Skip to main content ↑ ↓
Topic: Question on Dash Electrical Component (Read 503 times) previous topic - next topic

Question on Dash Electrical Component

I think all of this is related.
* Coming home from a trip, just as we were about to enter our driveway, the Allison would not shift and displayed something other than the selected gear. Turned it off, fixed it and did it again on the next opportunity to shift. Turned it off and it shifted.
* Noticed at idle a few days before that the dash voltage meter went to zero twice. I didn't notice the other gauges behavior. Engine continued to run.

BACKGROUND
Since I got this coach, when driving, the parking brake light or oil pressure light will partially illuminate and the beeper will sound very weekly. Inconsistent and I haven't been able to relate to anything. (finally cut the beeper wire for some peace)

For some reason, the gauges in this coach were replaced 15 years ago. There's no evidence of fire. The cruise was rewired with an "extra" also for unknown reason. The wire to the "shut engine down" light was butt spliced and subsequently snipped.

Anyhow, I'm determined to get it figured out and am working on it. Right now I am replacing the ignition switch and the start solenoid (Blue Sea from experience) and checking all grounds and looking for anything that might be incorrect. I have the schematics.

Finally, to get to my question. There are two of these 3" deals in the dash wiring. I can see copper wire at the end of each where they have been snipped. One goes from a relay to a terminal on the tach and spliced there to one of the speedometer gauge lights. The other goes to the trans temp gauge light. What the heck are these things? Thanks.
jor

93 225
95 300
97 270
99 320

Re: Question on Dash Electrical Component

Reply #1 –
First I would check that you have full voltage all the time at the dash.  I had weird problems and it was a corroded connection at the engine start batteries.  Next make sure that your grounds are good.  Sounds like the common feed or ground is bad.

Can't help with snipped wires though.

Keith
Keith, Joyce & Smokey the Australian Cattle Dog
1995 U320 SE Extreme 40' WTBI Build # 4780, with a Honda CR-V hopefully still following behind.
Motorcade # 17030
FMCA # F422159

Re: Question on Dash Electrical Component

Reply #2 –
Quote
First I would check that you have full voltage all the time at the dash.
Thanks. Yea, I've got good voltage and have been chasing grounds since the beginning. I reattached the snipped engine shutdown wire and I've cleaned and tightened most of the grounds (except the main bundle at the starter - have to do that). The new ignition switch seems to have cured the shift issue noted in my post and the new start solenoid assures me that that part of the system is good.

I've replaced the start batteries and cleaned up all of the connections. Also added an extra ground there. I replaced all the inverter to coach batts and batt to batt cabling also. So... now I know I'm good at the batts, good at the ignition and good at the start solenoid. Who knows, maybe it's fixed!

Now if I could only figure out what those weird wiring bundles are???
jor
93 225
95 300
97 270
99 320

Re: Question on Dash Electrical Component

Reply #3 –
Is it possible these are some sort of shielding...the snipped end supposed to go to ground to eliminate electrical "noise"? 
Mike and Mari
'98  36 270 WTFE
Build #5272
Club #17504
 

Re: Question on Dash Electrical Component

Reply #4 –
Quote
some sort of shielding
As good an explanation as any. My other rigs which were essentially identical to this one did not have these things. I might give JamesT a call and send him a photo. It looks factory. Thanks.
jor
93 225
95 300
97 270
99 320