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Topic: How to remove Oatey air admittance valve? (Read 4805 times) previous topic - next topic

How to remove Oatey air admittance valve?

1998 U-320 with no slides.

I am trying to replace the Oatey in-line cheater vent/air admittance valves in our coach, but they won't budge by hand!  I don't want to break any pipes.  My wife's comment is, "I'd rather live with smell than delay the trip because you have to repair something."

Does the bottom threaded piece stay in the pipe stack meaning that you unscrew the top and put the new top on the old threaded base, or does the whole unit (threaded base) come out?

Any hints on how to remove these?



Thank you,
Chris

Re: How to remove Oatey air admittance valve?

Reply #1 –
Chris,
I used a pair of channel locks to grab them and break them loose.  It won't take much.  Then you can take them off by hand.  You won't break anything.  Just make sure you are grabbing the vent and not the pvc pipe.  The whole threaded unit like you see in your picture will come out.
John M
John & Carm Morales

"We travel not to go anywhere, but to just go.  We travel for travel's sake.  Our great desire is to move."

Re: How to remove Oatey air admittance valve?

Reply #2 –
Yes, that is the way IT SHOULD BE.

BUT (large BUT) it is possible that someone in the past used PVC cement on the threads.  If so, it will not come loose.

If that is the case, you can try to install new "guts" in the old fitting.

Another option is to cut off the pipe, and fit a new female threaded piece. Use a coupling and short piece of pipe if needed to gain the correct length/height.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: How to remove Oatey air admittance valve?

Reply #3 –
I  replaced mine with Studor brand It seems to be made better.jmo
91 GV U300 Unihome 40' Build 3811
6V92TA Detroit
 

Re: How to remove Oatey air admittance valve?

Reply #4 –
Thank you everyone!  Got the old ones out and the new ones put in.  I had to use a set of pliers.  Whoever installed them gorilla'd them in place.

I like the Studor brand too.  In this particular case cost and local availability won out.

Chris