17841
SKP 151920
Retired truck driver
 5 million miler
Still have itchy feet for travel

Re: Boost Solenoid Replacement

Reply #7 –
T-man, thanks for the pat on the back!

The first step in troubleshooting your electrical system is blowing up your schematics, either from your manual or on this site. Take the schematic to a print shop and have them enlarge it to as large as possible. Then buy a mailing tube to store it in. I'm still thanking Bill Chaplin for the set he brought us when they visited years ago.

You can then study by comparing your electrical panels to the ones in the schematic. Takes a bit to get used to but the more you look at it, the easier it becomes. The larger size magically simplifies all the codes, wire routes, components.

Yes, you need both a good multimeter and a 12V test light. Some basic tools, a labeling machine and the camera from your smart phone and you are ready to go. When you hear the solenoid "click", it should allow the current to flow from the large terminal that's always hot to the other large terminal. Once you have your meter/test light, it's easy to see if it's working.

Our 12V system was a mess when we purchased ours. The owner had replaced the battery isolator and once the wires were removed, could not remember how they went back on. The batteries were all tied together, the isolator didn't work plus the panel was in a terrible place under the coach so it had a bit of rust.

Once you can match the wires on the panel with the wires on the schematic, use the label machine to identify them and then photo the whole thing before you start working on it. It took me several hours to figure things out and trace the wires. I try to photo everything before I take things apart.

The Cole-Hersee web site is the best place to check first to make sure the solenoid has not been replaced with an updated model.  Then, purchase it online or from a NAPA/autoparts store.

While the 24213 is rated continuous duty, it generates heat when in use. I don't recommend keeping it on while in storage to maintain the engine batteries when plugged into shore power. Use a trickle charger instead.  If you lose shore power with the boost solenoid on, the batteries will be flattened over a fairly short period of time. The solenoid then becomes a "resistance heater". Batteries don't like a full discharge and may not come back.

Pierce

Pierce and Gaylie Stewart
'93 U300/36 WTBI
Detroit 6V-92TA Jake
1140 watts on the roof
SBFD (ret)
 

Re: Boost Solenoid Replacement

Reply #8 –
Update... found another 3 connections that were loose, tightened them and now charging better than ever.
'02 40' U320t  4010WTFS Build 6036 1 slide
Motorcade # 17841
SKP 151920
Retired truck driver
 5 million miler
Still have itchy feet for travel